When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Narrower especially for autox has its merits. But like everything in life there is always a tradeoff. The challenge with going narrower as you run wide rubber as you know is you start hitting obstructions that arent exactly plausible to work around such as inner frame rails and suspension components. Not to mentioned the fronts need to be able to rotate so giving up steering angle is a big nono IMO especially on a car like an evo with the worst turning radius known to mankind, granted more caster helped that some.
Looks like about 16/21.5k... A little stiffer than your average track day bro .
Even as still as that sounds, we still see chassis movement. Probably a lot of it due to jacking on the inside and tire compression. Going to work on getting lower though to help.
Edit: Looking at this a little further, Im almost certainly back on throttle here. This is after an apex so I should be at least getting back into the throttle by now.
Totally agree, people put to much worry into some body roll. I previously got bad feelings from running rates less than what I have now cause the shocks couldn't control things. These flags seem to be up to the task though I have things at a pretty stiff setting nearly maxed on comp and rebound. We'll see how long they last like this.
Got a batch of these guys made for the trailing arms and some custom toe arms that'll lead to the rear uprights getting finished. Toe arms going to need a rod end on the outer position for bumpsteer adjustment. Trailing arms will stick with these joint in the new upright as a carryover.
I feel on the stock knuckles the only real solution is an offset spherical rod end on the inboard side. You can only lower the outboard side so much before it sitting flush in the knuckle. The inboard side needs to move up. The Whiteline kit does this with an offset insert in the poly bushing. I’d like to see an offset insert made for a spherical rod end.
Best solution is totally redoing the knuckle.
Last edited by EVOlutionary; Oct 21, 2018 at 06:25 AM.
I had mine made a different way... this is for the rear toe arm
looking at your adapters are you sure the position of the toe arm ball joint will be ok?
As Ive said before, that is an over constrained design. You cant guarantee both surfaces will have even loads so you cant guarantee which will bear the load. If its the taper, then the flat is doing nothing until things deflect, if its the flat then you're floating in the taper. There is no amount of perfect grind on the post that will make up for variation in the hub too. This can only work when something is absolutely controlled like you might see in a dual contact collet holder.
As Ive said before, that is an over constrained design. You cant guarantee both surfaces will have even loads so you cant guarantee which will bear the load. If its the taper, then the flat is doing nothing until things deflect, if its the flat then you're floating in the taper. There is no amount of perfect grind on the post that will make up for variation in the hub too. This can only work when something is absolutely controlled like you might see in a dual contact collet holder.
The flat is holding, not the taper, taper is there just to provide some installement accuracy.. the point of the design is not having a 14mm shaft in bending. I am not knocking your solution, just presenting a different one.
looking at your adapters are you sure the position of the toe arm ball joint will be ok?
Toe arm position should be fine. His tapered section is the same as the ones I'm running on the prototype trailing arms and there's no issue there, the only difference is he changed the design to use female threads and a bolt that threads into the bottom of the non tapered section that runs through the bearing vs male threads and having a nut thread on.
Jul 25, 2018, 02:55 PM
.
