Rear Toe Arms who uses what
Jan 15, 2018, 12:04 PM
#16
Evolved Member
Jan 15, 2018, 01:45 PM
#17
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by ayoustin
I supposed it's worth mentioning that Mooresport sells these extremely affordable toe arms lol: http://mooresport.com/en/street/131-...et-billet.html
Jan 16, 2018, 08:55 AM
#18
EvoM Guru
Thread Starter
Also keen to try their tow arms.
I know theres a few issues with the quality. or was not sure if there still is.
Somebody with an evo 6 here racing had a bump with a guy into a hairpin turn which was enough to damage the toe arm.
Came out the hairpin down the back straight and 1/3 down the straight the arm snapped and he speared into the wall doing huge damage to his car.
Also our govt transport agency that certifies modifications to road cars here has the brand on a watchlist.
But on the flipside people dont seem to be having many issues with the quality these days?
Jan 16, 2018, 08:56 AM
#19
EvoM Guru
Thread Starter
sorry. Didnt see the post.. here http://fluro.de/index.php/en/product...sw14x15msdruck
Jan 16, 2018, 09:41 AM
#20
Evolved Member
I have no problem sharing everything.. I can even give you the 3d files for the machined bits.. I ended up using off the shelf threaded ends and the hex part in the middle.. as it was cheaper..
the arms are done so to be same length as stock with a bit of room to shorten them and much more room to lengthen..
the body is 226 mm
the idea is to turn the OE toe adjuster so that it is fully in, and then extend the arm itself. That way you have the longest possible arm for least toe change in bump...
some of parts are from here :https://chassisparts.com/rod-ends.html
rod ends are from fluro.de who make real nice rod ends but if I was in the USA I would use Aurora.
the main problem is making the adapters that go into the chassis and upright.. those you need to have turned on a lathe...
initially I had all of it made locally but in the end went down one size of tubing and bought off the shelf tube ends from chassisshop
Attachment 324944
the arms are done so to be same length as stock with a bit of room to shorten them and much more room to lengthen..
the body is 226 mm
the idea is to turn the OE toe adjuster so that it is fully in, and then extend the arm itself. That way you have the longest possible arm for least toe change in bump...
some of parts are from here :https://chassisparts.com/rod-ends.html
rod ends are from fluro.de who make real nice rod ends but if I was in the USA I would use Aurora.
the main problem is making the adapters that go into the chassis and upright.. those you need to have turned on a lathe...
initially I had all of it made locally but in the end went down one size of tubing and bought off the shelf tube ends from chassisshop
Attachment 324944
Jan 16, 2018, 12:34 PM
#21
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
i have the hardrace camber arms.
Also keen to try their tow arms.
I know theres a few issues with the quality. or was not sure if there still is.
Somebody with an evo 6 here racing had a bump with a guy into a hairpin turn which was enough to damage the toe arm.
Came out the hairpin down the back straight and 1/3 down the straight the arm snapped and he speared into the wall doing huge damage to his car.
Also our govt transport agency that certifies modifications to road cars here has the brand on a watchlist.
But on the flipside people dont seem to be having many issues with the quality these days?
Also keen to try their tow arms.
I know theres a few issues with the quality. or was not sure if there still is.
Somebody with an evo 6 here racing had a bump with a guy into a hairpin turn which was enough to damage the toe arm.
Came out the hairpin down the back straight and 1/3 down the straight the arm snapped and he speared into the wall doing huge damage to his car.
Also our govt transport agency that certifies modifications to road cars here has the brand on a watchlist.
But on the flipside people dont seem to be having many issues with the quality these days?
I had a 4 tire off this weekend, as well as some pretty decent bounces off of curbs. Unfortunately, with car-to-car contact, it's impossible to say how hard of a shunt that arm took.
Jan 17, 2018, 01:48 AM
#23
EvoM Guru
Thread Starter
I have no problem sharing everything.. I can even give you the 3d files for the machined bits.. I ended up using off the shelf threaded ends and the hex part in the middle.. as it was cheaper..
the arms are done so to be same length as stock with a bit of room to shorten them and much more room to lengthen..
the body is 226 mm
the idea is to turn the OE toe adjuster so that it is fully in, and then extend the arm itself. That way you have the longest possible arm for least toe change in bump...
some of parts are from here :https://chassisparts.com/rod-ends.html
rod ends are from fluro.de who make real nice rod ends but if I was in the USA I would use Aurora.
the main problem is making the adapters that go into the chassis and upright.. those you need to have turned on a lathe...
initially I had all of it made locally but in the end went down one size of tubing and bought off the shelf tube ends from chassisshop
the arms are done so to be same length as stock with a bit of room to shorten them and much more room to lengthen..
the body is 226 mm
the idea is to turn the OE toe adjuster so that it is fully in, and then extend the arm itself. That way you have the longest possible arm for least toe change in bump...
some of parts are from here :https://chassisparts.com/rod-ends.html
rod ends are from fluro.de who make real nice rod ends but if I was in the USA I would use Aurora.
the main problem is making the adapters that go into the chassis and upright.. those you need to have turned on a lathe...
initially I had all of it made locally but in the end went down one size of tubing and bought off the shelf tube ends from chassisshop
Thats awesome thank you for that. If your willing to share the 3d files that would be amazing. saves alot of work. Think i will have a go at making some.
Why not just weld the nut in down one end? then you dont have to cut the tube and keep it perfectly straight?
So just to make sure i have it correct in my head.
You need: 2 rod ends.
1 length of crmo tube.
2 of these and 2 of the lh thread version
https://chassisparts.com/rod-ends/tu...ht-thread.html
And the machined adapter parts to go into upright etc?
Am i missing anything out?
12mm rod ends or 14mm?
Jan 17, 2018, 03:19 AM
#24
Evolved Member
no, this is not a nut.. it is just a hollow hex section that you weld onto the tube.. Tube is single piece....
or you can just ommit that and hold the tube with wise grips when you tighten the ends...
I tried having a hex section at the end of the tube but there is no space to hold it when tightening the little counter nut.
14 mm rod ends. 12mm could be used on the inside but outside one needs 14 mm bolt really..
I will compile all the files and put up for download a bit later..
or you can just ommit that and hold the tube with wise grips when you tighten the ends...
I tried having a hex section at the end of the tube but there is no space to hold it when tightening the little counter nut.
14 mm rod ends. 12mm could be used on the inside but outside one needs 14 mm bolt really..
I will compile all the files and put up for download a bit later..
Jan 17, 2018, 08:50 AM
#25
EvoM Guru
Thread Starter
no, this is not a nut.. it is just a hollow hex section that you weld onto the tube.. Tube is single piece....
or you can just ommit that and hold the tube with wise grips when you tighten the ends...
I tried having a hex section at the end of the tube but there is no space to hold it when tightening the little counter nut.
14 mm rod ends. 12mm could be used on the inside but outside one needs 14 mm bolt really..
I will compile all the files and put up for download a bit later..
or you can just ommit that and hold the tube with wise grips when you tighten the ends...
I tried having a hex section at the end of the tube but there is no space to hold it when tightening the little counter nut.
14 mm rod ends. 12mm could be used on the inside but outside one needs 14 mm bolt really..
I will compile all the files and put up for download a bit later..
that hollow hex section is pretty cool so it just slides over the top?
I will start getting some 14mm rod ends and some 4130 tube i think.
Jan 17, 2018, 09:26 AM
#26
Evolved Member
https://chassisparts.com/gussets/aanlasmoer.html
the jig was made so that I could easily rotate the tube while welding while keeping ocnstant torch angle and distance..
in USA chassisshop.com has that stuff, if it is more convinient for you..
Jan 18, 2018, 08:03 AM
#27
EvoM Guru
Thread Starter
yes it is this
https://chassisparts.com/gussets/aanlasmoer.html
the jig was made so that I could easily rotate the tube while welding while keeping ocnstant torch angle and distance..
in USA chassisshop.com has that stuff, if it is more convinient for you..
https://chassisparts.com/gussets/aanlasmoer.html
the jig was made so that I could easily rotate the tube while welding while keeping ocnstant torch angle and distance..
in USA chassisshop.com has that stuff, if it is more convinient for you..
Ah no its not unfortunately
im in new zealand.I do have a local supplier for the rod ends and the weld in thread bits for the rod ends.
I can always mill up a nut like that or order one in from ebay or somewhere i guess.
Yea i can see why you made the jig now. makes sense and pretty clever.
Ill get the rod ends and bar today. just need to figure out what needs to be spun up on the lathe now!
Jan 18, 2018, 09:38 AM
#28
Evolved Member
what kind of file would work for you?
Jan 19, 2018, 01:46 PM
#29
EvoM Guru
Thread Starter
Jan 20, 2018, 11:41 AM
#30
Evolved Member
ok, I will make drawings and send you also the solidworks and some other 3d file.. just in case..
