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I was debating adding some sort of pin system for that plate to locate it and help transfer loads, ie have a receiving hole in the main knuckle and a male pin on the plate and have them either be a slip fit or very slight interference fit.
I was paying a fair bit for some turned parts on the billet control arms so decided to try my hand at machining them on the haas cnc. The spacers are all 303ss and they look super awesome. I love that I can knock these out and dial in the bearing fit exactly rather than hope someone else cares as much as I do.
I also needed to make more tube ends for the control arms to get welded up. Half way through but they are looking great.
Those running front Cusco / CIRO brackets in full soft... what kind of endlinks are you running? There is no way my OEM or heim joint endlinks won't bind in that location. I have a X but the brackets and the endlinks are the same between 8-9 and X I believe.
Thats full soft. Think about which position would move the bar further for which way is stiffer. So its outside on the control arm and inside on the swaybar for stiffer.
Bar has so much stiffness and if you use that closer to the center of the car (shorter acting arm) it will push on control arm less than it would with longer arm (pushing it closer to the wheel). So, if you want more action from that bar make it to push further out.
But, shorter bar will have greater force than longer arm bar, so when choosing the holes on the bar itself, shorter bar length will give you higher forces.
Last edited by MrAWD; Jul 25, 2018 at 08:26 AM.
Reason: arm to bar....well it is confusing
Bar has so much stiffness and if you use that closer to the center of the car (shorter acting arm) it will push on control arm less than it would with longer arm (pushing it closer to the wheel). So, if you want more action from that bar make it to push further out.
But, shorter bar will have greater force than longer arm, so when choosing the holes on the bar itself, shorter bar length will give you higher forces.
^^^ this 100%.
BTW, I did a local autox last Saturday with the endlinks angled like the pics above and they didn't bind .
Full soft ended up being pretty silly for autox regardless. I'll be trying mid stiff this Saturday. If that doesn't work I'm back to full stiff.
Im becoming more and more a believer that a race car only needs one swaybar and in evos case it's the rear. Now if can act to help when rates are more street friendly but much more than stock isn't necessary. Stock roll rate is 50% contributed by the sway bar in front, I'd rather see that less than 25%.
Jun 30, 2018, 03:24 PM
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