EVOizmm

iTrader: (10)

yeah stay away from all the Chinese forged cranks. better off with an OEM or Eagle.

we've been using billet now and so far have not cracked one. time will tell though.

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

Was your manley forged or billet? I couldnt remember but I thought the billet manley was fine hearing from other sources.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

The Forged Eagle is good. The Manley forged brakes. Idk about the billet, but Abacus (Tim at RSP) and TSComp seem to have had good luck with them, but the K1 billet is same price if you just want to avoid putting manley in your motor .


Reason I won't run Manley is there turbo tuffs are heavy, their cranks brake, and AFAIK, they don't offer an FSR/strut type piston, only full rounds.


And yeah, the ER custom pistons are badass parts. Much more stout than the standard Wiseco HD's, but they do come at a price. Somewhere in the $800 range depending on what you're getting (pin thickness, coatings, etc)..

Driv200

iTrader: (1)

There must be a mathematical equation I have not learned yet for rod length to stroke ratio. Have gone back and read several of the posts over and over trying to take notes on what each of you like and have experience with.


Called a race shop today and asked what they would build for a time attack / 25 minute session track car:
* 2.0 long rod for ease of maintenance, parts, and durability
* Manley I-beams
* CP pistons with coating. Shorter/lighter style for track work. Forgot what compression.
* 88mm billet crank
* refresh my stage V head
* ARP 625+ Studs
* new gaskets, pumps, etc


This is complete opposite from my current 2.4LR, but more in line with what many of you are saying on this thread. With my over-the-top fuel system....I should go ahead and try a larger turbo set up I guess and try to overcome the turbo lag.
(twin 350 external pumps on surge tank, 250 internal fuel tank, 2200 injectors, upgraded fuel rail & fuel lines)

Ayoustin

iTrader: (2)

Is your FP red using an MHI housing or the FP stainless housing? And is it a ball bearing turbo? You shouldn't have any issues with a BB MHI red and a 2.0L on track. I'm never waiting on my CBRD 3B turbo to spool and it's only a little bit smaller than a red.

If you wanted to go to a larger turbo I think a black would be the logical choice. Or maybe a zephyr. Either one should be able to hold 500whp on a track without failing I would think. I haven't really seen many guys use a stock frame larger than a red on a track car, most seem to move away from stock flange once they start chasing larger numbers for track applications. I'm a big fan of the stock frame stuff, so I'd love to see someone push a black or zephyr on a track for a season or two.

jheff

Now I have not found out for sure, but I spent the past half hour or so looking around at what a lot of the TA/TT cars are running. So far I have seen:

2.2 UMS Tuning Time Attack Evo
2.3 HKS CT230R Evo
2.2 CyberEvo
2.2 Sierra-Sierra Evo
2.4 (now 2.2) Professional Awesome Evo
2.2 Project Nemo / Chris Eaton Evo
2.2 Team Cyprus / Black Mamba Evo
2.2 Escort Team Evo
2.2 Tilton Interiors Evo

I had a really great draft with more specifics but it got deleted
Oh well, but these guys are the motorsports side of things so I do not know how much these things are made for longevity.
If anyone wants to read the articles that I gathered this information on, PM me because I would prefer not to link spam

Driv200

iTrader: (1)

I just installed the cheaper/older FP red turbo. Remind me what MHI is again? I guess I'm on the FP Stainless housing. I should of bent over and got the improved BB turbo.

Driv200

iTrader: (1)

Awesome! Ofcourse that blows my just agreed on 2.0 theory out of the water.
PM Sent

getsideways

iTrader: (18)

OP what power level have you run your current 2.4 at for the past few years at track days?

getsideways

iTrader: (18)

MHI is the original Mitsubishi housing, If you are using the Fp housing you dont have MHI.

MHI spools better
FP makes more top end power

Your old EF was a MHI housing i believe.

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

10% more motor is 10% more motor... 2.4l's have some other issues with high RPMs and crank reliability that seem to make them less desirable than the 2.2l. 2.2 seems to be the best of both, keeping high RPM using a 2.4l block, 25cc more displacement (1997 to 2223cc), strong cranks, etc.

EVOizmm

iTrader: (10)

PA is a 2.2 FYI. they are using a 4g64 block but destroked.

Also I'd really not recommend calling shops and wasting their time asking for info unless you plan to go with them. That will burn some bridges really fast.

just do a 2.2 with a billet crank and 4g63 block. There is no "best" of anything, there is always some compromise. the 2.2 seems to be a good compromise of it all.

RazorLab

iTrader: (8)

Most of those are track all out attempts for flyer laps only. For a motor that lasts, 2.0 is still the king. I actually thought that was overwhelmingly common knowledge at this point in time.

Didn't Pro Awesome go through a bunch of motors this year?

jheff

Ahh thank you, will update it. The article I found they had a 2.4, I will look for a newer article!

I believe they have. When I was going through and finding these links, I did not take the time to look for newer updates, just for some basics.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

Don't run Manley Ibeams, they are heavy. Go with something light, Carillo, Oliver, etc. Your rods really shouldn't weigh more than 600 grams. For the piston, make sure it is an FSR/strut style piston (JE FSR, Wiseco HD), not a full round. Also, make sure the pins are least .220 wall. With CP, you have to get the upgraded pins IIRC.