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Yeah well....just the thoughts of having to source and swap the drivetrain components plus all the extra parts that I have just purchased recently...lol
At least you can resell that stuff, so it wouldn't be a total loss
Originally Posted by Construct
My Evo is built very similar to Jim's list in the opening post. I'm on 12K/15K springs with slightly softer bars. I wouldn't say it's too twitchy on a road course, but I don't have enough experience to really know if I'm missing out over a softer setup. I drop my Tanabe RSB from the stiffest setting to the low setting for track days, which makes plenty of difference for me.
On the other hand, my setup is probably a bit of a compromise between all-out STU build (Jim's) and a road course build (10K/12K?) so maybe I'm missing out. Either way, it's a lot of fun to drive. 12K/15K on Ohlins is about the upper limit of what I could tolerate on the street, though.
I wouldn't say it's an all-out STU build as I've left a little on the table with power and weight reduction, probably something like 95% prep or whatever but it's definitely aimed towards autocross more than anything else. Currently no plans to track the Evo, so that makes it easier for me to focus the setup towards autocross
Originally Posted by Wanted EVO IX
Yes I know Marlon and TJ well. We are always battling locally, not in the same class but we are regulars. I was up against Bryan H's 350Z this past Sunday. Those guys did well in that car. I'm shocked to see them running the wheels they have and would consider a RPF1. They and I were on the Nexen at this event and mine are toast as a local and fellow Evo M member dual drove my car at the event to finish off my tires. I hope to hear more about your schedule and if I can attend one I would enjoy it a lot.
Yeah, those XXRs are fairly heavy but really cheap for an 18x11 (under $700 for a set if I remember right). One of our local clubs (American AutoX Series, aka AAS) has released their schedule for next year, all events are at Crows Landing: http://www.americanautox.com/schedule/
Originally Posted by kyoo
nexens last shorter than re71rs?
In my experience, the SUR4G doesn't last as long as the RE-71R. I've had 5 sets of SUR4Gs and the most runs I've gotten out of a set was about 80 - the best I got out of a set of RE-71Rs was 130 runs. Just my experience, YMMV and all of that.
Over the winter, I finally decided to address the lack of droop travel in the rear and get longer shock bodies:
I had around an inch of droop previously, these longer bodies should add about another inch. They also allow me to run a higher rear ride height without preloading the springs, ride comfort has gotten a lot better. Should be able to see how these affect the handling next weekend
Having droop travel definitely effects ride quality. I noticed that huge different going to a tender setup in the rear just to add room for the shock to sag. Its all in cutting out that shock of hitting full extension.
Also, now that you've got that extra inch, you should see if its worth flipping the arm or if what you have now is plenty.
interesting. i've added a ton of preload to the rears of my ohlins, maybe i should take some out and add back height by extending the rears. problem is i don't exactly know how much extension they have/have many threads is safe to run
Lookin good, Jimmy. Are you sticking with the same rates? What bars do you run?
Thanks Talha! So far, sticking with the same rates. I'll have a chance to try the car at a practice event in 2 weeks, hoping to see how it behaves at Crows Landing. I have an OEM FSB with the Cusco endlink brackets (set to full stiff) and a Whiteline 26mm RSB on full stiff.
Having droop travel definitely effects ride quality. I noticed that huge different going to a tender setup in the rear just to add room for the shock to sag. Its all in cutting out that shock of hitting full extension.
Also, now that you've got that extra inch, you should see if its worth flipping the arm or if what you have now is plenty.
Yeah, having droop travel and not preloading the rear springs definitely made a big impact in ride quality. I hope I have enough rear droop now, as I don't want to keep eating into the available compression travel I have left, but it's good to know that there's an extremely cheap solution to adding droop
interesting. i've added a ton of preload to the rears of my ohlins, maybe i should take some out and add back height by extending the rears. problem is i don't exactly know how much extension they have/have many threads is safe to run
Aren't you able to adjust the body length of the Ohlins without affecting spring preload?
First event with the longer rear shocks on the car, feels like I can get on the throttle sooner on exit and not have the inside wheel bounce/skip when it hits the ground. The surface was dry but had been rained on the previous few days (including that morning), will probably get a better idea of how the car feels once we have an event at Crows Landing (on 2/23-24).
Thanks Talha! So far, sticking with the same rates. I'll have a chance to try the car at a practice event in 2 weeks, hoping to see how it behaves at Crows Landing. I have an OEM FSB with the Cusco endlink brackets (set to full stiff) and a Whiteline 26mm RSB on full stiff.
Yeah, having droop travel and not preloading the rear springs definitely made a big impact in ride quality. I hope I have enough rear droop now, as I don't want to keep eating into the available compression travel I have left, but it's good to know that there's an extremely cheap solution to adding droop
Aren't you able to adjust the body length of the Ohlins without affecting spring preload?
yes, but i don't know how much i can add while still having a safe amount of thread left. technically i could take it off and see, unless anyone has measurements of how long the body is. ie if i take off an inch of preload, idk that i have an inch to give in thread left.
yes, but i don't know how much i can add while still having a safe amount of thread left. technically i could take it off and see, unless anyone has measurements of how long the body is. ie if i take off an inch of preload, idk that i have an inch to give in thread left.
Ahh, I see the issue you have. Have you thought about using shorter springs?
As for the windscreen kit, I wasn't able to find one on Amazon that works with the Hero Session, but thanks for the idea! I'll keep looking
EDIT: Found some that work with the Session, these things are pretty cheap lol
haven't considered that but i think the problem would be the same, height determined by preload rather than length of spring? i sent an email to ohlins, see how much length there is on the bottom perch that i could potentially use.
dude the windscreen is going to make things sound soooooo much better lol not to detract from your vid content but for real. it's amazing how well some of them work, it was night & day on my gpro between just hearing wind except for the occasional odd turn where the car blocked the wind. now you get pretty much the full exhaust, tire noise coming through. where is your camera mounted btw?
yes, but i don't know how much i can add while still having a safe amount of thread left. technically i could take it off and see, unless anyone has measurements of how long the body is. ie if i take off an inch of preload, idk that i have an inch to give in thread left.
The safe adjustment range is listed in the manual. If you can't find it online, let me know. I'll look it up in my manual later.
The safe adjustment range is listed in the manual. If you can't find it online, let me know. I'll look it up in my manual later.
thanks - not to derail, but i talked to ohlins and they said there is a safety mark in the form of an unthreaded row among the bottom set of rows; should not undo the cup any lower than that, so I will adjust to that and reset the preload accordingly. hopefully i too will see improvements in ride quality & putting power down-ability!
We use nearly the same exact bar setup, minus I'm on CIRO front brackets.
I plan on increasing my rear spring rates to 1000lbs. What were you on before and are you happy running this much in the rear now?
I ran 700f/1000r from mid-2015 to late 2017, I was getting a lot of hopping in offsets and on corner exit so I decided to soften the car. Now that I'm not preloading the rear springs anymore, I can go back up in rate if I want/need to. I think the X has a higher motion ratio in the rear than the 8/9 does, right? Not sure how the motion ratios of the bars compare though.
I haven't ran the car with the longer rear shocks at Crows yet, so it's hard to say if I'm completely happy with the rear; it was better on exit last weekend at Marina and rides a ton better over bumps. Hoping I can loosen the rear up a little more though.
I ran 700f/1000r from mid-2015 to late 2017, I was getting a lot of hopping in offsets and on corner exit so I decided to soften the car. Now that I'm not preloading the rear springs anymore, I can go back up in rate if I want/need to. I think the X has a higher motion ratio in the rear than the 8/9 does, right? Not sure how the motion ratios of the bars compare though.
I haven't ran the car with the longer rear shocks at Crows yet, so it's hard to say if I'm completely happy with the rear; it was better on exit last weekend at Marina and rides a ton better over bumps. Hoping I can loosen the rear up a little more though.
Let us know how it works out for you. I'm not exactly sure which direction I want to go in, but I need to keep the inside front tire closer to the ground. More rear spring? More rear bar? Less front bar? Will have to do some more trial and error this year.
Dec 13, 2018, 07:48 PM
I'm not exactly sure which direction I want to go in, but I need to keep the inside front tire closer to the ground. More rear spring? More rear bar? Less front bar? Will have to do some more trial and error this year.