nollij

iTrader: (21)

Been looking for about 30 minutes for a part number from one of those. First one to get a purchasable part number gets a cookie.

Awesome find btw

kikiturbo

ok here is a US list of MOOG inner tie rods with lengths (usually something hard to find)..

http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com...r_tie_rods.asp

you are looking for 16x1.5 in steering rack side and 14x1.5 on outer side.. length about 13 inches..
so I would say

http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/moog-ev236

http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/moog-ev426

http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/moog-ev369

first of which is the eagle talon / eclipse part...

the honda odyssey part looks cheap enough..

there are others on the list, depending on the type of outer rod end you want to use.. but best go to a big car parts store and measure for yourself before buying..

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

Sweet find indeed! As I said prior, with all the smart folks on here why wasn't this discovered years ago? Just seems like such a better idea.

Now the question remains, do I pick up a set of X control arms or patiently wait for Dallas? Now obviously Dallas's setup with the uprights and arms is a much more drastic upgrade, to those that went with evo x control arms is it a significant difference to warrant the change?

kikiturbo

get Dallas arms or something similar as it will allow for roll centre and castor adjustment.. X arms will only give you wider track

I am doing my own front setup but I doubt it will ever be 4 sale...

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

No doubt the full shebang from Dallas will be far superior but I guess what Im curious of is how to quantify that?

Dallas is still putting his parts through the paces so Id imagine he's a year out before I'll be buying them. But in the meantime is going to evo X control arms worthwile improvement? Id love to further improve the roll centers and Im all for more caster as well granted I'm currently maxxed out from a wheel fitment perspective unless I pair the arms with his plates he was working on. Although, at that point, unless I missed something, I think adjusting camber will make me hate life.

Decisions decisions...

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

I wouldn't bother with Evo X arms if you plan to buy Dallas's stuff in the not so distant future.

kikiturbo

I will just tell you that I will have fixed top mounts and my camber adjustment will all be done on the struit mounting point on the knuckle..

I think that you need to do the whole package or none at all.. for extra castor you need both arms and top mounts, otherwise the wheel will move and that is not good.

I can tell that a friend of mine tried to put evo X knuckles and arms on his car and that is a nightmire project due to different abs sensors on both platforms.. Just X arms is ok, but it doesnt have proper geo for castor improvement...etc .etc...

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

The real reason I decided to make my arms over just doing more work on my IX arms was three things. One was the stiction you get in the inner bushing having the offset caster bushing. Its reaaaally bad especially when the fresh grease squeezes out.

2nd, was the caster adjustment and being able to get the wheel perfectly centered. This has actually be sweet so far. My tires have always rubbed before and I just did an event and I can do full u-turns without rubbing on the 275s which are really tall.

Last, I don't believe in the whole pro-lift/anti-anti-dive thing WL put out. Travel does not equate to weight transfer which they elude to. So with my setup, I add in a just a little more anti-dive than the factory has. I'll flip my bushing and do some back to back testing but I couldn't do that with the Perrin PSRS bushing. I made contact with the chassis if I did.

I also thought if I could get the control arms under $1000, and it was me buying something I would definitely keep some stock arms and buy a racey setup for summer.

The uprights are definitely going to be a bigger gain than the control arms but also cost almost 2x as much. I also only have 2 left and will have to put another full order in after I'm down to 1 left.

I'm building a set of control arms for testing on a certain higher profile T/A car, so I hope to get feed back and testing quicker this time than I can just do myself. Perhaps that gets me to mid summer time as being able to offer a couple sets.



Yeah, this really isn't that bad. What I do is set the camber to some point then set it on the ground on a leveled spot (I do the water jugs with a tube and space with HD 12x12x.125 tiles). Check the camber and figure out the delta to what I want. Then jack car back up and measure each wheel with like a cell phone app and adjust by the delta.

Its pretty easy, but then again Ive been doing my own alignment for about 14years so maybe I'm over it being intimidating

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

So no doubt the uprights are the most drastic change. Those are #1 on my wish list for your parts but I'm slow when it comes to pulling the trigger on things. But theyre on my spreadsheet so it's only a matter of time

I think we're all on the same page regarding the stiction. I think we've gone full circle with that concept as I was trying to grasp why it is so challenging to make that a spherical.

Its interesting that you noted less rubbing now with your current alignment. With my CDR plates and the PSRS my wheel is perfectly centered however at full lock I still have rubbing on the inner fender well. Maybe I went too small with my spacer but it seemed like any thicker and I'd be rubbing the lip on the bumper.

Admittedly Im not all that well versed on suspension geometry like some of you folks so maybe you can explain what is happening that is allowing you full steering lock without rubbing?

Your explanation of the alignment makes sense in theory. I believe some newer alignment machines work in the same concept and allow you to do what you described such that you can make changes under the vehicle with the wheels off the ground and see the changes in real time.

When I switch to my winter suspension setup I do my own alignment and have been doing so for about 4 years now. I anticipated doing my own alignment for race season too but I've struggled getting camber to be where I want it to be. Even with the water bucket method and floor tiles for leveling purposes I still get reading all over the map. Ill put on the angle finder and it'll read one thing then I take it off and put it back on and the reading will be a half a degree different. It drives me insane! The string works very well for toe hard to mess that up granted its quite tedious. But alignments are something I've wanted to nail down for years now and while I've done it many times now, not nearly as many as your have, but enough to know what needs to be done, I still struggle with the camber and end up paying my guy instead which kills me...

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

A little gratuitous pic before I put things together.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

Dallas: do you think the ABS sensor is safe from the heat? I just removed my dust shields and made heat shields for that and the ball joint. Just curious if it's really exposed to THAT much heat, in that position.

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

That's a good question. I haven't run heat shields for years and I think its pretty common on other track cars too. So would assume the ABS sensors aren't effected by heat too bad. As for ball joints when using stock control arms and my uprights the ball joint is moved down 2". So the boot is moved that much further outside of central heat, maybe? Either way, there is a lot of meat in the aluminum to drill and tap some M4s to mount a heat shield.

vtec fever

at 41 psi on my gtx35 I was at 750 @8k
but im on a small turbo
I'm sure on a 6466 or bigger I'll will feed a 1000 whp set up pretty easy, with the correct -8 feed lines 👍🏿

Wheelie

iTrader: (2)

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

^Part of the ACD pump? Expand please...