Wheelie

iTrader: (2)

Yea... Its the part between the electric motor and the pump body. I broke it trying to get the pump apart. Nothing really different from OEM except it wouldn't be cast.

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

OK I knew it looked familiar

Was curious what you were trying to accomplish wasn't sure if you reworked it for more pressure or something.

So are you a machinist by trade? Seems like a costly route to go vs sourcing a used pump. Nonetheless, badass!

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

If you wanted to go full BAMF, you could machine that part from aluminum, and then use stainless inserts for the pump wear surfaces. No more corrosion issue.

DecBro

A trade-able item you have there sir.
Kikturbo would be impressed on that, I'm sure!

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

No more corrosion you say?

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

Best way to not have corrosion, don't like in a salt state. Also, trailer queen...

V.8MR

iTrader: (6)

I bought this pump with about 50k on it for 200 bucks from a guy in UT. No corrosion!

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

Yeah I got impatient taking mine apart and cracked it like a moron so I too picked up a used pump from a guy in CA with a broken solenoid for cheap. Swapped on my solenoid checked the pump plate (amazingly that one came right apart!) and stuck it in my trunk.

And Dallas Eva should be a trailer queen very soon but too little too late. One of my many scheduled projects is to spend a ton of time under the car and treat/ fix any corroded areas. 12 years of New England winters has taken a toll on her...but at least my pump is now protected, lol!

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

Lower CG if you mount it outside, underneath the trunk like the X...LOL

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

One day I'll design a fancier bracket to mount the pump on the driver side in the evap canister location. I think its pretty low reward to put that effort though, people who are willing to relocate are also probably capable of fabbing own brackets.

And I went driver side because large muffler makes space an issue on the other side.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, that's where I would put it. Driver rear side of the car needs the weight anyway. I already have the battery back there and we still had to adjust that corner to add weight to it when corner balancing.

V.8MR

iTrader: (6)

Divers side was heavier? Seems odd since trans is there, driver, steering rack, pedals etcal.

I always thought to move weight to the passenger side rear.

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

I think its bc the engine is offset to the passenger side. Cast iron block is heavier than AL trans case.

I put mine on the driverside bc I have a sub(yummy!) on the right side in the way Priorities lol!

And yeah higher COG in the trunk vs under the car but half my motivation for putting it in the trunk was to protect it from corrosion. So sticking it back under the car makes no sense in my use case.

Reminds me I said I'd make a how to on the relocation as I know folks are interested. There are a few how to's on it but not that complete IMO. But the reality is I'd guess the folks who care to relocate it have some sort of fab skills so it can be summed up like this. Remove pump. Make ACD line to go into trunk. Extend wire harness. Fab bracket. Profit.

But I will admit there were a couple details such as size of wire line size etc that would be helpful.

kikiturbo

that is the usual EUDM stock location for 7,8,9... Dont do it as it corrodes there like hell..

I am putting mine in the trunk. I have kept it below the car only to test my replacement parts..

As a matter of fact, I am relocating the evap canister to that position, as EUDM cars have it in the engine bay.. LOL

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

Drive rear was light.