kikiturbo

what you did will also benefit your camber when you turn the steering wheel... i.e. it will minimise camber loss during steering... Adding camber should mostly be done on the hub to struit connection, not on the top mounts.. Plus, the added caster will give you more camber gain when steering..

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

yea i mean the changes will be marginal at best, maybe half a degree of added caster - but i figure if i can achieve the same camber by turning the bolts instead, why not. i had heard camber add should be done mostly at the top, but yea ultimately i dont think it matters much how the camber is achieved.

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

Two different schools of thought and it sort of comes down to how much steering angle you use with how much roll angle your car acheives. Moving the top in increases slider axis angle and SAI. Slider axis adds to your camber gain and shortens instant centers, SAI reduces camber in steering though its effects are more felt at higher angles where caster has big effects at lower angles.

If you have need for tire clearance, then camber at the top is also where you need max things. Where you sacrifice running high SAI and potentially low Slider axis just for more tire clearance inboard. You could run lower slider axis and run spacers, but then you add scrub radius...

Isnt MacStrut fun!

FYI, I run a ton of SAI (in the 20deg range), lots of caster (~8deg), med camber (-3.8deg), and almost no slider axis angle because I push the strut all the way up against the inner fender well with 1-off extra long strut mounts. All just to get the front as narrow as I can on 315s. At least scrub is low

kaj

iTrader: (60)

So, it's *better* to dial in full camber at the strut, before adding to the top?

Balrok

iTrader: (15)

In general yes. The endgame, for all of us, is to be able to run 11 or 12" wheels, 315's square, all while being able to keep 8+ deg caster, -3.5+ deg camber, and be able to actually turn the wheel close to lock. Which is basically gonna be possible thanks to homeboy

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

may need some of dallas's camber plates, my cirodesigns are looking worse for the wear

Bee-Raddd

They are wicked.

Also something to look into is an offset insert. basically you make up an insert that goes through the original top strut hole. enlarge the strut to suit. then drill the bolt hole offset from the center of the new insert. which moves the center of the bolt inwards further giving more camber

Meathooker

iTrader: (2)

you got that backwards

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

If I was buying tires (winning has been good for me) I would spend $3500/yr in them. Engine costs about 5k and last ~5years. I may pull apart next winter and check my current motor which will be 3yrs. Maybe swap some bearings to refresh, or may do nothing.

Meathooker

iTrader: (2)

exactly.

we went through $1,600 in tires last weekend and there were only 3 cars in class so not enough competitors for contingency :/

Ayoustin

iTrader: (2)

For competition yes, absolutely. When you're getting 1-1.5 events out of a set of tires you can easily get into $5-8k a year just for tires.

But he's just talking about HPDE, way different world there haha

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

Im just talking a normal season of AX, 4 national events, 10-12 local events. Takes 2 full sets of tires and possibly some runs on street tires to make it to the end. If my class ran street tires I could do an entire season on 1 set but hoosiers dont last very long.

Bee-Raddd

yea we would spend 5 - 8k a year on tyres. however engines are a 1 off expense which is large but if done properly last several years

Balrok

iTrader: (15)

At this level every time I start to make a list just for the next event it's thousands for sure. For September:

1. New TRE rear diff
2. Dallas rear parts
3. Possibly new clutch. Getting into 4th and 5th is getting difficult again, I really don't want to rebuild the tranny again as it's only got what 4 events on it but if it's coming out.....
4. Yet more tires
5. 3rd set of wheels to replace 17's I sold
6. And more tires
7. The ever growing list of spares and small items to repair. Like my exhaust keeps jumping out of the rear muffler hanger and resting on my diffuser lol.

Balrok

iTrader: (15)

Small rant on STM. If your running their v2 "sealed" catch can setup, beware of them saying to make the rear port 10AN. I'm using 6AN and I'm filling the full quart if not more every session simply from the g forces pushing oil to the "suck zone" that is that rear fitting when on throttle. I'm thinking of switching it up and putting the back fitting on the intake with the PVC like oem and the baffled side fitting on the intake again.