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We don't get winter projects in Florida. Last NASA weekend is mid December, and looks like the first event for me in 2019 will be mid January. Planning to switch to an aftermarket turbo kit and make some aero changes to be ready for the first Gridlife Track Battle round and the schedule doesn't come out till December. Also buying another car to compete in NASA ST/TT3 and 4 as the Evo will be a 100% Gridlife/GTA car next season.
What's your reason for adding a trans cooler? i've considered it but decided against it because it adds weight and I'm not on track for more than 20 mins so the trans isn't getting crazy hot. Should probably do a temp sensor setup to make my decision.
2 reasons:
- Depending on the group I am running or the event, I have put an hour on track in a single session or until my brakes give up. While the stock setup should be fine with the right fluid choices and air flow to the existing housing for smaller sessions should be fine, I need to plan for peak potential load at a higher HP/torque count than I have today
- From discussions in past lives racing DSM's and other evos, with some pretty knowledgeable drivetrain guys that I trust, the statement that was often repeated is that even if you aren't overcooking the tranny fluid, wide range heat cycling due to "just enough cooling" will often attribute to long term damage on gearsets and weakening of key contact points. So cooling to reduce the peak temps in a tranny, while not solving for a overheat condition, will extend the life of key contact areas over prolonged use.
We don't get winter projects in Florida. Last NASA weekend is mid December, and looks like the first event for me in 2019 will be mid January. Planning to switch to an aftermarket turbo kit and make some aero changes to be ready for the first Gridlife Track Battle round and the schedule doesn't come out till December. Also buying another car to compete in NASA ST/TT3 and 4 as the Evo will be a 100% Gridlife/GTA car next season.
What kit are you looking at? I think the only way I could move away from stock frame would be for an efr setup. Also, god damn you're living good to have two racecars haha.
Originally Posted by Tevenor
2 reasons:
- Depending on the group I am running or the event, I have put an hour on track in a single session or until my brakes give up. While the stock setup should be fine with the right fluid choices and air flow to the existing housing for smaller sessions should be fine, I need to plan for peak potential load at a higher HP/torque count than I have today
- From discussions in past lives racing DSM's and other evos, with some pretty knowledgeable drivetrain guys that I trust, the statement that was often repeated is that even if you aren't overcooking the tranny fluid, wide range heat cycling due to "just enough cooling" will often attribute to long term damage on gearsets and weakening of key contact points. So cooling to reduce the peak temps in a tranny, while not solving for a overheat condition, will extend the life of key contact areas over prolonged use.
Those are some good points. I'll cross that decision bridge after I rebuild my trans and have temp data.
You should really measure trans temps before considering a cooler. I've never measured mine, but I've also never had it start shifting poorly (good sign you're overheating a synchro box). Would be interesting to at least hit the case with a temp gun after a 20 minute session. The TRE cooler plate for the 5 speed really helped 4th gear out in my trans. I now went to the PAR straight cut 4th, so that should really no longer be an issue for me.
For turbo kits, the Gen2 garret stuff does really well on stroker motors, especially with twin scroll housings. Pro Awesome's Gen2 3582 is a beast. And the a gen2 3076 would spool great and still make over 600.
Yea everything for the trans is up in the air until it gets torn down and inspected and I know what needs to be replaced.
As for turbo stuff the garrett stuff spools decent and it's nice they offer reverse rotation stuff but I don't like that the chra is still cast iron and I'm also trying to stay weight conscious. Adding a larger turbo with a heavier manifold, two wastegates and two dump pipes can add anywhere from 5-20lbs depending how you set it up. Plus dealing with vacuum lines for the gates. I like the MHI stuff because it's compact, simple and easy to work on. I only just wish FP offered a larger A/R twinscroll housing
1. Finish the front subframe, try it out on the car and if I am satisfied take the car to a restauration shop for underside cleaning and rust protection and new underseal
2. Weld up another exhaust manifold for my EFR kit as I sold the first one
3. Overhaul the big brembos
4. Fabricate the brake booster delete piece, remove abs, fit hydraulic brake cylinder onto the stock handbrake lever, install new brake lines and brake proportional valve
5. Put togeather the 5 spd box, install new 3rd and 3rd gear synchos and slider
6. Fab the shift lever
7. setup the plate front diff for less preload, overhaul the spare transfer box
8. Fab the new fuel tank
9. put car togeather
4. Fabricate the brake booster delete piece, remove abs, fit hydraulic brake cylinder onto the stock handbrake lever, install new brake lines and brake proportional valve
6. Fab the shift lever
Is there a reason you're using the stock handbrake for your hydraulic handbrake? It's pretty short and would be a pain to use I'd think. BPR just released a pretty nice mount for evos.
Oh and just to work backwards and confuse you all since its essentially almost summer for me and ive just finished all my winter upgrades this is what i did over winter:
Removed AYC rear diff, Gutted AYC system, Binned the AYC Diff, Stripped casing of all traces of anything AYC. Drilled a hole between the Diff and AYC chambers. Made up a cnc doubler/strengthener to strengthen the chamber wall between the diff and AYC chambers where they are known to crack and installed a Cusco RS 1.5Way LSD.
Mounted a floor mounted OBP Pedal box, Dual brake cylinders, Removed all the remaining factory ABS and braking stuff, Added a pressure sensor for my brake lights to come on,
Swapped to a Bosch 82mm E Throttle, In preparation to get auto blip clutchless downshifts if my tuner ever actually sets it up.
Installed SSB Offset tophats and larger offset holes in my lower strut to get more camber. now at 3.5deg max camber but want another deg out of it somewhere.
Strengthened up the boot chassis mounts to take more load from the rear wing. little nervous about the rear wing putting to much twisting force on my carbon lid so we are trying to get more contact with the chassis mounts.
Replaced standard carbon bonnet with a voltex one for better cooling and airflow, Upgraded front aero a bit more, Completely closed in between splitter and flat floor, Redesigned side skirts so they look a little nicer
Things i didnt get done:
I wanted to do a full motorsport spec rewire but got mucked around by a company called privatespec and ended up having to use paypal to get my money refunded. Found another great company to do the job but just ran out of budget at the end of the day
I also wanted to get ahold of a set of LCA's from Dallas but they also ran out of budget.
I also removed all the ABS system wiring and bridged the AYC ECU speed sensors etc all over to try get rid of AYC fault 65 (no comms between abs ecu and ayc) but it didnt get rid of my fault. not sure whats going on there im kinda just accepting i have to run with no ACD working at the moment. all the literature im finding on ACD system ECU wiring relates to the USDM ECU's which seem to have a slightly different pinout to the JDM spec with AYC ecu. Might be worth trying to get ahold of a USDM Spec ecu to see if that sorts out my fault.
Things in the works between now and christmas:
I have a potential naming rights sponsor in the works who will inject some much needed major cashflow which will make a big difference for us over the season. So hopefully that comes through!
First on my list is to get some SSB upgrights from yours truely. then id like to find somebody to re loom my ecu but thats going to be a major. we have 7 weeks between round 1 and round 2 of our race calendar but still be a risky and expensive undertaking.
Meant to comment thumbs up on the look. Is that the "cyber street" or cyber race version bumper? Looks like you have the whole catalog minus the rear fender lol.
Meant to comment thumbs up on the look. Is that the "cyber street" or cyber race version bumper? Looks like you have the whole catalog minus the rear fender lol.
Hahaha. Umm its the cyber time attack version bumper but we made the splitter bigger and our own canards. then the cyber double overfender, APR Widebody rear fenders, Varis sideskirts and Varis rear diffuser haha.
Is there a reason you're using the stock handbrake for your hydraulic handbrake? It's pretty short and would be a pain to use I'd think. BPR just released a pretty nice mount for evos.
Also, any details on the shifter setup?
It is a legality issue. My brake setup comes without the rear drums so I have to run a hydraulic handbrake. I really want to keep it low profile so the large vertical handbrake just doesnt cut it.. The idea is to hide the mechanism below the stock plastic surround and have the brake balance valve inside the central hand rest. We shall see how it works as the 4 port hydraulic cylinder is a bit long. I want to keep the twin diagonal brake routing too.
I am converting my car from 6 spd to 5 spd and I dont like the stock 5spd shifter feel so I have some ideas how to solve that but it is in my head still.. will show it when done.
I am converting my car from 6 spd to 5 spd and I dont like the stock 5spd shifter feel so I have some ideas how to solve that but it is in my head still.. will show it when done.
do tell! For now, I plan to move the 5spd shifter forward a bit.
do tell! For now, I plan to move the 5spd shifter forward a bit.
the idea is to minimise loose travel from the gear lever mechanism, and make it as precise as possible. I am thinking long gear lever with small working angle (not saying super short travel, just small throw angle), probably 2-3 inches higher than stock 6 spd lever, sphericals on the cables, etc..
There's 3-4 companies that make aftermarket 5 speed shifters, why not just use one of those? They all do what you're looking for, taller, shorter, more precise throws.
Nov 14, 2018, 08:43 AM
The idea is to hide the mechanism below the stock plastic surround and have the brake balance valve inside the central hand rest. We shall see how it works as the 4 port hydraulic cylinder is a bit long. I want to keep the twin diagonal brake routing too.