Dry Sump Thread: More offerings are available!
May 2, 2018, 03:10 PM
#151
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
whats the 3rd thing? You have RPM and pressure. A 3d table is a good idea though, you could have oil temp be one axis and rpm on another. Then you could compensate for the oil thinning at higher temps.
Edit: Sorry i misunderstood what you where trying to say. Yes i think a lookup table is a good idea. Having many RPM and pressure points would make the system way more useful. What you described i think would be considered a 2d lookup table though, which is probably good enough.
Edit: Sorry i misunderstood what you where trying to say. Yes i think a lookup table is a good idea. Having many RPM and pressure points would make the system way more useful. What you described i think would be considered a 2d lookup table though, which is probably good enough.
I bet if you ask nicely, perhaps bribe thoroughly, Mychailo (MrFred) could add a table for that as long as you give up a different analog input (rear o2 perhaps). I dont know if that would be able to trigger a CEL or something, but you would need to think it through to fully define.
I would guess, 2D map, RPM vs Pressure would be sufficient. Anything else may need another input which is probably not available.
I would guess, 2D map, RPM vs Pressure would be sufficient. Anything else may need another input which is probably not available.
May 3, 2018, 01:23 AM
#152
Evolved Member
no matter how well you baffle the pan you will still have issues because the pump just draws a lot of oil and everything flows down to the flywheel side of the sump... Having a large sump helps because you have more of a buffer but if the right hander is long enough...
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Driv200 (Jun 6, 2018)
The following users liked this post:
Driv200 (Jun 6, 2018)
May 25, 2018, 11:38 AM
#155
What a dream project this has been. Nothing like DIY at this level of build. Been a long and tedius process, but learned a lot as planned. New friends along the way and a car that runs better than ever!!! We did our first full boost data logs lastnight and got nearly perfect numbers across EGT's, AFR's, Oil Temp, Oil Pressure, etc.... Huge thanks to my friend and crew chief on this project Bracen Frost. A lot of thanks to all you forum members who have chimed in with all our questions. Your feedback has been much appreciated and helped in our R&D through this journey. Love this forum! Thank you all for the support and kind words on the build. When I get a dyno day, I will post up results. Looking forward to seeing you all on the road course! What track events should we apply for and where?
Action Andy
Bracen Frost - #FrostyTune
Action Andy
Bracen Frost - #FrostyTune
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Driv200 (Jun 6, 2018)
Jun 6, 2018, 09:20 AM
#157
Thank you. We changed our oil temp sensor to “after” oil cooler. Knowing the 12qrt dry sump is in trunk and traveling all that way, curious where you guys would measure oil temps? Before or after oil cooler?
Highest temp thus far with new 12qt dry sump has been just after a few street pulls at idle with 122 degrees F* with the oil cooler covered/blocked from air cooling. Normal operating oil temps at normal cruise appear to be 98 degrees F* with oil cooler covered.
Anyone have a “after oil cooler” at-track-temp-range with dry sump?
Highest temp thus far with new 12qt dry sump has been just after a few street pulls at idle with 122 degrees F* with the oil cooler covered/blocked from air cooling. Normal operating oil temps at normal cruise appear to be 98 degrees F* with oil cooler covered.
Anyone have a “after oil cooler” at-track-temp-range with dry sump?
Jun 15, 2018, 10:24 AM
#158
EvoM Guru
We measure temps right before it goes into the engine. I asked around quite a bit with this question and where to measure. e.g at the tank or post engine or what.
Basically the conclusion i came to is it doesnt really matter what temp it is in the tank or pre cooler etc all you really care about is the temp that its entering the engine/ in the engine at.
122F is really cold personally. We aim for around 100deg C to 120/130deg C absolute max. (210F - 260F) anything over this and my oil supplier says the oil will begin to lose its effectiveness. too cold and the oil cant evaporate off the water build up etc it gets from the engine. so yea ur probably running ur oil a bit cold.
Maybe when ur on the street it might be worth wrapping the tank in a blanket of sorts to try heat the oil up a bit and blocking off the cooler.
Basically the conclusion i came to is it doesnt really matter what temp it is in the tank or pre cooler etc all you really care about is the temp that its entering the engine/ in the engine at.
122F is really cold personally. We aim for around 100deg C to 120/130deg C absolute max. (210F - 260F) anything over this and my oil supplier says the oil will begin to lose its effectiveness. too cold and the oil cant evaporate off the water build up etc it gets from the engine. so yea ur probably running ur oil a bit cold.
Maybe when ur on the street it might be worth wrapping the tank in a blanket of sorts to try heat the oil up a bit and blocking off the cooler.
Thank you. We changed our oil temp sensor to “after” oil cooler. Knowing the 12qrt dry sump is in trunk and traveling all that way, curious where you guys would measure oil temps? Before or after oil cooler?
Highest temp thus far with new 12qt dry sump has been just after a few street pulls at idle with 122 degrees F* with the oil cooler covered/blocked from air cooling. Normal operating oil temps at normal cruise appear to be 98 degrees F* with oil cooler covered.
Anyone have a “after oil cooler” at-track-temp-range with dry sump?
Highest temp thus far with new 12qt dry sump has been just after a few street pulls at idle with 122 degrees F* with the oil cooler covered/blocked from air cooling. Normal operating oil temps at normal cruise appear to be 98 degrees F* with oil cooler covered.
Anyone have a “after oil cooler” at-track-temp-range with dry sump?
Mar 8, 2019, 01:03 PM
#159
I use this with my dry sump kit so no oil over cooling
inbuilt thermostat with the oil filter housing
you can also buy the heating pads that stick to the tank to warm the oil up too
http://www.improvedracing.com/oil-co...tat-p-781.html
inbuilt thermostat with the oil filter housing
you can also buy the heating pads that stick to the tank to warm the oil up too
http://www.improvedracing.com/oil-co...tat-p-781.html
Last edited by Andrew b; Mar 10, 2019 at 04:12 AM.
Mar 8, 2019, 03:22 PM
#160
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
So, Norris Designs kti works with factory air conditioning now...
http://www.norrisdesigns.com/proddetail.asp?prod=DRYS01
http://www.norrisdesigns.com/proddetail.asp?prod=DRYS01
Mar 8, 2019, 04:22 PM
#161
So, Norris Designs kti works with factory air conditioning now...
http://www.norrisdesigns.com/proddetail.asp?prod=DRYS01
http://www.norrisdesigns.com/proddetail.asp?prod=DRYS01
Norris Designs is doing some impressive engineering. I didn't realize they had an Evo twincharger kit. They also have an elusive 97mm crankshaft option for 2.3LR builds but it's not cheap.
Jul 7, 2019, 09:22 AM
#162
Looks like Pace has recently released a 4G dry sump kit. Looks to be the most economical kit I've seen yet. Runs about $3k including a tank, just needs to add some lines.
https://www.rosssport.com/Brands/PAC...ACEEVO49-DS-V3
https://www.rosssport.com/Brands/PAC...ACEEVO49-DS-V3
Jul 10, 2019, 05:17 AM
#163
Thinking hard about whether to go with a better wet sump or just bite the bullet. Better now than after grenading my engine.
What are the inconveniences of a dry sump other than more expensive and complex oil changes?
What is the procedure to start a car that has been sitting for a week? Do you need to remove the belt and spin the pump manually?
Any other hidden issues to know? What maintenance is required of these systems? Are any of the parts surprisingly short-lived, especially the pump?
i’m more worried about regretting the hassle factor than writing a big check up front. My car is not a daily driver at all, but I want to keep plates on it. All street miles are test & tune. I trailer to events.
Lastly, is this an install that a DIY’er can do? Engine stays in the car for the install I assume?
Great thread.
What are the inconveniences of a dry sump other than more expensive and complex oil changes?
What is the procedure to start a car that has been sitting for a week? Do you need to remove the belt and spin the pump manually?
Any other hidden issues to know? What maintenance is required of these systems? Are any of the parts surprisingly short-lived, especially the pump?
i’m more worried about regretting the hassle factor than writing a big check up front. My car is not a daily driver at all, but I want to keep plates on it. All street miles are test & tune. I trailer to events.
Lastly, is this an install that a DIY’er can do? Engine stays in the car for the install I assume?
Great thread.
Jul 10, 2019, 07:48 AM
#164
I'm still leaning towards the Daily with the 3 stage, can, and super damper.
https://www.daileyengineering.com/mitsubishi-evo-4-9/
It's not an "easy" install with the engine in the car for sure.
https://www.daileyengineering.com/mitsubishi-evo-4-9/
It's not an "easy" install with the engine in the car for sure.
Jul 10, 2019, 03:32 PM
#165
Thinking hard about whether to go with a better wet sump or just bite the bullet. Better now than after grenading my engine.
What are the inconveniences of a dry sump other than more expensive and complex oil changes?
What is the procedure to start a car that has been sitting for a week? Do you need to remove the belt and spin the pump manually?
Any other hidden issues to know? What maintenance is required of these systems? Are any of the parts surprisingly short-lived, especially the pump?
i’m more worried about regretting the hassle factor than writing a big check up front. My car is not a daily driver at all, but I want to keep plates on it. All street miles are test & tune. I trailer to events.
Lastly, is this an install that a DIY’er can do? Engine stays in the car for the install I assume?
Great thread.
What are the inconveniences of a dry sump other than more expensive and complex oil changes?
What is the procedure to start a car that has been sitting for a week? Do you need to remove the belt and spin the pump manually?
Any other hidden issues to know? What maintenance is required of these systems? Are any of the parts surprisingly short-lived, especially the pump?
i’m more worried about regretting the hassle factor than writing a big check up front. My car is not a daily driver at all, but I want to keep plates on it. All street miles are test & tune. I trailer to events.
Lastly, is this an install that a DIY’er can do? Engine stays in the car for the install I assume?
Great thread.