LV///R

iTrader: (36)

Haha, yes it's been a JOY to fit the rears! If I had to do it over again, I wouldn't have cut the rear fender lip off and just rolled/pulled it. I didn't crack and or chip the paint one bit while pulling them so I'm happy in that regards, but I did separate the outer skin from the inner metal so I will have to bond the fenders back together! I only started to separate once I was about finished pulling...


I've also been debating on a tire machine for some time! Unfortunately I don't have much extra room in my garage. If I did, no question would I already have one. I just took the HRE's from the supra to get the tires flipped, and them have them mount the 285's on the NT03+M's for the evo. Well, to make a long story short, they scratched 3 out of the 4 HRE lips. This even after I politely told them to be careful with those wheels, since they were $1900/ wheel new....

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

Tire pyrometer indicated I did not need more camber.

Sounds like the tire shop owes you some cash. No excuse for scratching wheels. It's not that hard.

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

Oh yeah joy is certainly one of the words that comes to mind. Quite frankly I butchered my quarters badly. Didnt help that I chose to do it during one of the coldest weekends a few years ago before I had my house so the garage I was in was very cold. One side came out OK but the other side was a disaster. I also cracked my front fender right as I was just about done where the tab is. It was just about perfect then boom donezo!

So if you didnt crack the paint then I think youre in good shape. There is a great thread on fitting those wheels with about a million questions that I asked. Like for example right where the bumper bolt is I was having issues getting that to bow outward. All it took was a simple slit at the right angle to allow that to move outward. I forget who told me that think it was Marshall but that was very helpful in my case. I think if I were to do it again I'd have much better luck. Just wish I didnt use my own evo as the test dummy lol!

And man that sucks about the wheels! Are they planning on compensating you to fix the scratches or how did they go about handling that? Seems like tire shops must have insurance to deal with this exact thing. I know I'd be pissed to sorry to hear about that...but yeah tire machine and balancer is on the list. Space is always a premium and that is part of my dilemma. I do have a good amount of storage on the 2nd floor of the garage but then I need to lug wheels up the stairs which will probably be annoying. But its also a large footprint to give up for something Id be using a few times a year.

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

Mr fancy pants over here, lol! I think in general auto-x setups tend require more camber than a track focused evo. But I've never monitored tire temps like that. My measure is when my tires are shot did they wear evenly? I know with my current set Im going to kill the insides early but I wasted them dd'ing the car and barely raced last season so it makes perfect sense. But my last set was just about perfect with -3.5

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

I don't own that...lol. Guy in town that used to own a race prep shop still offers track support at a very affordable rate to some of his clients (myself included). So me, and the two friends I usually go to the track with split his fee.

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

You guys think its fun fitting a nice short 285... The taller 295 is significantly harder unless I wanted to do some real flares.

On top of what I did for 285s, I cut the fender in the rear where the seam is stronger to pull it more, trimmed material up to the rear bumper bolts, and slowly stretched them further. Front I relocated the front bumper bolt and trimmed that mount, cut out the front section of wheel well cover, various trimming, more pulling.

I'll still go back to 285s after I finish off these two sets of tires though. Short = lower which with my uprights I want the front as low as I can get it. I think the front will drop about 3/4" and rear 1/2" when switching back to 285s. Going for low and narrow.

V.8MR

iTrader: (6)

Your car looks gorgeous in that picture! lol

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

^Agreed look pretty perfect except its not silver...are the 295's that much harder to fit? I recall reading that theyre the same width as the 285's just taller, is that correct? Im contemplating taking the jump to r-comps finally considering I should have a tow vehicle soon. I just assumed if 285 is good then 295 is better 305 even better so on and so forth.

But not like its taller than the 275/35 which everyone seems to run with all the scrubs available.

Also, you have the PF01 from the looks of it in which case those tuck in an extra 8mm so rear fitment should be even easier for you, doh!

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

They certainly fit tighter than the 285s on the same wheel. Both width and height was something I had to deal with. 275s are definitely narrower, at least comparing to my RA1s. Even though they are taller than the 295s, they fit way easier also.

In the pic above, the front tire is about 4mm from the strut and it only kinda fits. Technically it would rub at full bump on the upper fender lip but not too concerned with a little rubbing for short instances. Steering rub took me using my control arms and perfectly positioning the wheel along with the very minimum of spacers based on strut clearance. Its a good think I know a guy who can make them

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

So being that your front is so different now Im not sure how much relates to a more stockish setup. But what did you end up with a spacer up front? In my case up front I have an effective +13 offset.

Judging from your picture my car sits higher than yours so I guess thats helping me from a fitment perspective.

When I first put on my Ohlins I had the car corner balanced but since then I've gone through something like 4 different sets of springs and just kept the ride height the same. Its probably a lil funky at this point but I just left well enough alone for the time being.

I guess what Im getting at is that I see Balrok is selling a set of 295's and its tempting me. In your opinion would it be worth picking them upif I decide to take the jump to r-comps or should I stick to a 285/30? The fact that youre going back to 285s makes me think there inst much of a benefit but I figured having a lil taller tire would help with gearing thus would be beneficial.

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

I'm on the 295s still because I couldn't pass up the deal I got for two sets. If I happened to get more at a steal, I would probably keep using them just because I know my car can make it work without anything more. Either one work just fine, I want 285s again because I can get the front much lower with them. Gonna be ricer slammed!

I have an effective front offset of ~23. +38 wheels and 15mm spacer. It only works because I have less camber now. But like you said, its hard to compare my front to stock anymore. My control arms are marginally longer as well, so I also have very little scrub radius.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

So our cars can be as low as we like as long as the FRONT control arms are horizontal with the ground? I went by the rears so my car is pretty high lol

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

I've just slammed the rear and not worried too much about it. Grip back there is easy, especially with the wing. Front I have lots of room to keep the suspension happy with another .75" drop. I think its a move in the right direction, but either way its just something else to test. I never assume I have exactly the right setup. I always like to overshoot things or make bigger changes to really get a feel for what it did.

Like running ~9deg caster, I don't know if its the right amount or too much but only one way to find out.

nollij

iTrader: (21)

After they go horizontal, you get camber loss in compression (ie: cornering). So what is more important, lower center of gravity or camber loss/gain under compression?

Think about the arc the arm makes and the horizontal position relative to the chassis as it travels through that arc. If the arms are pointing down prior to compression, the arm pushes outwards resulting in increased camber under compression. So, between a downward aiming arm and lots of positive caster, you end up with a lot of dynamic camber gain.

The rear is a multi-link and slamming it down in the rear screws with the bump steer, not the camber (as much). Or, your cheap "bump steer" arm will aggressively "bump" the chassis and you lose grip on the inside wheel. You also will end up with a little less front grip under acceleration due to the trailing arm being at a more horizontal position relative to the chassis though.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

Not trying to put the car on its nuts or anything. I'm just wondering if I can get rid of some of this three- finger Gap I have in the front and lower my center of gravity little LOL