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STU #86 - 2006 Evo IX SE

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Old Oct 28, 2017, 01:28 PM
  #166  
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Originally Posted by Jim3142
Marshall, when you say "correctly setup shocks", do you mean rebound/compression settings, valving, or something else?
yes, that is exactly what I mean. I've seen (and run) shocks with way too much low speed valving capability which tends to result in either running the shocks way too stiff or so open you don't have any lowspeed damping. both of which result in hopping.
Old Oct 28, 2017, 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by griceiv
I think the hopping is a combination of all of the things you mentioned, including shocks. the hopping is worst when the shocks 'lock out' and force all the damping into the tires (which obviously doesn't work all that well), but with correctly setup shocks you can raise the spring rate threshold that the hopping starts.

I actually switched away from the ohlins to a set of cusco zero-3x that are rebuilt by Guy Ankeny at FRSport. very happy so far.
Interesting, I didn't know Guy Ankeny was at FRSport now. Also interesting that you guys switched from the Flags since I know you've done quite a bit of valving work there.

I see what you're saying about the valving, definitely seems like its getting in the trickery to make it work with excessive spring rates though. Certainly beyond my ability to dial in.

I do think its sorta funny that everyone eventually gets to the point of hopping if they go far enough. Seems only a handful seem to find a way around it. Its definitely a pain in the butt when its happening though.
Old Oct 28, 2017, 06:12 PM
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could it at all be too much spring preload in the rear? spring won't then work until it's got weight beyond the preload x spring on it
Old Oct 29, 2017, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by kyoo
could it at all be too much spring preload in the rear? spring won't then work until it's got weight beyond the preload x spring on it
I don't run any preload on the springs (front or rear).
Old Oct 29, 2017, 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Dallas J
I see what you're saying about the valving, definitely seems like its getting in the trickery to make it work with excessive spring rates though. Certainly beyond my ability to dial in.
well the good news is FRSport has the 'trickery' already figured out, you just buy the shocks from them valved the same as ours and bolt them up.
Old Oct 29, 2017, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by griceiv
I don't run any preload on the springs (front or rear).
i thought you didn't have any hopping issues though -
Old Oct 29, 2017, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by kyoo
i thought you didn't have any hopping issues though -
I wish! I've fought with the hopping for years. the whole time with zero spring preload.
Old Oct 30, 2017, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Butt Dyno
Yeah that's the one, recirculated of course.
Old Oct 30, 2017, 07:44 PM
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Great topic by the way! I have the hopping issue but like others mentioned above I was running near full stiff up front and close to full stiff in the rear. I got some local guy advise to back out to a softer setting and for the most part it went away.. I see some of you guys run a complete different setup than me. One thing I need to try is to run softer settings on the autocross courses.
Old Oct 31, 2017, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Butt Dyno
I'll be interested to see what you find here - at 600/800 I found I was out of adjustments in Toledo other than jacking up the rear tire pressures. (which inspired me to go to 700/900) That was with -1.5 in the rear though, less probably would have been better. That was also on 245's.

https://www.maperformance.com/produc...vo-8-9-evo-o2e
Is that the right one?
I would probably drop down to 600/900 with the same bars that I have right now (stock front, WL 26 RSB), currently not maxing out the rear rebound (gets too loose in slaloms for my taste when I used to crank it up to 2-3 clicks from full stiff). The math says the roll rates would be more biased to the rear than they are now, though it would be softer all around. And yep, that's the downpipe (actually bought it off RJones ).


yes, that is exactly what I mean. I've seen (and run) shocks with way too much low speed valving capability which tends to result in either running the shocks way too stiff or so open you don't have any lowspeed damping. both of which result in hopping.
I'm running around the middle/stiffer side of things in terms of rebound on my shocks, will give softer settings a try this weekend to see how the car behaves.


Great topic by the way! I have the hopping issue but like others mentioned above I was running near full stiff up front and close to full stiff in the rear. I got some local guy advise to back out to a softer setting and for the most part it went away.. I see some of you guys run a complete different setup than me. One thing I need to try is to run softer settings on the autocross courses.
Yeah, going to try some things before I swap springs (cheaper that way :P) to reduce/eliminate the hopping. Last event of the year at Crows Landing so I'm hoping to make some headway on this


On the same note, I did Evo School Phase 1 this past weekend at Auto Club Speedway on the infield lot (Lot 7 I think) - car didn't hop, wondering if surface/grip levels are a variable in the hopping? I was also on some old (early 2016 build date) 265 RE71Rs. Also, highly recommend Phase 1 for anyone who's been on the fence about doing it
Old Dec 4, 2017, 09:41 PM
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Update time!


So after my last post, I ended up lowering the rear ride height a bit to get rid of the spring preload I had (forgot about this until I took time to look at it, added preload when I put these coilovers on because I thought it was too low in the rear at the time). This is what it looked like on course:


Yeah, almost the opposite of what it felt like 2 weeks before

I didn't know what was up with the car until about 2 weeks ago when I was working on the car....one of the bolts on my rear endlinks had come out so I was effectively running with no rear bar


During that time, I put on softer springs (600f/900r) and got the car realigned with a bit more negative camber in the rear (-1.7*) for the last event of the year (watch the outtakes):


Yeah, not exactly how I planned it would work out

After my first run, my friend Ben came up to me and said that the car wasn't picking up the inside rear wheel on right-handed sweepers but would pick it up a bunch in left-handed sweepers. I watched my co-driver's next 2 runs and it confirmed what he saw, plus it confirmed what I felt driving the car: it was very good at rotating when turning left, almost too loose (as you can see in the video), but was pushy when turning right. Not sure what the cause is, may be something I goofed when putting everything back together. Before I put things back together, I noticed the front left strut was leaking (front right leaked at Nats), decided to throw it back together anyways for the last event and just send it out afterwards since there's a 6 week break until next season.
Old Dec 5, 2017, 07:08 AM
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hope you figure that out.

6 week break until next season. you poor thing
Old Dec 5, 2017, 07:27 AM
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I would check sway bar pre-load first for the difference between left and right sweepers. If you have none, spring rates might be different regardless what is printed on them. Shock settings might affect this if nothing else works. Other than this, something is bent!

Good luck!
Old Dec 5, 2017, 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by kyoo
hope you figure that out.

6 week break until next season. you poor thing
Basically told him the same thing last night
Old Dec 6, 2017, 05:59 PM
  #180  
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Originally Posted by kyoo
hope you figure that out.

6 week break until next season. you poor thing
What will I do in the meantime....


I would check sway bar pre-load first for the difference between left and right sweepers. If you have none, spring rates might be different regardless what is printed on them. Shock settings might affect this if nothing else works. Other than this, something is bent!

Good luck!
Good call, will add those on the list. Thanks


Basically told him the same thing last night
We have it pretty good here


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