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Alfa Lapping Day (Evening Event)

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Old May 6, 2010 | 07:44 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by jid2
I don't change out my Raybestos ST43's; I drive to the track on them. They aren't a daily driver pad, but they can stop fine even when cold going back and forth from the track. They pretty much rule.
Exactly the info I was looking for. Thanks jid2.
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Old May 6, 2010 | 08:31 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by RoninVIIIRS
Best to just change them out the night before (what I always do). You can drive them on the street, but depending on the material, it can be stupid loud anytime you make a slow stop. I've changed pads at the track between sessions before and it sucks. Your mind should be focused on the track and what you are going to do when you head out there (nice and relaxed). Instead of rushing to get the pads in, etc. I know it doesn't take long to pop a couple pins out and put them in, but summer time track days get up into the 90's sometimes, and doing all that in the heat sucks.
+1 I've driven to Portland for 3 years now on race pads swapped the night before. They work just fine on the street. They're just INSANELY loud. Besides, if you changed them on the track, you need to be teched typically before 8. The fastest I've swapped my pads is 56 mins from Jack up to Jack down, so I don't want to arrive at the track an hour early just to swap pads. After swapping you need to bed them anyways.
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Old May 6, 2010 | 09:10 AM
  #33  
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From: Redmond - Lake Tapps ,WA
Brake pads seems to be like turbo chargers, people always looking for something better.

Here's what I know, I'm running Raybestos ST43 - and they stop all day long, last forever, are easy on rotors. Ryan Gates, Bueller, Hamflex, balrock and lots of guys racing EVO's run the same pads. Performance Friction PF01 pads are awesome and well proven as well; across lots of racing forms.

For me I can get ST43's locally from the guys at Girodisc and they arrive in 1 day. So that is nice, and supports a local company. That's enough for me to be done looking for brake pads.
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Old May 6, 2010 | 09:30 AM
  #34  
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How much do they run you? Do you run them F&R? I hate the thought of running two different pads but considering the Evo front brakes take most the abuse not sure if I could leave some DS2500s in the rear or RB800's then just put in ST43's in the front since they seem to work well. I have had my brakes fail at 120+ and it was a definately pucker moment holding a corner about 20mph too fast...
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Old May 6, 2010 | 12:13 PM
  #35  
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I've been running DS2500's on the rear, Pagid RS29's on the front, on the street and on the track for the past two years. Works fine, but I want more brake torque for the track so I have a set of CL6 pads to try in the front, maybe they'll be quiet enough for the street too. For dedicated track pads, you can't go wrong with the ST43's or PF pads, and there are many other good track pads.
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Old May 6, 2010 | 01:13 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by aeroweenie
I've been running DS2500's on the rear, Pagid RS29's on the front, on the street and on the track for the past two years. Works fine, but I want more brake torque for the track so I have a set of CL6 pads to try in the front, maybe they'll be quiet enough for the street too. For dedicated track pads, you can't go wrong with the ST43's or PF pads, and there are many other good track pads.
Dude, Aero, you gotta let me know how those CL6 pads work out. I've been really interested in cintered pads.
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Old May 6, 2010 | 06:42 PM
  #37  
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^ will do, I've probably got a few more months to go on the RS29's. oh, and the new pads are actually "CL RC6", the sintered pads (see thread in motorsports section).

As jid2 put it, I have succumbed to their hotness. Now we just have to see if they work, do they eat the rotors, etc.
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Old May 6, 2010 | 07:52 PM
  #38  
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From: Seattle, WA
After hearing about these CL series pads I decided to shoot a PM to Touge Factory for CL RC5+. They are rated up to 1800 degrees and can be daily driven without any negative effects supposedly. Thinking of trying them out. Seems to be too many good choices out there lately
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Old May 6, 2010 | 09:05 PM
  #39  
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I run the ST43's in the front and DS2500's in the rear. That balance works out very nicely.

And yes the CL RC6's sound like hotness, and a few of the motorsports guys have jumped ship over to them. Sounds like they could be OK.
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Old May 13, 2010 | 09:17 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Spool4Fun
How much seat time do you have racing? How much HP?
For a minimum you need high temp brake fluid and 1/2 pad left on the fronts. Highly recomended would be a better brake pad for the front. DS2500 type pad. I don't think pacific is terribly horrible on brakes, but its the last thing you want to fail on your car...
I dont have alot of seat time (None at Pacific), and to make it worse, all of it is in (gasp!) FWD vehicles.

352 whp/308 wtq

Originally Posted by codgi
For just learning the track once hes not pushing it too hard a stockish setup would be fine. Been there done that in 2006. Then again I tend to drive like a granny so .
Driving like a granny hasnt been the problem to date, braking at the proper point and not cooking it into the corners HAS been a problem though..... I keep hearing "In like a lamb, out like a lion" over and over in my head, yet in application it looks more like "in like a lion, out like choped liver"

Originally Posted by jid2
And yes the CL RC6's sound like hotness, and a few of the motorsports guys have jumped ship over to them. Sounds like they could be OK.

Sorry for the slow response, not having interwebz at home is killer sometimes

The setup ive ran in my EF hatch (all-motor B18c5, 215whp, 9,750 redline) was Motul RBF 600, Cobalt friction XR-3 pads and frozen rotors. But that car was only 1,900lbs so i'm assuming the weight of the IX will alter the needs drastically.

Been following the RC6 thread for a while and it seems like a good option to the ST43. But the RC5 seems to be more in my usage category as I dont hit the track all that often.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/mo...ds-ever-8.html
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Old May 13, 2010 | 09:32 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Ryan.Kauz
Driving like a granny hasnt been the problem to date, braking at the proper point and not cooking it into the corners HAS been a problem though..... I keep hearing "In like a lamb, out like a lion" over and over in my head, yet in application it looks more like "in like a lion, out like choped liver"
If you drive like a granny you'll brake nice and early and be slow for those corners. So if you aren't braking super early, your granny status has been revoked.
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Old May 21, 2010 | 10:46 AM
  #42  
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Any input from the track guys here if the stage 2 kit from Girodisc will be adequate? (with "magic" pads for street, and ST43 pads for track)

And lastly, those with PIR experience, would you run ST43 up front and perhaps DS3000 out back? or keep the same compound F/R?

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ct-lineup.html


Stage 2:
This is our Entry Level Street Kit; it includes:

1pc Girodisc Slotted Directional Vane Front Rotors
1pc Girodisc Slotted Pillar Vane Rear Rotors
Pads Front + Rear
x2 Bottles Motul RBF600 Fluid
Girodisc Front + Rear SS Lines
Girodisc Anti-Noise Pad Shims (depending on pad choice)
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 01:09 PM
  #43  
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From: Redmond - Lake Tapps ,WA
Bump-ola ^^^^ You should run ST43's up front and DS2500's in the rear.

Getting close, I didn't get out in May - but it was raining all month anyway. I was considering doing something earlier in this month - but alas it seems to always be raining still. Let's hope it's clear by the 23rd.

Any locals interested in cooling ducts for their brakes, I have my old parts I'm looking to get rid of. Send me a PM.

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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 02:02 PM
  #44  
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From: Your mamy's bedroom
^ You have been PM'd
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 06:03 PM
  #45  
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^^ There's a track day on the 20th of June (Sunday) down in Portland as well put on by the Alfa, BMW, and Porsche club of Oregon.
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