2017 SM (Street Mod) Autocross Discussion
Nov 15, 2017, 08:41 AM
#153
Evolving Member
How I would classify pickup starvation:
When you see a sharp drop in the pressure curve, especially when cornering. Pickup starvation shows up immediately as the low pressure "bubble" created moves through the system. It is easy to log and an obvious problem.
Aeration:
This is harder being it isn't so much gforce sensitive as time sensitive. Basically if you are seeing a drop in your average pressure during extended use, and the temps are somewhat stable. You are likely seeing aeration. On the 1/2 evo's we would see about a 20psi drop across the 1/2 mile, all due to the aeration of the oil.
This is the main reason why I consider it a harder/larger problem to solve. Its harder to log and gaurd against and yet the effect are the same. Your "pressure" may only be down 15psi on the aerated oil, but its ability to lubricate has been substantially compromised.
And as for the 300v. I have found their automotive blends to be really good as well if you aren't revving the engine, in my twin turbo 370z I just run the normal 300v and have been happy with its performance.
Zack
Nov 15, 2017, 08:59 AM
#154
I wasn't logging oil pressure so the best I can do is eyeball the gauge from the run and you can clearly see if drop while cornering.
Set the quality to 1080 and oil pressure is the gauge in the middle. Disregard the painfully slow shifting thats a result of a clutch that wouldnt let me shift which as it turns out I cracked the spring perches to the disc, again...
Set the quality to 1080 and oil pressure is the gauge in the middle. Disregard the painfully slow shifting thats a result of a clutch that wouldnt let me shift which as it turns out I cracked the spring perches to the disc, again...
Nov 15, 2017, 09:05 AM
#155
all said though there are guys running the dominator fluid on their dd's.
https://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g2990.pdf
their tech specs for the dominator fluid cite this:
the first part strikes me interested - a full season of 3,000 miles...
Amsoil's FAQ re: Dominator
nothing about lacking anti-corrosion etc, just cites a **** ton of zddp, and is recommended for cars driven on the street. do we know what anti-corrosion inhibitors there are, or is that a general assumption for racing oils? or is it assumed because z-rod specifically cites it?
https://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g2990.pdf
their tech specs for the dominator fluid cite this:
After a full racing season covering 3,000 miles of extreme driving, a teardown of one of the team’s Mercury* 525 EFI V-8 engines revealed clean, virtually wear-free components.
Amsoil's FAQ re: Dominator
Why isn’t AMSOIL Dominator® Synthetic Racing Oil recommended for street-driven vehicles?
Answer: AMSOIL Dominator Synthetic Racing Oil is a premium-quality oil formulated for maximum protection in high-performance and racing applications. It is fortified with high levels of zinc and phosphorus, which are incompatible with catalytic converters common in today’s street-driven vehicles; therefore, Dominator Racing Oil does not carry API service classifications required by many standard passenger vehicles. However, Dominator Racing Oil is the ideal recommendation for street rods, muscle cars and other high-performance vehicles driven on the street.
Answer: AMSOIL Dominator Synthetic Racing Oil is a premium-quality oil formulated for maximum protection in high-performance and racing applications. It is fortified with high levels of zinc and phosphorus, which are incompatible with catalytic converters common in today’s street-driven vehicles; therefore, Dominator Racing Oil does not carry API service classifications required by many standard passenger vehicles. However, Dominator Racing Oil is the ideal recommendation for street rods, muscle cars and other high-performance vehicles driven on the street.
nothing about lacking anti-corrosion etc, just cites a **** ton of zddp, and is recommended for cars driven on the street. do we know what anti-corrosion inhibitors there are, or is that a general assumption for racing oils? or is it assumed because z-rod specifically cites it?
AMSOIL Z-ROD Synthetic Motor Oil is specially engineered for classic and high-performance vehicles. It features a high-zinc formulation to prevent wear on flat-tappet camshafts and other critical engine components, along with a proprietary blend of rust and corrosion inhibitors for added protection during long-term storage. Z-ROD Synthetic Motor Oil is designed to perform on the street and protect during storage.
Nov 15, 2017, 09:30 AM
#156
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Since your Evo sits all winter Sam, I would do an oil change with cheap dino oil (the $25 with filter special at the parts store stuff) you store it. Then change it again and put dominator in it before your season. So you would have a pre and post race season oil change.
Nov 15, 2017, 09:33 AM
#157
Since your Evo sits all winter Sam, I would do an oil change with cheap dino oil (the $25 with filter special at the parts store stuff) you store it. Then change it again and put dominator in it before your season. So you would have a pre and post race season oil change.
Nov 15, 2017, 09:47 AM
#158
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
LOL, you're telling me. My car takes a tick over 7qts with the custom oil pan. Oil changes hurt the wallet lol.
Nov 15, 2017, 12:24 PM
#160
Evolved Member
Nov 29, 2017, 07:17 PM
#161
btw - https://www.redlineoil.com/30wt-race-oil-10w30
may try this and do a UOA as well - sounds pretty much the same as dominator
may try this and do a UOA as well - sounds pretty much the same as dominator
Nov 30, 2017, 08:20 AM
#162
How much camber are you guys in here on Hoosiers running in the rear? Obviously every setup is different so I will have to play around with it to see what yields the best wear. But previously coming from street tires I was only dialing in around -1.8 in the rear and -3.5 in the front which seemed to work well but its apparent I dont have enough in the rear now on hohos.
Also, at what point did you need to pick up adjustable toe arms and maybe even rear LCA's to get you to where you need to be? Im guessing, I'll be able to get enough camber on the factory arms but I will struggle getting toe to where I want to be. Once again every setup is different and ride height plays a huge role here but trying to gauge ballpark figure.
One of my buddies needs a new toe arm as his OEM one cracked and he's thinking of picking up an adjustable set which I said was not necessary for his setup. However, he mentioned that he was just going to get them and if I end up needing additional adjustability we can trade arms.
Also, at what point did you need to pick up adjustable toe arms and maybe even rear LCA's to get you to where you need to be? Im guessing, I'll be able to get enough camber on the factory arms but I will struggle getting toe to where I want to be. Once again every setup is different and ride height plays a huge role here but trying to gauge ballpark figure.
One of my buddies needs a new toe arm as his OEM one cracked and he's thinking of picking up an adjustable set which I said was not necessary for his setup. However, he mentioned that he was just going to get them and if I end up needing additional adjustability we can trade arms.
Nov 30, 2017, 08:59 AM
#165
I'll eventually make something for a toe arm but I don't know if that will be in conjunction with a full billet upright as well. I have an idea for a way to make it modular like the front but it certainly wouldn't be as cheap as these Chinese mass produced things.