w8lifter21

iTrader: (10)

1992 Galant VR-4

I will start by saying that the car has had a motor swap done, as well as an attempt to get fuel going as can be seen in THIS link to a thread where the previous owner was trying to track down the problem, but no resolution was found. It looks like the car has a Walbro 255 pump installed.



Car cranks but won't start on it's own. If we pull the upper intercooler hose, spray in starting fluid and turn the key it will run for 2-3 sec and die........at least that's where we started the day at lol. Here is the order of progression through out the day.



1. Checked that the battery has a full charge. 12.5v at rest, 11v during crank.



2. Pulled the MPI relay and bench tested it based on THIS thread and it all checks out. When installed, this is what it looks like and has this white wire running under the hood to a blue box fuse.







3. Checked to see if we can hear the fuel pump buzzing/making noise. During crank we don't hear anything but after you let go of the key, you can hear the pump go buzzzzzzzzzz for about a second and then stop. My thought at this point is that maybe the pump is not getting enough voltage to pump gas. Back to the fuel pump!



3. Took a look at the fuel pump wiring. First thing we noticed was this unusually long jumper in the back on(if memory serves me) the black/white wire. Not sure what it's for or why it's there, but as I type this I realize I didn't check to see if there was an issue with this connection and that there was continuity on this jumper.





Looking at the fuel pump.....corrosion galore, including the wire connections on the pump. Excuse the crude labeling but here is what I found at the pump. I see corrosion, I assume corroded wires, which drives up wire resistance and can keep voltage low.





I start with the black wire that's grounded to the top of the pump. I notice that the wire is super stiff so I strip some insulation off and the wire has turned black, most likely from corrosion, it getting too hot, or a combo of both.







I find that it's this way all the way to the black side of the connector, so I just snip it off, and then splice into it on the white side of the connector.







Black/white wire.......here is where it get's interesting. I back the screw out that the wire is(now was since the ring terminal was so corroded it broke) connected to, and find that it is sitting in what looks like threaded plastic piece. Even though the screw was basically sitting in an insulator, the ring terminal was touching a little bit of the top of the fuel pump so I "guess" this was grounded.





That being said, here is a picture of where the screw came out of which had the black/white wire attached, as well as the new ground I connected both the black and black/white wires





4. Assuming the fuel pump now has solid grounds, we give it another shot to see if it starts. Now the car cranks, makes a new loud clicking type sound around the fuel injector area, and the car will only crank for about 1 second, even if you continue to hold the key in the "start" position. Also, we don't hear the fuel pump buzzing/making noise at all anymore. I tried grounding both black & black/white wires to the same ground on the pump, both to the battery negative, one on the pump one on the battery, none on the pump and two separate chassis grounds and the same result.



I threw in the towel for the day at this point lol.



Any thoughts/suggestions/pointers is appreciated!