Ayoustin

iTrader: (2)

A 315 R7 is much wider than a street tire 315. You won't be able to fit that without using aftermarket body panels.

LV///R

iTrader: (36)

I'm not sure you can make a blanket statement like that. The Rival S has almost the same dimensions, for example:

Hoosier R7
Section Width - 12.5"
Tread Width - 11.8"

BFG Rival S - 200tw street tire
Section Width - 12.6"
Tread Width - 11.4"

MrAWD

Hoosiers are know of running wider than their numbers are showing, so I would not be surprised if, mounted on the wheel, they are wider then the rest...

LV///R

iTrader: (36)

I ran on both 285mm RE71R's and 285 Hoosiers last year. I had both tires lined up to each other and they were practically identical. The numbers listed on Tirerack show the same sort of thing. There was no rubbing when I switched from the RE71's to the A7's either, and I'm on a very clearance limited setup out back (rolled/pulled rear fenders enough to make it work).

Maybe there are examples of what you are saying is true. But I hear this all of the time and it's not always true.

MrAWD

I agree with you! This was the case in the past. Now with existence of those new "street" tires (RE71s and Rivals), things might be closer or even the same!

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

I think the top street tires (Bridgestone and BFG at least) have upped their game so much they're also pushing the size qualifications.

Ive been working on my plan for the 18x12s now that I have the wheels. The F14 in deep (not super deep) with +32 offset ends up being heavier than I expected because all the extra material at the hub for getting the offset. It makes sense when you look at the spoke shape though. The guy had talked me out of doing super deep cause of caliper clearance but now Im wishing I would have done super deep to remove some of that center hub weight.

The other oddity, with a 20mm spacer I only have 11 turns of thread engagement on ARP studs. I had probably double that before so the seat thickness is huge. Wouldn't be an issue but we need such a big different in offset front and rear.

A friend brought it up that I could run the +20 wheels (volk and I think weds) that are much lighter and just recess the rear hub for that ~10mm difference. So I'll make these work for now while deciding how to make a more common offset work.


One of the thoughts Im still mulling over is to run my longer X length billet arms (+20mm) which will add to SAI but let me run without spacer, or just go back to a steel lug nut and run these as they are.

psushoe

iTrader: (8)

That is a super thick wheel. I have 25mm spacers for the street wheels (18x10.5 rpf1) and have way more than enough thread. Pretty sure it goes past all the threads in my extended lugs.

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, was definitely weird. They wont work at all without some extended lug and I've had good luck with OEM mitsu lugs in the rear. So looks like I'll have to change those out this winter also. All my enkei wheels have a normal seat depth so not sure whats up with these.

Balrok

iTrader: (15)

Pic with just the wheel bolted on?

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

Hmm, for some reason its not liking me linking directly to the IG post.

Its the latest post on my IG though, https://www.instagram.com/ssb_design/

kaj

iTrader: (60)

Going with over fenders, I take it...?

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

Originally I was going with over fenders but now I'm keeping any fiberglass off my car. It's just too brittle and all the guys I've seen with them have been dealing with cracking too often. So I'm going cheesy but durable with ABS bubble flares. I may do something different later down the road but its low on my priority list

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

That said, what I'm doing to make this all work is totally not SP legal. Maybe I should be making a SM 335 thread. It's already been done by another super fast SM Evo I'll leave nameless. But it's a big leap from 285s most are use to.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

Please let me know which fit. There's like 50 cheap sets on ebay, but I can't confirm which actually work.

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

I did a fair bit of researching and found you really want ABS. Fiberglass is too stiff to form around things and of course crack. Poly deforms in direct sunlight (another evo guy on 315s has issues with his original set). The ABS is a good balance between durable and temp resiliant. But you can use a heat gun and help them form to the lines around body (or so Ive read). And theyre cheap!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/4PCs-Univer...53.m2749.l2649

This is what I bought. Its 4 flares, 2 different sizes. If I end up running only 1 size, I'll just order another set to get another 2.