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Cooling Setups for Track Use

 
Old Sep 25, 2018, 09:56 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by kaj View Post
agreed. The lack of acidity/corrosion/scaling is a bonus.
This is the thing I find most appealing about this stuff. Have you opened up your cooling system at all to peek into the engine to see if that holds true and there's no corrosion?
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Old Sep 26, 2018, 01:39 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by ayoustin View Post
This is the thing I find most appealing about this stuff. Have you opened up your cooling system at all to peek into the engine to see if that holds true and there's no corrosion?
All I can see is the top of the radiator core.
​​​​​ Clean as a whistle. It's not a theory or claim, though; it's the properties of the fluid. It can't turn acidic, corrode, etc. I'm glad because it is expensive, however I wouldn't mind if I had to swap it out occasionally...I'd still use it to protect my OEM radiator. I've been on it for two years. As long as I keep the system sealed, I'm good to go.
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Old Sep 26, 2018, 08:39 AM
  #18  
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The issue I have with that stuff in motorsport application is it's ridiculous boiling point. Those couple of times I've boiled over at a stop because I was distracted and wasn't staring at the temp gauge and my fan power had come loose I'm thankful I had water to tell me "hey ya know, look here". Add to the fact that it's GONNA get changed every year regardless of what someone says and the $ isn't worth the squeeze to me at least in my weather region. On the other hand if I was in sub freezing temps all the time, maybe.

On a street car I'm gonna keep around forever like I was Leno? Sure, all day, good stuff then.
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Old Sep 26, 2018, 10:15 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Balrok View Post
The issue I have with that stuff in motorsport application is it's ridiculous boiling point. Those couple of times I've boiled over at a stop because I was distracted and wasn't staring at the temp gauge and my fan power had come loose I'm thankful I had water to tell me "hey ya know, look here". Add to the fact that it's GONNA get changed every year regardless of what someone says and the $ isn't worth the squeeze to me at least in my weather region. On the other hand if I was in sub freezing temps all the time, maybe.

On a street car I'm gonna keep around forever like I was Leno? Sure, all day, good stuff then.
For sure, legit reasons. I'm okay with watching water temps and the cost vs having to swap away from the stock radiator. For me, it's all benefits and my only downside is cost.
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Old Sep 26, 2018, 02:29 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by kaj View Post
For sure, legit reasons. I'm okay with watching water temps and the cost vs having to swap away from the stock radiator. For me, it's all benefits and my only downside is cost.
Curious then what would "make you" swap away from the stock radiator? But ya if they made one closer to the "high operating temp" then it'd be more advisable. Did you drop temp too?

Last edited by Balrok; Sep 26, 2018 at 02:36 PM.
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Old Sep 26, 2018, 02:42 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Balrok View Post
Curious then what would "make you" swap away from the stock radiator? Because temp and corrosion are controllable, so i'm wondering what else you found.
worst case scenario: typical failed end tank, since OEM seems to eventually give on in pressure and heat . Then I'd probably go aftermarket to prevent it from happening again, though I would prefer not to.
All the research I did showed Evans to be very friendly to plastic end tanks.
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Old Sep 27, 2018, 10:24 AM
  #22  
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could be the stock water temp sensor going bad.
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Old Sep 27, 2018, 04:40 PM
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Old Sep 27, 2018, 08:58 PM
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All signs point to a bad HG or not flat surface. When I had a slight HG problem on my 8 the exact same thing happened. Nothing on the street but problems at track.

Then it got to be a problem every time I got into boost.

I track an Evo 10 now but here are my data points:

Setup:
Radiator - stock
Radiator fan - stock
Radiator cap - stock
Thermostat - stock
Oil cooler - Setrab
Fluid - OEM coolant
Water temp gauge - stock
Oil temp gauge - Kalvico wired into Racecapture unit
Power/torque - 530/360 (track) 640/410 (street) at the wheels

My water temps rarely go over 200, even on a 100F+ track. Here is a full track session on a 3 mile track in about 72F ambient: https://datazap.me/u/razorlab/thunde...-8-13-15-18-19
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Old Sep 28, 2018, 04:54 AM
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^ Crazy to me that your cooling system takes that kind of power level in stride...

Love these cars!
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Old Sep 28, 2018, 08:37 AM
  #26  
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I had a similar problem with overheating when my Fan Control Unit went bad. This was during lapping days, with less power than what you are putting down.
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Old Sep 30, 2018, 09:42 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by honda-guy View Post
could be the stock water temp sensor going bad.
I go through about a gallon of water in 10 laps at ABCC. Water is definitely getting pushed out. Thanks for the thought though, I considered that being a culprit last year but it was the same symptoms.


Originally Posted by razorlab View Post
All signs point to a bad HG or not flat surface. When I had a slight HG problem on my 8 the exact same thing happened. Nothing on the street but problems at track.

Then it got to be a problem every time I got into boost.

I track an Evo 10 now but here are my data points:

Setup:
Radiator - stock
Radiator fan - stock
Radiator cap - stock
Thermostat - stock
Oil cooler - Setrab
Fluid - OEM coolant
Water temp gauge - stock
Oil temp gauge - Kalvico wired into Racecapture unit
Power/torque - 530/360 (track) 640/410 (street) at the wheels

My water temps rarely go over 200, even on a 100F+ track. Here is a full track session on a 3 mile track in about 72F ambient: https://datazap.me/u/razorlab/thunde...-8-13-15-18-19
Yea I think it's a deck problem, might just be a surface finish problem even though the deck is flat on the block. Cool to see the X has as good of a cooling system as the 8/9.
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Old Oct 2, 2018, 11:09 AM
  #28  
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Setup:
Radiator - Metal aftermarket (chinese lol)
Radiator fan - 10" slimline x1
Radiator cap - Ralliart 1.2Bar (i think)
Thermostat - stock
Oil cooler - 25 Row
Fluid - water and Redline water wetter + small amount of anti freeze
Water temp gauge - Stock sensor feeding aftermarket ecu to race dash
Oil temp gauge - race dash
Power/torque - 700hp at the wheels

Interesting issue ur having there. I did a head gasket once and it was immediately obvious on track. i couldnt do a single lap without it completely overheating and shutting down. when we pulled the head it wasn a major blow either so i doubt youve done a head gasket if you can do a few laps with no issues. as soon as u hit boost it would blow coolant out the overflow all over ur windscreen at WOT

Personally i used to see the temp gauge on my dash drop down long straights till almost cold. So id definately be looking into your rad or cooling system being blocked. or your thermostat being stuffed. Do you still have aircon installed? the air con radiator can block alot of the airflow to your water radiator which could be an issue. You can also artificially trick the air con fan to run full time which may help with your cooling.

You definately do need to look into logging your temps however. Id also suggest setting up a water pressure gauge as this will indicate if your pressurising the water system via a head gasket failure. It will also warn you if you have a coolant leak before you run out of water as on track if you run out of water your going to do a head for certain due to the temps involved which is what happened to us.

I can personally go out and do 20 laps and not see my water temp get very high at all. and thats at 700hp So theres a restriction in either water flow/ pressure or airflow causing you an issue here for sure.
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Old Oct 2, 2018, 12:39 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by bee-raddd View Post

Interesting issue ur having there. I did a head gasket once and it was immediately obvious on track. i couldnt do a single lap without it completely overheating and shutting down. when we pulled the head it wasn a major blow either so i doubt youve done a head gasket if you can do a few laps with no issues. as soon as u hit boost it would blow coolant out the overflow all over ur windscreen at WOT

Personally i used to see the temp gauge on my dash drop down long straights till almost cold. So id definately be looking into your rad or cooling system being blocked. or your thermostat being stuffed. Do you still have aircon installed? the air con radiator can block alot of the airflow to your water radiator which could be an issue. You can also artificially trick the air con fan to run full time which may help with your cooling.

You definately do need to look into logging your temps however. Id also suggest setting up a water pressure gauge as this will indicate if your pressurising the water system via a head gasket failure. It will also warn you if you have a coolant leak before you run out of water as on track if you run out of water your going to do a head for certain due to the temps involved which is what happened to us.

I can personally go out and do 20 laps and not see my water temp get very high at all. and thats at 700hp So theres a restriction in either water flow/ pressure or airflow causing you an issue here for sure.
The head gasket is mostly likely compromised again. When I had these exact issues last season the fire ring on cyl 1 was completely gone and the head was warped in the same spot. No hvac in the car so no worry there. I do agree that I need to monitor water temps better. Unfortunately all my gauges are Defi link stuff that hasn't been made in over 10 years so finding a water temp gauge might take a couple months
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Old Oct 6, 2018, 10:24 AM
  #30  
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Don't delay repair, your head will corrode where its leaking, and so will your block.
No joke. And its challenging to add material and questionable especially to block.

So pull it, flatten block and head, than you know you are good.
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