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2019 STU Discussion

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Old Mar 25, 2019, 02:19 PM
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Haha Yep, I hate my air-conditioned/heated enclosed, holds too many tools/tires/spares, and then there's the whole driving X hours home in an automatic with aircon seats, and parking it when I get home at 0dark thirty and just going to bed, such a pain
Old Mar 25, 2019, 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Balrok
Haha Yep, I hate my air-conditioned/heated enclosed, holds too many tools/tires/spares, and then there's the whole driving X hours home in an automatic with aircon seats, and parking it when I get home at 0dark thirty and just going to bed, such a pain
I really hate having to drive my 2nd house to the track and worry about if I have enough beer in the fridge and propane to keep the fridge cold. And taking a shower in there is such a pain... The struggle is real!

Tho might have to go enclosed trailer soon and slough it back to a truck.. Sad.
Old Mar 26, 2019, 08:52 AM
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Wasn't there a pic we posted forever ago showing the "progress" of the racing rig that ended up in a toterhome stackable lol.
Old Mar 27, 2019, 10:04 AM
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My season opener this passed weekend. Need to shake some rust in the driving department. This was at a local club, but same venue I typically run at. A few SCCA prepped cars were there and I was slightly off pace compared to an STR ND and S2K with good drivers. This particular lot has a few waves/bumps in the asphalt and was really upsetting the car with front wheel lift. The Evo X turns into a complete turd with a front in the air as the awd system freaks out. Feels exactly like a slipping clutch until all the wheel speeds get close.

Car is set up exactly how last season finished minus a new ECU tune. Same old tires too. First SCCA event is this coming Sunday with rain in the forecast.

Old May 10, 2019, 11:19 AM
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As I was under the car yesterday changing the oil, I realized that the high flow cat (Mil.spec) on my car is pretty old. It was Cy Lee's old downpipe (DC sports IIRC) so it's been around a while.

(For weight savings, he had the cat welded directly into the DP, no flanges. He was quite serious about weight)

Has anyone had their HFC die / clog / whatever on them yet and needed to replace it?
Old May 11, 2019, 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Butt Dyno
Has anyone had their HFC die / clog / whatever on them yet and needed to replace it?
I can clearly see straight through my 100-cell mil.spec HFC. I can't imagine how it would possible get clogged.

I switched to a 200-cell Berk HFC last year. I was one of the unlikely ones who got a mil-spec HFC with the flanges welded at the wrong angles, so it was a pain to swap twice a year. Plus the flanges were becoming warped. HFC itself was still working great.

The Berk 200-cell is a quality unit. Great flanges, tight tolerances, good materials, great welds. Surprisingly, I did have to make some minor adjustments to my tune when switching from the 100-cell mil.spec to the 200-cell Berk. Both HFCs flow significantly more than stock, but the mil.spec definitely wins on pure flow.
Old May 29, 2019, 11:24 PM
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Congrats to Mark Hill for being the first STU car in Bump at the Lincoln Pro this past weekend! He was in a Focus RS last year, wonder if he came to his senses and switched back
Old May 30, 2019, 05:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Jim3142
Congrats to Mark Hill for being the first STU car in Bump at the Lincoln Pro this past weekend! He was in a Focus RS last year, wonder if he came to his senses and switched back
I believe I overheard he's been having issues with is Focus RS (engine related I believe) so he ran the evo.
Old Jun 23, 2019, 07:40 AM
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OK, trying to plan for 2020

2017 = no autox (our son was born in April so I took the year off)
2018 = 1.9 autox runs in the Evo (blew the engine, mad scientist had to rip apart the block..)
2019 = going to run my FoST in GS with 4 year old RE71Rs at locals

I was trying to figure out whether to make the plunge to 265s or not and what is involved.

I went back and read the 2016/2017/2018 threads. It looks like the 265s that have fit have been
* I have RPF1 in 18x10 +38. 18mm spacer up front, 5mm spacer in the rear. (Construct)
* 18x10 +38 with 19mm~ front spacers and 4mm rear. Added extended rear studs. (4wd4me)

(might have those backwards)

Any other 18x10s that have been proven to work? One of the local STU Evo'ers has a set of Wedsports (TC105N?), another has a set of NT03s. I'm not sure if either of those is 18x10 or if they are 18x9.5. I really want grey NT03s, because of this picture (not mine)



... and the NT03s come in all sorts of cool colors but they are apparently 18x9.5 not 18x10:
* https://www.evasivemotorsports.com//...&Store_Code=EM

Worst case I will paint some RPF1s (again, and while defeating some of their weight advantage), just wondering what's out there. Still need to roll my fenders, too.
Old Jun 24, 2019, 09:56 PM
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The new Wedsport TC105X comes in 18x10 +35: https://www.evasivemotorsports.com/s...set-35-face-r/

Brent Vitolins from the PNW area has a set of 18x9.5 Volk TE37s on his STU Evo, which could be another option.
Old Jun 25, 2019, 09:02 AM
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Good call, it looks like the 18x10s have been attempted:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/mo...05x-18x10.html

More $ than the RPF1 but available in something other than silver 18.1 lbs, looks a smidge lighter than the RPF1 too.
Old Jun 26, 2019, 09:11 AM
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The RPF-1 is not the best-looking wheel in my book, but it usually moves to the top of my list when I consider the price and weight.

Your spacer info above is correct. From my research, 3-5mm of spacer in the rear and 18-19mm of spacer up front was the range most people were running with 18x10 +38 wheels.

Do you have the STU-legal front LCA offset bushing? Even with the additional caster at the LCA, my 265 on 18x10 setup rubs the back of the wheel wells ever so slightly at certain steering angles. I could probably fix it with a heat gun, but it only really matters when reversing at certain steering angles so I haven't bothered with it. Without the offset LCA, it would be a lot worse though.
Old Jun 26, 2019, 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Construct
The RPF-1 is not the best-looking wheel in my book, but it usually moves to the top of my list when I consider the price and weight.

Your spacer info above is correct. From my research, 3-5mm of spacer in the rear and 18-19mm of spacer up front was the range most people were running with 18x10 +38 wheels.
One thing that might mitigate the cost of the TC's (somewhat) is that since they are +35 instead of +38, you might either not need a spacer or would only need a tiny one. So you might not need longer studs.

Originally Posted by Construct
Do you have the STU-legal front LCA offset bushing? Even with the additional caster at the LCA, my 265 on 18x10 setup rubs the back of the wheel wells ever so slightly at certain steering angles. I could probably fix it with a heat gun, but it only really matters when reversing at certain steering angles so I haven't bothered with it. Without the offset LCA, it would be a lot worse though.
This, right? If so, yes. Fingers crossed that the shop installed them in the right orientation..
https://store.worksmotorsports.com/S....duro3741k.htm
Old Jun 28, 2019, 07:22 AM
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If anyone is interested in buying an almost new set of 18x10 +35 TC105X's, I'm open to reasonable offers! They literally have 6 autox events on them and one 3.5 hour road trip to Lincoln. Other than that, my car sits in the garage.

I don't plan on autoxing my evo at nationals this year (co-driving another car) and really, I don't have the need for these (already have 2 other sets of wheels). They have a set of RE71's on them as well, but I could remove if not wanted (285/30/18). PM me if interested.
Old Jun 28, 2019, 08:40 PM
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Hmmm.


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