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Putting in a FP Red (base) for Road Race set up. Hoping my 2.4 makes up for any lag. Also hope it fixes my current oil over filling catch can issues. Anyone run FP Red before in road race application? Currently run 530hp at 26psi with Map EF3.
Currently on 17x10 Rpf1's (38 offset) with 295/35 Hoosier R7's. Is there a wider set up I can fit under my stock body? (Everything has been done to fenders that can be done)
While I am at it, guess AP isn't making any Radi-Cal kits for us? I think I can work with the Russian connection from my previous thread.
Should be fine. Just keep boost reasonable, like 24-25psi to keep the journal bearing happy. Also make sure you have a good oiling system. A good baffled pan like Racefab, or the one I have on my car from someone in the US.
How wide you want to go. 10in wide with 285-ish tires is pretty easy to fit on stock body. Going wider will require new rear trailing arm and a different offset wheel, pushing them inwards a smidge.
It is possible to fit 315's on 10.5in wide rims with stock body (Heavy fender rolling/pushing) using the WiseFab kit.
[QUOTE=EVOizmm;11759344]How wide you want to go. 10in wide with 285-ish tires is pretty easy to fit on stock body. Going wider will require new rear trailing arm and a different offset wheel, pushing them inwards a smidge.
It is possible to fit 315's on 10.5in wide rims with stock body (Heavy fender rolling/pushing) using the WiseFab kit.
I currently run 295/35 17" + 38. Spacers up front. Ronnie, I want to replicate your 10.5" wife set up in 17's if possible. Maybe tire selection will demand I go to 18's. I'm curious how to clear the 'hard body corners' behind front wheels and other 'hard body' clearance areas. Can you post pic of your bodywork in these areas?
How wide you want to go. 10in wide with 285-ish tires is pretty easy to fit on stock body. Going wider will require new rear trailing arm and a different offset wheel, pushing them inwards a smidge.
It is possible to fit 315's on 10.5in wide rims with stock body (Heavy fender rolling/pushing) using the WiseFab kit.
I currently run 295/35 17" + 38. Spacers up front. Ronnie, I want to replicate your 10.5" wife set up in 17's if possible. Maybe tire selection will demand I go to 18's. I'm curious how to clear the 'hard body corners' behind front wheels and other 'hard body' clearance areas. Can you post pic of your bodywork in these areas?
Just learned Hoosier offers 315/30 in 18" size only. For 17" size, only the 315/35 is offered making it to tall. Apparently the 295/35 is rated up to 11 inch rim. So, the question remains unspiring weight savings of 17" vs 18" rim and stretching the 295/35 over a 10.5 width.
Last edited by Driv200; Jul 24, 2017 at 10:07 AM.
Reason: Spelling
Several years back I had an FP Red (jb) and Robert at FP convinced me it was not a good idea to run it hard (I was wanting to do 24-26 psi) on the road course due to heat and the bearing design, even with their oil line and good quality oil. I would call FP and talk to them about it.
I ran my FP Green (older JB MHI 54mm housing) at 28 psi all of last season. seem to hold up pretty well. Not sure why a Red couldn't do it, as long as you aren't overspinning that turbo. We've tried a few of their ball bearing turbos and have not had very good luck.
I've got 18x10.5 +30 (20mm spacer in front, 3mm spacer in rear) wheels w/275/35 RC-1 tires. Stock body, fenders rolled, fender spacers in front, rear lca has been clearanced a tad. I feel like my setup is fairly tight, I'm curious to see how you're getting a 295 to fit.
295 Hoosier fits on my car but the height certainly makes things tough. Once these tires are gone Im going back to the shorter 285 and getting the car lower. Width is easy enough to deal with but height is making it a pain with clearing front when steering and low offsets via spacers.
It took my billet control arms to push the wheel forward and increase caster so I could run less camber and less spacer to make it work and not rub the back constantly.
May 25, 2017, 07:40 PM
