Bee-Raddd

Hey All.

Whos got custom or aftermarket rear toe arms?

What brands do u recommend etc? I need to upgrade mine as i cant get camber reqd without losing toe.

Hardrace is the first and cheapest option available but worried they might not be very good?

GregM

iTrader: (1)

I just bought some Hardrace ones, but haven't driven the car yet with them. Doing some mods to the front of my car for increasing caster and track width, so once done next week, will get it in for a wheel alignment and see how they go.

Hardrace are on special at Redline until the 26th

kikiturbo

I made some custom ones..

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

Those loose great though I would be careful with the Taper and Flat. Its basically over constrained and only one those is doing anything. Better to rely one one or the other.

What are the ball joint/rod ends from?

Ayoustin

iTrader: (2)

Are those any lighter than stock?

kikiturbo

taper is for location, flat holds it in place really, although both are nice fit...

I just did new tube section with hex in the middle so I can hold it better when adjusting, and will uprate the bolt to 12.9 instead of 10.9 as it is now..

I will weigh both today and let you know.. I was never interested in weight becaue the originals cracked so I nedeed new arms.. We could make it lighter with aluminium spacers but I am not sure if it will be hard enough to hold the bolt tq

Rod ends are FLURO Motorsport .. those are PTFE lined and have reduced clearences

Bee-Raddd

ooo those r pretty

kikiturbo

ok, I checked... it is 100 grams heavier than stock item... but it does have sphericals on both ends (14 mm ones) instead of rubber on OE.. I think it is overbuilt a bit but I sleep well. It could be made lighter by making this adjustment ring thinner, and maybe doing the adapter that goes into the knuckle out of alu or Ti..




here is version 2, I made this TIG welding jig to get nice welds on tube ends..

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

What size tubing/wall thickness is the tie rod?

kikiturbo

v2 is 30x1.5 mm, V1 was 32x2 mm.... everything is Crmo... 25crmo4 or 4130 in US

I think the inside chassis mount will fail before anything in that arm..

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

Very nice. 1.25"x.060" 4130 is probably pretty good for weight and strength. We used 1.5"x.090" for the tie-rod on my off-road truck, worked fine, and they were 14" long

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

2nd .060 is just fine for a toe arm if not overkill. I use 1.25 x 0.95" 4130 for the trailing arm on front control arms. You break a wheel before breaking any of these

kikiturbo

yes, even the smaller one is overkill... I dimensioned it on the rod end strength... as I said, it will pull the chassis mount way before it breaks...

a lighter solution would be something like 25x1.5 tube with 12mm rod end on the inside, maybe even 12 mm on both ends.. that would work too... However, 14 mm rod end will have longer service life and is easier fit with the upright, both of which were considerations....

much lighter solution would be a fixed toe arm, with no adjustment.. and that could be done easily... however, having toe adjustment on the arm itself gives the opportunity to run the inside chassis adjusters fully in which lowers the bump toe change a bit... Also with the way the outer asttachment is done, via rod end, you could easily adjust bump toe change with some spacers...

oddly enough my front arms are not adjustable.. not in the usual way anyhow..

Bee-Raddd

Any chance u can post the exact links to the rod ends u used?

Ayoustin

iTrader: (2)

I supposed it's worth mentioning that Mooresport sells these extremely affordable toe arms lol: http://mooresport.com/en/street/131-...et-billet.html