im running ksport coilovers also

 

Type of suspension won't change your factory alignment specs. The proper way ( and reason to get adjustable perches that are included in many coilover configurations ) is by taking temperature readings across the face of the tires after a track session. Areas in less contact with the road are going to have lower temperatures, and obviously higher temps = more contact.

 

what are you going to do with the car? you gonna track it? if not factory specs will work well.

 

When i installed my JIC's i went with -2.25 in the front and -1.25 in the rear. When i went to the track i actually added about an extra degree, zero toe.

 

Hey man! You never posted that video link from the March 7th track day. This is Jason, the other Silver Evo IX that was there.

 

I run -2.3 front, -1.8 rear. Toe angle is a little positive in the front because of the wide wheels, .16*+ total and +.30* total in the rear. I also run a stock frt swaybar and a 27mm rear on full stiff with the endlinks cranked short. It lets the 275-40-17 RA1 rotate pretty well and keeps the wear fairly even. This is also the specs I use on the street.

 

For somewhat agressive street driving I would reccomend -2.0f and around -1.0r. For the track I would probably go -2.5f and -1.5r. I would zero the toe out f&r for the street and maybe add an 1/8th toe out in the rear for better rotation. This usually takes a bit away from the strait line stability though too. Its hard to tell really though depending on your setup. RSB and other things can change the suspension geometry enough that camber and toe changes can make more or less dramatic changes. Springrates can also dictate how much body roll you have and how much negative camber would be optimal. Another aspect is tires. What type of tires do you run. All these come into account if you want an "optimal" alignment or just one that gets you by.

 

This isn't necessarily true. If you get lowering springs or adjustable height coilovers you are adjusting the height of the vehicle which means when its on the ground as a bare minimum (assuming either you or the shop doesn't also change something else) the camber settings are going to change from what they were with the stock setup.

 

Silly Double post

 

This is actually the starting point suspension settings for the WRC group N cars and then in shakedowns they adjust from there (or so my ProDrive spy claims). But yeah all the other parts come into play in the long run as well as driving style.

 

Yeah, I guess it's not a safe assumption that when people buy coil overs they don't crank them down to minimum ride heights. Unfortuantely, the real reason to have coil overs is to weight jack, not to make a low rider.

 

Toe angle is relative to scrub radius changes based on wheel width and offset. Honestly thats the real determining factor for optimum toe setttings for wear anyway. I mean on stock wheels and tires, yeah 0 is great. Draw the line from the SAI to the new centerline and see how much of scrub change there is and the factory settings become little more than a guideline, not a rule.


Thats more or less what any ASE will tell you, as well as any well trained Schwabbie ....or ex-schwabbie anyway. I will try to scan those sections of my books and put them up. With our suspension though, track changes whether because of spacers or wider wheels (barring spring rate and damping rates) will generally require more positive toe. The reason is the extra width affects where the tires want to move becuase of bushing deflection and rolling resistance...more or less

 

Yeah pretty much. Took no chances with my setup....I got Omni to adjust the settings as soon as I got the coilovers on. Only reasons I haven't readjusted since I raised it this year is that I haven't been tracking and the current tires are on their last run (3 solid years out of them) so if they die i won't lose any sleep .