Advice on HPDE engine mods
 

I use my 03 Evo 8 primarily for HPDEs. I'm not preparing the car to any SCCA/NASA class.

I have the suspension and brakes developed to the point where I am satisfied with the handling and braking. Now I want more power!

Right now, I have minimal engine mods:

3" RMR downpipe/testpipe/catback
JDM MR compressor bypass valve
Walbro 255

What I am thinking of installing are:

Hallman Pro MBC (in the process of installing now)
GSC S1 cams (already on order)
FP EvoGreen
Nisei competition intercooler and pipes
Nisei mini-battery kit (to make up for the higher weight of the IC)
O2 housing (not sure what kind yet)
wide-band AFR (probably Zeitronix ZT-2)
dyno tune

My objective is reasonable, reliable power. What do you think of this list?

I don't know enough about water/alcohol injection to have a strong opinion on it. I'm concerned about safeguards if the system failed. Do people use this for HPDEs?

Thanks for any help.

wow that list ought to really do you.

1, do your boost control first, do a few laps with your current psi, then some laps with 4 more pounds. you may find it feels faster but actual time may not improve.

but beyond that, those power options should be top notch.

hey, tell us what you have for suspension setup.

Suspension are the Ohlins/vishu coilovers with 550/650 F/R springs, all bushings in the back replaced with polyurethane, some PU bushings in the front, Whiteline anti-bumpsteer kit in the back, cornerweighted. 17x9 wheels with the usual 255/40 RA-1s.

Brakes are BAER eradispeed rotors, Goodrich SS lines, Mits brake air guides, dust/gravel shields removed, Ferodo DS2500 pads, varying brake fluids - using ATE 200/blue at the moment.

Reliability is key for me. So that means i want a car that i can track as often as i please that can compete, and will last. Over the years i have met a hand full of guys who went the big power route, who ended up regretting it. I know 2 of them specifically who have downsized. From what i have understood over the past 2 or so years, as far as DJ numbers are concerned, generally speaking you want to keep your whp/wtq numbers less than 400. You really dont need a specific number as a reference point, you can simply use some common sense, ie if you add too much power youre asking for problems. Im not saying that the setup youre proposing is considered a big power route, but its something i would investigate if i were in your shoes. Even better, i would try to find people who are running similar setups that actually track their car. Im not talking about the guys who track once in a blue moon, or the guys who track 3-5 times a year in ideal conditions. Im talking about guys that track 15+ events a year in all sorts of conditions...especially guys that compete.

Bueller - Thanks for your comments. I agree with all you are writing. That is exactly why I have had minimal engine mods for 4 years. I came to the point this year of either getting more power out of the Evo or getting a C5 Z06. I decided to try modding the Evo and see how that went.

My objective is to modify the engine to run as efficiently as possible. Make the intake and exhaust as freeflowing as I reasonably can and keep the charge temperature low using the more effecient intercooler and larger turbo. I plan to keep the boost low (19-20 psi). I purposely didn't put any horsepower goals in the original post.

There seems to be so much BS about intakes around. My approach has been to use the stock box and filters, but change the filters often - usually twice a year. Any comments?

Anybody running 10-15 events a year have comments?

I think you are on the right path. I have the same mods more or less except for the turbo and IC. If I stop doing TT, I will stuff big tires under the car, and then probably want a few more ponies to play with. But when I go to an event, and most of the Evo's that are modded more than I have a hard time making it through the weekend without pulling out the wrenches (or worse), I'm pretty happy with where the car is at. I have/had 18 days scheduled this year, btw. Through 8 of them, and a cracked rotor has been the only problem.

You are planning on trailering the car? If not, I would highly recommend it.

looks pretty good.... maybe consider a larger radiator too...

you'll love the s1's !!

n

YW. I know this is pretty general advice, but you should investigate as much as you can. Sounds like youve been doing this for a few years, so im sure you know people. I would suggest you tap your resources and ask around. Im pretty new to motorsports, so there isnt anyone specifically that i could refer you to. If youre really interested, i could ask my one friend who went the big power route a few years back, who now has downgraded to a Evo9 turbo with basic bolt-ons. So if youre interested to talk to him, shoot me a PM.

As far as power, you really dont need to squeeze out every last bit of power...imo it will make no difference, especially if youre not competing. And even if you were competing, i think its always better to leave a little room. Now, that doesnt mean that youre not going to have issues somewhere down the line with a milder power increase, more power inevitably results more wear/tear. Its just that the probability of you having more wear/tear issues with big power is more likely vs a milder power increase.

I would agree with the general suggestions as well. I've been researching this for some time now, ever since before i bought the Evo in Janruary. Basically the goal for me was "a relilable race car that could be a DD." And as many threads have argued....its cool to have more power, but you have to mod AROUND the power to keep things in check. Like you said, if you turn up the boost to get more power, be sure to have the intercooler and such to keep the temps the same or lower then when you started out. So far I've tried the following:

3" exhaust w/ Test pipe with NO rear O2 sensor
Injen pipe kit
TurboXS intercooler
Wal 255 Fuel Pump
Forge Recirc. BOV (not sure if i want to keep this one on yet)
MBC running at 24psi street, 20 psi track (still toying with this as well)
and a medium tune.

One thing i did find, when i had it on 24 psi, even with the new intercooler, and the florida summer heat/humidity - was that my coolent temps started spiking at 200 deg here and there several times a minute. Which i expected as i was driving really hard trying to see if i could get it to knock at the same time. So on top of these mods I will be adding the following:

- Water Wetter the day i get to the track
- 1 step colder NGK plugs (expensive as hell but worth it i think)
- a few gallons of 110 octane fuel on top of 93 (to make it somewhere around 99 - 101)
- MAYBE the Koyo stage 1 kit from GSC, which is the radiator and better hoses
- and for sure some Defi Oil temp, pressure, water temp, EGT, AFR, and Boost guages (or maybe a combo with a Zetronix) to keep and eye on everything.

Paranoid i know but after reading for awhile this is what i've come up with.

Too much boost and she goes "KABOOM" :crap:

what's your experience? I can't believe you're not destroying DS2500s at the track...

I'm running 300whp on my VIII as a result of intake, charge pipes, tbe, ebc, and a tune. (no fuel pump or cams etc)

If I was you I'd not bother with upgrading the turbo... too much $$ for very little gains on pump gas.

I'd save the money from not buying a turbo for your next transfer case, clutch, transmission or whatever needs it. If you're rolling in money then do something like a GT30R or some other turbo that has enough gains to be worth it.

I'd also possibly consider a better FMIC, but nothing insane -- I don't have the data to prove it but I suspect my stock one can't keep up for a full session.

+1 Cooling will become a big issue. A Koyo radiator is a very good idea as well as a larger oil cooler. When you make more power you make more heat :)

The FP Evo Green is a significant improvement to the stock 03 turbo. It spools quite quickly and makes great power. It is, to date, one of the best mods I have done to my 03 and was well worth the money.

I would, however, have to pass if I already had a IX :)

BTW -- my 2500s seem to last quite well at the track too.

I heard somewhere that there is a function on the Evo's where the oil cooler only "works" or passes oil through it after it hits a certain temp, as if there was some sort of check valve in place? Anyone know bout this?

Also what aftermarket coolers have you found? Are they universal or specific?

Thanks for the suggestions.

I hate to admit it, but my first race track event (time trial or "time attack") was in 1980. That was in a modified 1971 BMW 2002. :) I've done quite a few events since then. I'm an instructor for a few clubs in the BMW and Audi groups. In the instructor run group, I typically only get passed by stripped-out trailered cars.

The DS2500s work fine for me with reasonable brake cooling and good braking technique. With engine mods giving a higher speed at the braking points, I may have to try some other pads and/or get the AMS brake duct kit. For me, the DS2500s typically last for 6 track days or so.

Even though I'm on about the 10th set of brake pads for this car and 5th set of tires, I'm still on the original stock clutch, transmission, and T-case. The Evo drivetrain seems very stout for road race track use. I think you get the failures from drag racing. Starts at autocrosses are also hard on the drivetrain. I think most of the wear on my clutch is from autocrossing, not road tracks.