LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

I drew a fancy diagram for you. The dot above the lower pivot is the wheel.

nollij

iTrader: (21)

Yea I suppose the lower connection point is not directly at the wheel centerline so the wheel will move backwards with more caster. The distance from the lower connection point to wheel centerline will determine how much movement will be as a result of caster. For a change from 5° caster to 6° caster, the movement backwards in the wheel well will be 0.017*A where A is the distance from the LCA pivot point to the center of the axle. If the lower LCA and axle centerline are the same point, the movement would be 0.

Scrub radius will also screw with you clearances to the back of the wheel well.

edit: with a distance of 4" from lower LCA pivot point to axle centerline, a change from 5° caster to 6° caster at the top mount will result in a horizontal movement of 0.068" (~1/16")

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

You'll are silly with your fancy math and fancy diagrams, lol.

I'd like to introduce you to Eva This is with PSRS and stock top hats. So to those who said the plates move it backwards you guys get 10 points. And to everyone else, think I might be alone here, well I lose 10 points.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

I hop you're not running an acorn lug nut on the stock wheels..


Dallas, could you slot your top plate like Ciro does, but in the direction that would allow for camber adjustment instead of caster adjustment?

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

Psh of course not meng! Those are the stock lugs, mag style I believe they're called with the cutoff wheel mod on the cap so they would work with my extended studs.

Regarding the plates, and this is what challenged me initially and the whole reason we got into the discussion about adjusting camber below. Say he were to slot them to allow for camber adjustment...with the plate set at max caster which in this case they would always be since caster wont be adjustable, you have no way to actually tighten down the bolt that attaches the plate with the bearing carrier housing as that bolt will now be sitting under the strut tower.

Look at this picture and then go back a page to his design. That allen sitting at the top will now be under the sheetmetal. How are you supposed o adjust camber and then tighten it back down without lowering the whole assembly down first then back up?

nollij

iTrader: (21)

Any consideration for pro-dive/anti-dive adjustability in these arms?

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

Oh man, you must be in an area that salts the roads in winter. People are freaking out here because they are talking about going to salt instead of sand for the 1-2 days of snow a year we get.

About making them adjustable. There really isnt any reason to. The reality is we want the strut inboard as much as possible to help with the camber curve and camber gained in roll. Its a small thing but just what we do to get everything we can.

But as Heel2toe said, if you have the bolt on a slot for the strut plate to chassis then I dont see how we would easily be able to tighten it. Maybe if we found a square shouldered bolt and used snap ring to keep it captive with strut top bolts removed. Its possible, but would be convoluted and not really something I think is necessary.

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

The anti-dive will be adjustable just like bumpsteer. With an assortment of spacers to locate it up and down. I think it will definitely be interesting to feel the difference of the car with it at each end of the adjustment range. I really don't have a good feel for which way will be best. Range should certainly be more than the PSRS is though because the large control arm end wont be in the way.