STU #86 - 2006 Evo IX SE
#167
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
I think the hopping is a combination of all of the things you mentioned, including shocks. the hopping is worst when the shocks 'lock out' and force all the damping into the tires (which obviously doesn't work all that well), but with correctly setup shocks you can raise the spring rate threshold that the hopping starts.
I actually switched away from the ohlins to a set of cusco zero-3x that are rebuilt by Guy Ankeny at FRSport. very happy so far.
I actually switched away from the ohlins to a set of cusco zero-3x that are rebuilt by Guy Ankeny at FRSport. very happy so far.
I see what you're saying about the valving, definitely seems like its getting in the trickery to make it work with excessive spring rates though. Certainly beyond my ability to dial in.
I do think its sorta funny that everyone eventually gets to the point of hopping if they go far enough. Seems only a handful seem to find a way around it. Its definitely a pain in the butt when its happening though.
#173
Evolved Member
iTrader: (5)
https://www.maperformance.com/produc...vo-8-9-evo-o2e
Is that the right one?
Is that the right one?
#174
Evolving Member
Great topic by the way! I have the hopping issue but like others mentioned above I was running near full stiff up front and close to full stiff in the rear. I got some local guy advise to back out to a softer setting and for the most part it went away.. I see some of you guys run a complete different setup than me. One thing I need to try is to run softer settings on the autocross courses.
#175
I'll be interested to see what you find here - at 600/800 I found I was out of adjustments in Toledo other than jacking up the rear tire pressures. (which inspired me to go to 700/900) That was with -1.5 in the rear though, less probably would have been better. That was also on 245's.
https://www.maperformance.com/produc...vo-8-9-evo-o2e
Is that the right one?
https://www.maperformance.com/produc...vo-8-9-evo-o2e
Is that the right one?
yes, that is exactly what I mean. I've seen (and run) shocks with way too much low speed valving capability which tends to result in either running the shocks way too stiff or so open you don't have any lowspeed damping. both of which result in hopping.
Great topic by the way! I have the hopping issue but like others mentioned above I was running near full stiff up front and close to full stiff in the rear. I got some local guy advise to back out to a softer setting and for the most part it went away.. I see some of you guys run a complete different setup than me. One thing I need to try is to run softer settings on the autocross courses.
On the same note, I did Evo School Phase 1 this past weekend at Auto Club Speedway on the infield lot (Lot 7 I think) - car didn't hop, wondering if surface/grip levels are a variable in the hopping? I was also on some old (early 2016 build date) 265 RE71Rs. Also, highly recommend Phase 1 for anyone who's been on the fence about doing it
#176
Update time!
So after my last post, I ended up lowering the rear ride height a bit to get rid of the spring preload I had (forgot about this until I took time to look at it, added preload when I put these coilovers on because I thought it was too low in the rear at the time). This is what it looked like on course:
Yeah, almost the opposite of what it felt like 2 weeks before
I didn't know what was up with the car until about 2 weeks ago when I was working on the car....one of the bolts on my rear endlinks had come out so I was effectively running with no rear bar
During that time, I put on softer springs (600f/900r) and got the car realigned with a bit more negative camber in the rear (-1.7*) for the last event of the year (watch the outtakes):
Yeah, not exactly how I planned it would work out
After my first run, my friend Ben came up to me and said that the car wasn't picking up the inside rear wheel on right-handed sweepers but would pick it up a bunch in left-handed sweepers. I watched my co-driver's next 2 runs and it confirmed what he saw, plus it confirmed what I felt driving the car: it was very good at rotating when turning left, almost too loose (as you can see in the video), but was pushy when turning right. Not sure what the cause is, may be something I goofed when putting everything back together. Before I put things back together, I noticed the front left strut was leaking (front right leaked at Nats), decided to throw it back together anyways for the last event and just send it out afterwards since there's a 6 week break until next season.
So after my last post, I ended up lowering the rear ride height a bit to get rid of the spring preload I had (forgot about this until I took time to look at it, added preload when I put these coilovers on because I thought it was too low in the rear at the time). This is what it looked like on course:
Yeah, almost the opposite of what it felt like 2 weeks before
I didn't know what was up with the car until about 2 weeks ago when I was working on the car....one of the bolts on my rear endlinks had come out so I was effectively running with no rear bar
During that time, I put on softer springs (600f/900r) and got the car realigned with a bit more negative camber in the rear (-1.7*) for the last event of the year (watch the outtakes):
Yeah, not exactly how I planned it would work out
After my first run, my friend Ben came up to me and said that the car wasn't picking up the inside rear wheel on right-handed sweepers but would pick it up a bunch in left-handed sweepers. I watched my co-driver's next 2 runs and it confirmed what he saw, plus it confirmed what I felt driving the car: it was very good at rotating when turning left, almost too loose (as you can see in the video), but was pushy when turning right. Not sure what the cause is, may be something I goofed when putting everything back together. Before I put things back together, I noticed the front left strut was leaking (front right leaked at Nats), decided to throw it back together anyways for the last event and just send it out afterwards since there's a 6 week break until next season.
#178
Evolved Member
I would check sway bar pre-load first for the difference between left and right sweepers. If you have none, spring rates might be different regardless what is printed on them. Shock settings might affect this if nothing else works. Other than this, something is bent!
Good luck!
Good luck!
#180
What will I do in the meantime....
Good call, will add those on the list. Thanks
We have it pretty good here
I would check sway bar pre-load first for the difference between left and right sweepers. If you have none, spring rates might be different regardless what is printed on them. Shock settings might affect this if nothing else works. Other than this, something is bent!
Good luck!
Good luck!
Basically told him the same thing last night