Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

I wish more people understood that hub centric spacers don't center the wheel. Its just an assembly aid. Once torqued it doesn't matter if its there or not.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

You can torque a wheel off center (if its not hub centric) if you just gun the lugs. They do aid in centering the wheel. They don't do anything else. The friction of the wheel/hub mating surface is what holds it all together once the lugs are torqued (but you know that, Dallas lol).

V.8MR

iTrader: (6)

None of this makes sense. If he has 3 way dampers, access to people in industry, I'd think the last concern would be hub rings as being prohibitive from wider wheels/tires...

Franco Saval

What I'm searching is balance. And yes, too much tire means more drag, which needs more force to break and start moving, which means slower. Have you ever spin any tire under WOT in straight line? I haven't, and today's morning I was doing some testing under WOT 1st gear acceleration and never found grip problems. Taken, we have locking diffs, but fortunately we can see in the dashboard if the traction computer is meddling or not (vertical bar at the center). If it doesnt move, your tire is holding grip very well. Cornering though is a different story, which is why 3-way suspension comes into play

Here is why I don't want to run aftermarket.
1. Aftermarket wheels are not magstyle, but our cars wheel hub is designed that way. That means unnecessary forces will be applied to both studs and assembly. It will break. Been there, not fun. I may upgrade the assembly one day to motorsport spec that will not break.

2. After many testing, no need for extra wide tires, we can't find the benefit. My previous setup was all stock with Pzero Trofeo R tires. Too much roll, tires will feel the heat after 30 min session. Also enkei stockies were not holding up well enough. Thats why the stock BBS is perfect. We do see need for a forged wheel, but certainly no need to spend 3k on motorsport spec aftermarket wheels

I'm yet to test the new setup to reconfirm 3-way and full slick (Goodrich R1 hard) is all that is needed. This will happen in one month, will report back

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

The mag vs taper lug nut is not a change in hub or stud design, it only changes the wheel. Any failures you previously experienced were not due to going from a mag wheel to a taper lug wheel. It was likely due to not running a high performance wheel stud like ARP, or not having a replacement interval for your wheel studs.

honda-guy

iTrader: (55)

are you talking about drag racing, because i didnt see you mention anything about braking or cornering. straight line acceleration grip is only a small aspect of a tires performance on a road course. braking and cornering speed is a much larger portion. so unless you have a car that you can go flat out on the track without using brakes and full throttle around all corners, you can always benefit from wider tires. sure there will be more rolling resistance but the benefit of for traction for braking and higher corner speed outweigh that. the negative effect of higher rotational mass and unsprung weight is of higher concern than rolling resistance.

i can bet you any money, that even with a bone stock Evo, and given that everything else is equal, the one with tires size wider than 245 will get faster lap times than the one with 245 from the same tire manufacture. tires is the biggest performance gain for the money you can get on track, unfortunate it's a consumable, so you'll have to keep spending.

as for your concern with studs, if you're going to be doing a lot of track in the future, i highly recommend ARP studs even if you're not running spacers and dont need it. i've seem many oem studs fail even with stock wheels. they are not design for the many heat cycle and retorque that you're going to be doing. the set of APR wheel studs that's on my car now has been on the car for 6 years, and i swap my wheels off and on at least 100 times a year, that's not an exaggeration. and the Project KICS lug nuts that Im using have was on my s2000 track car for 3 years and now on the evo for 6 years. that's 9 years on the same lug nuts, retorqued over 100 times a year.

V.8MR

iTrader: (6)

Honda-Guy, while quite an achievement... I'd deff be swapping my studs and lugs after that much abuse lol

honda-guy

iTrader: (55)

i have a new set of ARP studs in the tool box for over a year, been meaning to do it but never got around to it. the studs and lugs dont seem to be stretched at all. i have put new lugs on them and they turn freely. i've and oem stud stretch to where i couldnt put new lug on by hand.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

Used lug nuts and used ARP studs thread on more easily than brand new OEM studs and lugs. They are so nice...lol

Franco Saval

No drag racing, I do circuit racing. We have tested a stock x with rally slick (225) to go faster than a brand new x (around 1500 miles in the clock, oil change). I do understand that I need to change studs.

What is the wheel and tire setup you are using?

honda-guy

iTrader: (55)

common setup for Evo 9 is 18x10 or 10.5 + 38 offset and use 20mm spacer in the front, 5mm spacers in rear. 275/35/18 hoosier tires. Evo 10 can run 18x10 +25 offset and dont need spacers, and 275/35/18 tires. most club have rules for 275 size tires, that's why we run that size.