Light Weight battery
Sep 2, 2016, 09:37 PM
#1
Light Weight battery
As the Evo has finally become my track only car I pulled the trigger on a light weight battery from pegasus racing. It is the small case antigravity 16 cell, I will post up what I find as I finally have a track day here in the PNW coming up in a few weeks!
Specs on the battery...
This 16-Cell "small case" 12 volt battery measures 4 5/8" L x 3 1/4" W x 5 1/4" H. It is smaller than most OEM batteries, but it offers a huge 480 cranking amps and weighs just 3.5 pounds. (We offer 2 lead-acid batteries that are close to this size, but they each deliver about 230 CA and weigh 11 pounds.) It has a similar cranking capacity to a 16Ah lead-acid battery* (our equivalent lead-acid batteries have 12Ah capacity and therefore can't crank as long).
Just saw the other battery thread LOL
My antigravity will be located in the trunk as I previously had the optima red top there due to my inter cooling piping. I also purchased the lithium charger and will be pulling my battery to store the car as it is driven maybe once a month not during race season, but with the loss of NASA here in the PNW I have hardly raced at all
George
Specs on the battery...
This 16-Cell "small case" 12 volt battery measures 4 5/8" L x 3 1/4" W x 5 1/4" H. It is smaller than most OEM batteries, but it offers a huge 480 cranking amps and weighs just 3.5 pounds. (We offer 2 lead-acid batteries that are close to this size, but they each deliver about 230 CA and weigh 11 pounds.) It has a similar cranking capacity to a 16Ah lead-acid battery* (our equivalent lead-acid batteries have 12Ah capacity and therefore can't crank as long).
Just saw the other battery thread LOL
My antigravity will be located in the trunk as I previously had the optima red top there due to my inter cooling piping. I also purchased the lithium charger and will be pulling my battery to store the car as it is driven maybe once a month not during race season, but with the loss of NASA here in the PNW I have hardly raced at all
George
Last edited by jedibow; Sep 2, 2016 at 10:16 PM.
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MinusPrevious (Sep 23, 2016)
Sep 3, 2016, 05:55 AM
#2
Never looked in the lithiums until now. What a diff in weight. I run the old school PC680 up front but wonder if i can run their smaller 12 cell in place of the 680? Their chart says it will work on engines up to 1.8L
Yes, post up your battery mount once you get it installed. The higher cost maybe offset by the longer life
Yes, post up your battery mount once you get it installed. The higher cost maybe offset by the longer life
Sep 3, 2016, 09:21 PM
#3
Never looked in the lithiums until now. What a diff in weight. I run the old school PC680 up front but wonder if i can run their smaller 12 cell in place of the 680? Their chart says it will work on engines up to 1.8L
Yes, post up your battery mount once you get it installed. The higher cost maybe offset by the longer life
Yes, post up your battery mount once you get it installed. The higher cost maybe offset by the longer life
Sep 4, 2016, 04:22 PM
#4
They offered me the 12 cell if it was a tow to the track vehicle, I opted for the 16 incase I decided to drive to the track. the 12 cell will work with the alternator, but there is a chance it won't turn over the car with if it is a hard start and I hope to be corn fed soon also.
Sep 7, 2016, 03:13 PM
#6
We've used lithium iron phosphate batteries for about a year now and it's incredible how small of a battery will crank over a car, but they are finicky little buggers. Make sure to keep them on a charger when you can as they will die very quickly with any small drain on them. It wouldn't be something I'd trust for a daily driver, but if you have access to a reliable jump box or a crew to push start, the weight savings is incredible.
Dan
Dan
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jedibow (Sep 7, 2016)
Sep 7, 2016, 06:53 PM
#7
Be wary of brand though and do your research. The markup for "clever marketing" with these is pretty unreal. My example Braille Batteries. I don't have the pics anymore but here's the facts with some slight venting:
I've replaced 2x B3121 batteries since I did the cockpit relocation years ago. When it came time for my third AGM battery I was curious why they died in 2 years even when religiously kept on a charger and was hesitant on spending another 299 on a new one. Esp since all this "racing" data they claim to have supports a better sounding product. After a couple hours I found out that Braille...doesn't even make they're (agm) batteries. They are an OEM of Eastern Penn with a sticker....huh. The EXACT same battery with a "Duracell" label at your local Batteries/Bulbs store is $149. After peeling the labels off of the Braille and Duracell the ugly head of the Penn part # reviled itself. That's right...One Hundred and Fifty bucks more Braille charges you for the same ******* thing....because it says racing right.
Take it a step further. The first battery of theirs I got was the "Carbon" version. The claim is all this resistance and such as you'd expect from a full carbon case....but it's not full....or Totally carbon fiber. It's a "sheet" with foam behind it. I almost s*** myself when we started pulling it off to reveal the exact same grey case battery. It may be some kind of CF but it isn't stiff really at all. This you get For ....Thats right....ANOTHER 150 bucks. Or in today's prices 152.25 more then their "regular" AGM version.
To review:
Generic Penn relabels (Duracell, Deka, etc) = 149
Braille relabel = 241.49~ (was 299)
Braille "carbon sticker" = 393.74~
As someone said in the SM thread - there are only so many Li cells available and everyone's rushing in for the re-branding party. So I check back on my size from Braille in Li and holy sh*t, $1999 dollars for what likely is someone elses but I haven't sat down with it yet. Take your time with this and post up similar findings if you nail it.
I've replaced 2x B3121 batteries since I did the cockpit relocation years ago. When it came time for my third AGM battery I was curious why they died in 2 years even when religiously kept on a charger and was hesitant on spending another 299 on a new one. Esp since all this "racing" data they claim to have supports a better sounding product. After a couple hours I found out that Braille...doesn't even make they're (agm) batteries. They are an OEM of Eastern Penn with a sticker....huh. The EXACT same battery with a "Duracell" label at your local Batteries/Bulbs store is $149. After peeling the labels off of the Braille and Duracell the ugly head of the Penn part # reviled itself. That's right...One Hundred and Fifty bucks more Braille charges you for the same ******* thing....because it says racing right.
Take it a step further. The first battery of theirs I got was the "Carbon" version. The claim is all this resistance and such as you'd expect from a full carbon case....but it's not full....or Totally carbon fiber. It's a "sheet" with foam behind it. I almost s*** myself when we started pulling it off to reveal the exact same grey case battery. It may be some kind of CF but it isn't stiff really at all. This you get For ....Thats right....ANOTHER 150 bucks. Or in today's prices 152.25 more then their "regular" AGM version.
To review:
Generic Penn relabels (Duracell, Deka, etc) = 149
Braille relabel = 241.49~ (was 299)
Braille "carbon sticker" = 393.74~
As someone said in the SM thread - there are only so many Li cells available and everyone's rushing in for the re-branding party. So I check back on my size from Braille in Li and holy sh*t, $1999 dollars for what likely is someone elses but I haven't sat down with it yet. Take your time with this and post up similar findings if you nail it.
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Sep 7, 2016, 09:08 PM
#8
Piggy backing off another line of thought. I've read that the OE alternator due to belt tension, may not be able to sustain 12V at high RPM. Or perhaps heat would also be a factor.
I wonder if running a LI battery with a low AH rating is enough to guarantee sufficient voltage all the time for racing applications where the alternator for whatever reason cant keep up?
I wonder if running a LI battery with a low AH rating is enough to guarantee sufficient voltage all the time for racing applications where the alternator for whatever reason cant keep up?
Sep 7, 2016, 09:21 PM
#9
Piggy backing off another line of thought. I've read that the OE alternator due to belt tension, may not be able to sustain 12V at high RPM. Or perhaps heat would also be a factor.
I wonder if running a LI battery with a low AH rating is enough to guarantee sufficient voltage all the time for racing applications where the alternator for whatever reason cant keep up?
I wonder if running a LI battery with a low AH rating is enough to guarantee sufficient voltage all the time for racing applications where the alternator for whatever reason cant keep up?
Sep 8, 2016, 10:55 AM
#10
Piggy backing off another line of thought. I've read that the OE alternator due to belt tension, may not be able to sustain 12V at high RPM. Or perhaps heat would also be a factor.
I wonder if running a LI battery with a low AH rating is enough to guarantee sufficient voltage all the time for racing applications where the alternator for whatever reason cant keep up?
I wonder if running a LI battery with a low AH rating is enough to guarantee sufficient voltage all the time for racing applications where the alternator for whatever reason cant keep up?
this is just speculation from my RC racing background.
Sep 8, 2016, 04:56 PM
#11
Piggy backing off another line of thought. I've read that the OE alternator due to belt tension, may not be able to sustain 12V at high RPM. Or perhaps heat would also be a factor.
I wonder if running a LI battery with a low AH rating is enough to guarantee sufficient voltage all the time for racing applications where the alternator for whatever reason cant keep up?
I wonder if running a LI battery with a low AH rating is enough to guarantee sufficient voltage all the time for racing applications where the alternator for whatever reason cant keep up?
Dan
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jedibow (Sep 9, 2016)
