Post your competition suspension set ups here!
#16
EvoM Guru
Thread Starter
Do you know roughly your front and rear weight? Im 900/600 but should be 875/575 after this winter. That puts my NF in the 3.3f/3.55r range. So its keeping right in the middle of that 0.2-0.3hz split. I think I could even go stiffer in the rear depending how things are on concrete. But this is AX where I want the car to move because I need to yaw around element.
Track is certainly different where you need more of that throttle balance and need to keep stability to confidently push it. Similar to my Hill Climb friends setup, need to be able to push with out losing the rear.
And thats correct, no front bar. My geometry is fixed just about as good as I can get without making the car wider, and stiff enough overall that I can get to only using a bar as a trim device on the end that needs to be un-stuck. One thing we have noticed as a trend, every time we soften the front bar and stiffen the front spring, we get faster. So decided to go all the way and get that weight off the car at the same time. At first it was terrible on race tires and pretty fine on street tires. Just took more rear spring and less rear bar and things really started to work.
My rates certainly sound stiff on paper, but the car is totally composed even on our terribly bumpy lot. It just seems to absorb it all no problem to the point Im just not concerned with it anymore.
Track is certainly different where you need more of that throttle balance and need to keep stability to confidently push it. Similar to my Hill Climb friends setup, need to be able to push with out losing the rear.
And thats correct, no front bar. My geometry is fixed just about as good as I can get without making the car wider, and stiff enough overall that I can get to only using a bar as a trim device on the end that needs to be un-stuck. One thing we have noticed as a trend, every time we soften the front bar and stiffen the front spring, we get faster. So decided to go all the way and get that weight off the car at the same time. At first it was terrible on race tires and pretty fine on street tires. Just took more rear spring and less rear bar and things really started to work.
My rates certainly sound stiff on paper, but the car is totally composed even on our terribly bumpy lot. It just seems to absorb it all no problem to the point Im just not concerned with it anymore.
Im going to cornerweight it in the next month or 2 so ill know exactly what the cross weights are which hopefully then i might be able to figure out the correct spring rates. We put a stiffer front bar in and put it on full hard and found gains but i think that just proves that my front spring rate is waaaay too low at 12kg. esp with the aero and grip ive got on 280 slicks.
Im trying to slowly upgrade to all your custom wizardry! just sent you a PM actually. if you could let me know how much your LCA's are also i might package them together.
#18
Evolving Member
iTrader: (6)
Megan Street Coilovers (Fronts 7kg / Rear 8kg)
Whitelines 26mm front sway bar
Whitelines 24mm rear sway bar
GT Spec Front Strut Bar
Whitelines Precision Steering Kit
Whitelines Rear Diff Bushings
dd Aluminum lower control arms
Solid driveshaft bushings
ABS deleted
STM Staging Brake Kit
Plate swapped Evo 9 rear diff
Qualfe LSD center diff
255/40r17 Bridgestone Potenza RE11A tires
Level of competition: Moderate. Car is setup for use on the street or drag strip
Few things I would like to do is go with a smaller brake kit on the front that would allow me to runs 15" inch wheel and a 24.5x8.5x15 slick. Otherwise I am overall happy with my setup.
Whitelines 26mm front sway bar
Whitelines 24mm rear sway bar
GT Spec Front Strut Bar
Whitelines Precision Steering Kit
Whitelines Rear Diff Bushings
dd Aluminum lower control arms
Solid driveshaft bushings
ABS deleted
STM Staging Brake Kit
Plate swapped Evo 9 rear diff
Qualfe LSD center diff
255/40r17 Bridgestone Potenza RE11A tires
Level of competition: Moderate. Car is setup for use on the street or drag strip
Few things I would like to do is go with a smaller brake kit on the front that would allow me to runs 15" inch wheel and a 24.5x8.5x15 slick. Otherwise I am overall happy with my setup.
#21
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Seems like Im pretty much at or beyond the limit of these flags and the crazier the rate the more it seems to matter. I may try and snag a set of 1300s but wont get a chance to test on concrete before nebraska. So, the question is do I just get them and swap in now or leave it all alone and compensate with air pressure at Nats?
#23
Evolved Member
iTrader: (3)
FA510's 10k front and 11k rear.
The rear fork mount thingy is a little modded(see screenshot below)
Super pro offset lower control arm bushings in the front.
Whiteline roll center kit in the front.
Reardiff restacked
Rear diff/trailing arm and mustache bar poly bushings.
265/35/18 on 18x18.5 works wheels
Around neutral rake or a tad lower in the rear.
Here is a video of my rear suspension spliced with my autocross run. Pretty cool to see the rear in action.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pb0e...ature=youtu.be
Got some extended mount in the rear from fortune auto(had to get the black mount part weld work to make it fit) so I can fit helper springs and have them work their full range.
Original left modified right
Modified sitting static
The rear fork mount thingy is a little modded(see screenshot below)
Super pro offset lower control arm bushings in the front.
Whiteline roll center kit in the front.
Reardiff restacked
Rear diff/trailing arm and mustache bar poly bushings.
265/35/18 on 18x18.5 works wheels
Around neutral rake or a tad lower in the rear.
Here is a video of my rear suspension spliced with my autocross run. Pretty cool to see the rear in action.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pb0e...ature=youtu.be
Got some extended mount in the rear from fortune auto(had to get the black mount part weld work to make it fit) so I can fit helper springs and have them work their full range.
Original left modified right
Modified sitting static
The following users liked this post:
Welcome2GoodBur (Jul 29, 2018)
#24
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Watching that vid really looks like you're over dampened on rebound in the rear. You can see when it rolls over the tire lifts before it stops moving even. If you go of the notion of being somewhere around 0.65 of critically damped, that definitely shouldnt happened. This would be a scenario where damping is > 1. I wonder if its in feel of trying to compensate for probably needing more rear spring.
Now I could certainly be doing the same, and its probably something I should take a look at on my own car.
Now I could certainly be doing the same, and its probably something I should take a look at on my own car.
#28
EvoM Community Team Leader
iTrader: (60)
My seams are a bit messed up due to "emergency" lifting at the track LOL. Mine end at about 1/8" below the flange where the lower part of the fender bolts to the car (see pic below). From that spot, I am 7 9/16" from the ground, or 192mm. So, give or take however much rail should be sitting below that fender tab. Hopefully that makes sense LOL. Google image search failed me and it's too hot/I'm too lazy to go out and take a pic
Last edited by kaj; Jul 29, 2018 at 03:21 PM.
#30
Evolved Member
iTrader: (3)
Watching that vid really looks like you're over dampened on rebound in the rear. You can see when it rolls over the tire lifts before it stops moving even. If you go of the notion of being somewhere around 0.65 of critically damped, that definitely shouldnt happened. This would be a scenario where damping is > 1. I wonder if its in feel of trying to compensate for probably needing more rear spring.
Now I could certainly be doing the same, and its probably something I should take a look at on my own car.
Now I could certainly be doing the same, and its probably something I should take a look at on my own car.