Air Intake & Upper Strut Bar
Sep 24, 2012, 02:42 PM
#1
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Air Intake & Upper Strut Bar
I just got my 2011 Outlander a few months ago and was wondering (since I cannot leave well enough alone ) if a cold air intake from a 2011-2012 non turbo Lancer would be able to bolt into our cars. From everything that I have looked at both engines are the same. Everything is just about placed the same as well. Has anyone tried to do this yet?
Next question, has anyone tried to install a Lancer upper strut bar onto the Outlander Sport? I do realize that there is one other option for the way too expensive Colt bar.
thank you
Next question, has anyone tried to install a Lancer upper strut bar onto the Outlander Sport? I do realize that there is one other option for the way too expensive Colt bar.
thank you
Sep 29, 2012, 12:08 AM
#2
I just got my 2011 Outlander a few months ago and was wondering (since I cannot leave well enough alone ) if a cold air intake from a 2011-2012 non turbo Lancer would be able to bolt into our cars. From everything that I have looked at both engines are the same. Everything is just about placed the same as well. Has anyone tried to do this yet?
Next question, has anyone tried to install a Lancer upper strut bar onto the Outlander Sport? I do realize that there is one other option for the way too expensive Colt bar.
thank you
Next question, has anyone tried to install a Lancer upper strut bar onto the Outlander Sport? I do realize that there is one other option for the way too expensive Colt bar.
thank you
I think it would depend on the brand of the CAI. As far as I can tell the RRM short ram intake is identical, but that tube doesn't go very far. If it was a fenderwell intake or something drawing from the front of the engine bay it may need some brackets fabricated. Should be easy enough with some bar stock and hand tools.
As far as the strut tower brace, the chasis is based off the full size Outlander, so you'd probably have better luck getting an Outlander tower brace to work. If you have access to a lancer bar, even a stock one, try checking it out. Otherwise at least try measuring center to center on the mounts and see if it's the same as a Lancer.
Sep 30, 2012, 05:56 PM
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Honestly I run the cosworth high flow panel air filter. It is the same one and works in all 4b11 engines, EVO, lancer and Outlander spor. Good throttle response flows the best, no oil to ruin the MAF and tested for improvements.
Oct 1, 2012, 12:09 AM
#4
Yeah, I should have thrown that in there as well. I put in a K&N panel filter, which is the same one as the EVOX uses, and saw noticable gains in throttle response and especially fuel economy. I regularly see over 30MPGs mixed since the K&N.
Oct 2, 2012, 09:27 AM
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Where do I pick up the Cosworth air filter?
Oct 3, 2012, 11:46 AM
#7
I've been meaning to post about my latest upgrades but the Evo X front strut tower bars actually are only 3mm offset (wider) on each side bolt center to bolt center. Since I had a factory Evo X strut bar hanging around in the garage after swapping in a Cusco, all it took was grinding out 1-2mm to slot the holes a bit more and it fit like a champ!
First thing I noticed is that while the Evo X is really stiff already, the Outlander Sport gets a huge boost to front end handling by reducing the flex of the strut towers. Everything is more composed and with 36-38 psi tire pressure it's reasonably responsive, especially compared to most other crossover sport utility vehicles.
Another great upgrade is the front motor mount... I'll post more details about it but had a couple spare Evo X motor mounts in my garage where I filled them in with Silicone. You feel more vibration at idle and above 4500 but unless you use roofing adhesive where the mount becomes "too" solid it's really not that bad with just pure silicone. You can definitely feel that the engine is now part of the car instead of flopping around in the engine bay so it's well worth the effort.
This means that at least the front engine mount is a direct swap! If you end up purchasing a new motor mount, make sure to stick with those that are the lower 60-70 durometer ratings versus the racebred 90 durometer or you will get a bit too much engine vibration from the upgrade.
It honestly feels like it's an entirely new vehicle in the handling department with these small changes.
I also puchased some H&R lowering springs from Tirerack and will install those in the coming days and report back. With some front camber adjustment bolts I plan on shooting for -1.0* camber front and -.5* camber rear. I haven't measured current toe settings but likely zero front and slight toe in for the rear is what will work the best. Right now it's closer to +1* camber front and +.5* camber rear which isn't really good for cornering performance! Overall these should drop the car around 1.5" and hopefully not negatively effect ride comfort too much if they didn't go crazy with the spring rates. While I want good ground clearance on this car for the winter, the wheel wells have a bit too much wheel gap for my taste. Since it starts with 8.5" ground clearance, 7.0" will still be plenty and with the lower center of gravity it should help take corners even better.
First thing I noticed is that while the Evo X is really stiff already, the Outlander Sport gets a huge boost to front end handling by reducing the flex of the strut towers. Everything is more composed and with 36-38 psi tire pressure it's reasonably responsive, especially compared to most other crossover sport utility vehicles.
Another great upgrade is the front motor mount... I'll post more details about it but had a couple spare Evo X motor mounts in my garage where I filled them in with Silicone. You feel more vibration at idle and above 4500 but unless you use roofing adhesive where the mount becomes "too" solid it's really not that bad with just pure silicone. You can definitely feel that the engine is now part of the car instead of flopping around in the engine bay so it's well worth the effort.
This means that at least the front engine mount is a direct swap! If you end up purchasing a new motor mount, make sure to stick with those that are the lower 60-70 durometer ratings versus the racebred 90 durometer or you will get a bit too much engine vibration from the upgrade.
It honestly feels like it's an entirely new vehicle in the handling department with these small changes.
I also puchased some H&R lowering springs from Tirerack and will install those in the coming days and report back. With some front camber adjustment bolts I plan on shooting for -1.0* camber front and -.5* camber rear. I haven't measured current toe settings but likely zero front and slight toe in for the rear is what will work the best. Right now it's closer to +1* camber front and +.5* camber rear which isn't really good for cornering performance! Overall these should drop the car around 1.5" and hopefully not negatively effect ride comfort too much if they didn't go crazy with the spring rates. While I want good ground clearance on this car for the winter, the wheel wells have a bit too much wheel gap for my taste. Since it starts with 8.5" ground clearance, 7.0" will still be plenty and with the lower center of gravity it should help take corners even better.
Last edited by Hiboost; Oct 4, 2012 at 11:28 AM.
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Oct 4, 2012, 10:21 PM
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I've been meaning to post about my latest upgrades but the Evo X front strut tower bars actually are only 3mm offset (wider) on each side bolt center to bolt center. Since I had a factory Evo X strut bar hanging around in the garage after swapping in a Cusco, all it took was grinding out 1-2mm to slot the holes a bit more and it fit like a champ!
First thing I noticed is that while the Evo X is really stiff already, the Outlander Sport gets a huge boost to front end handling by reducing the flex of the strut towers. Everything is more composed and with 36-38 psi tire pressure it's reasonably responsive, especially compared to most other crossover sport utility vehicles.
Another great upgrade is the front motor mount... I'll post more details about it but had a couple spare Evo X motor mounts in my garage where I filled them in with Silicone. You feel more vibration at idle and above 4500 but unless you use roofing adhesive where the mount becomes "too" solid it's really not that bad with just pure silicone. You can definitely feel that the engine is now part of the car instead of flopping around in the engine bay so it's well worth the effort.
This means that at least the front engine mount is a direct swap! If you end up purchasing a new motor mount, make sure to stick with those that are the lower 60-70 durometer ratings versus the racebred 90 durometer or you will get a bit too much engine vibration from the upgrade.
It honestly feels like it's an entirely new vehicle in the handling department with these small changes.
I also puchased some H&R lowering springs from Tirerack and will install those in the coming days and report back. With some front camber adjustment bolts I plan on shooting for -1.0* camber front and -.5* camber rear. I haven't measured current toe settings but likely zero front and slight toe in for the rear is what will work the best. Right now it's closer to +1* camber front and +.5* camber rear which isn't really good for cornering performance! Overall these should drop the car around 1.5" and hopefully not negatively effect ride comfort too much if they didn't go crazy with the spring rates. While I want good ground clearance on this car for the winter, the wheel wells have a bit too much wheel gap for my taste. Since it starts with 8.5" ground clearance, 7.0" will still be plenty and with the lower center of gravity it should help take corners even better.
First thing I noticed is that while the Evo X is really stiff already, the Outlander Sport gets a huge boost to front end handling by reducing the flex of the strut towers. Everything is more composed and with 36-38 psi tire pressure it's reasonably responsive, especially compared to most other crossover sport utility vehicles.
Another great upgrade is the front motor mount... I'll post more details about it but had a couple spare Evo X motor mounts in my garage where I filled them in with Silicone. You feel more vibration at idle and above 4500 but unless you use roofing adhesive where the mount becomes "too" solid it's really not that bad with just pure silicone. You can definitely feel that the engine is now part of the car instead of flopping around in the engine bay so it's well worth the effort.
This means that at least the front engine mount is a direct swap! If you end up purchasing a new motor mount, make sure to stick with those that are the lower 60-70 durometer ratings versus the racebred 90 durometer or you will get a bit too much engine vibration from the upgrade.
It honestly feels like it's an entirely new vehicle in the handling department with these small changes.
I also puchased some H&R lowering springs from Tirerack and will install those in the coming days and report back. With some front camber adjustment bolts I plan on shooting for -1.0* camber front and -.5* camber rear. I haven't measured current toe settings but likely zero front and slight toe in for the rear is what will work the best. Right now it's closer to +1* camber front and +.5* camber rear which isn't really good for cornering performance! Overall these should drop the car around 1.5" and hopefully not negatively effect ride comfort too much if they didn't go crazy with the spring rates. While I want good ground clearance on this car for the winter, the wheel wells have a bit too much wheel gap for my taste. Since it starts with 8.5" ground clearance, 7.0" will still be plenty and with the lower center of gravity it should help take corners even better.
Two things....you wouldn't happen to have a factory part number for the EVO X bar? And would it be possible to post pictures of your modified bar as well?
Oct 5, 2012, 07:47 AM
#11
If I were a betting man the stock mitsu bar would likely cost more than most aftermarket strut tower bars like the Cusco which is what I upgraded to on my Evo X because it's half the weight. I'll see what I can dig up and will make a post about it separately, basically any Evo X strut tower bar should be able to have the mounting holes widened a few mm inward to accommodate the slightly narrower Outlander Sport. 
Dec 27, 2012, 09:30 AM
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Forgot to post this a while ago... anyway for a light aftermarket "perfect fitting" front upper strut bar: Ultra Racing has two kinds for the EVO X that work great. Especially if you have a white Outlander, it looks stock! They have both a two and three point bar, the three point doesn't attach to the firewall but it still works great and I thought it may be a tad stiffer. Its really light, made out of some alloy and they're on ebay for just over $100. Made a noticeable difference on cornering handling first time out with it. Would recommend for anyone looking to upgrade.
Dec 27, 2012, 09:01 PM
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/180631914562
Notice it states 2 point in the header but then down in the body its a 3 point. If you search his store though he does have just 2 point ones just make sure its in the body of for sale item. :-)
Last edited by Azmodeus; Dec 27, 2012 at 09:04 PM.