KIDO Racing Coilovers...lowering our OS/RVR/ASX confirmed.
Jun 26, 2015, 12:05 PM
#50
rear camber?
I installed the same coil overs (on my 2014) and was able to adjust front camber because of the top plate, but in the rear my mechanic said there was very little adjustment he could do (tires in the rear are getting visible camber wear)
Is there any solution? camber bolts or camber kit?
If so which ones would you recommend or that would fit
Thank you in advance!
Is there any solution? camber bolts or camber kit?
If so which ones would you recommend or that would fit
Thank you in advance!
Jun 26, 2015, 04:09 PM
#51
Evolving Member
For the rear there are aftermarket upper control arms available. All the 08+ lancers(except evo) share the same arm. So there is SPC, Megan racing, hardrace(Malaysian company). Also share the same upper control with the Dodge Caliber, so there is Realtuned.
Jun 24, 2017, 11:00 AM
#54
So after 6 years of owning a 2011 Outlander Sport I can tell the stock shocks are starting to feel a bit softer. I'll have to look at these Kido Coilovers more closely unless there are other options out there similarly priced I should be considering.
What seems to have really transformed the handling so far was getting some specialty products camber bolts. I ended up using my Tenhulzen Camber/Caster/Toe alignment kit to change my front camber from +.7 to -.8 and the car has noticeably better cornering than before with less body roll. Now granted it's nowhere near my time attack Evo X but it really helped.
I also have a little bit of Toe Out in the front end now, about an 1/8" total toe out and that is likely also a factor. So far the tire wear has been no worse than before but for those that are worried you would probably want to stay with zero toe or 1/16" toe out.
The Megan Race Spec front strut bar is super light and also seemed to help cornering. The one that is specced out for the Lancer is a direct fit and it's much lighter than the $30 bars thanks to being made of aluminum.
I tested a Torque Solutions Front Engine Mount from an Evo X and it was livable at speed but when the engine dropped below 800 rpm at idle the steering wheel would vibrate like crazy. Likely the aluminum crank pulley I'm running is contributing factor so I was considering bumping my idle rpm to 850 as a temp fix but decided the stiffened up OEM Evo X motor mount I filled in with roofing sealant was a good in between compromise that still kept the engine from wobbling around too much.
The last thing I did was install energy suspension universal rear sway bar bushings which stiffened up the rear end a bit, reduced roll, and helped front end turn in. I didn't think they would make that much of a difference, but because the stock bar is relatively small diameter on our cars it makes the OEM bushings really thick creating too much flexibility.
Between all these mods the car no longer understeers at the limit and is really well balanced. The same expressway 270* sweeping turn that I could barely take at 45 mph can now be comfortably taken at 55 mph and even a bit more if I wanted to push the tires with a predictable drift.
The tires are another factor that play into things as well, while the stockers were good all around all season tires, the Goodyear Eagle Sport all-season tires (560 treadwear) have improved ride quality and offered better handling. Winter performance was acceptable the last 2 years but because there are no small cuts or sips in the tread blocks it really depended on having a full tread depth to be decent in the snow. I plan on getting dedicated snow tires for this winter and will likely mount the Goodyear tires on a set of stock Evo X GSR wheels next Spring and just use those for the warmer 8 months of the year.
Fun times, now back to my Time Attack prep work for Sunday's race!
What seems to have really transformed the handling so far was getting some specialty products camber bolts. I ended up using my Tenhulzen Camber/Caster/Toe alignment kit to change my front camber from +.7 to -.8 and the car has noticeably better cornering than before with less body roll. Now granted it's nowhere near my time attack Evo X but it really helped.
I also have a little bit of Toe Out in the front end now, about an 1/8" total toe out and that is likely also a factor. So far the tire wear has been no worse than before but for those that are worried you would probably want to stay with zero toe or 1/16" toe out.
The Megan Race Spec front strut bar is super light and also seemed to help cornering. The one that is specced out for the Lancer is a direct fit and it's much lighter than the $30 bars thanks to being made of aluminum.
I tested a Torque Solutions Front Engine Mount from an Evo X and it was livable at speed but when the engine dropped below 800 rpm at idle the steering wheel would vibrate like crazy. Likely the aluminum crank pulley I'm running is contributing factor so I was considering bumping my idle rpm to 850 as a temp fix but decided the stiffened up OEM Evo X motor mount I filled in with roofing sealant was a good in between compromise that still kept the engine from wobbling around too much.
The last thing I did was install energy suspension universal rear sway bar bushings which stiffened up the rear end a bit, reduced roll, and helped front end turn in. I didn't think they would make that much of a difference, but because the stock bar is relatively small diameter on our cars it makes the OEM bushings really thick creating too much flexibility.
Between all these mods the car no longer understeers at the limit and is really well balanced. The same expressway 270* sweeping turn that I could barely take at 45 mph can now be comfortably taken at 55 mph and even a bit more if I wanted to push the tires with a predictable drift.
The tires are another factor that play into things as well, while the stockers were good all around all season tires, the Goodyear Eagle Sport all-season tires (560 treadwear) have improved ride quality and offered better handling. Winter performance was acceptable the last 2 years but because there are no small cuts or sips in the tread blocks it really depended on having a full tread depth to be decent in the snow. I plan on getting dedicated snow tires for this winter and will likely mount the Goodyear tires on a set of stock Evo X GSR wheels next Spring and just use those for the warmer 8 months of the year.
Fun times, now back to my Time Attack prep work for Sunday's race!
Oct 21, 2018, 09:38 AM
#55
Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: germany
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Where i can get this Kit?
Did anybody know where i can get this Kit now? The eBay link did Not work anymore..
Well, after researching for a year, reading a good amount of threads here, I finally buckled down and asked for the Kido Racing coilovers for Valentine's Day.
I highly considered going air ride, talking with friends who have airbags on their respective rides, and even considered locating the compressor and hardware forward the engine bay, to keep the trunk space free. I've talked with reps from AirLift and AccuAir and was still not convinced after weighing out my options.
I refused to cut or heat the springs as I come from the lowrider world in the early 90's, and have seen a good amount of bad mishaps happen to cars when lowered in that fashion. Considering my wife drives Dory more than I do, it wasn't even a consideration. Not to mention, I'm not cutting springs on a $20,000
when there are other options.
When it came down to it, the research I did with Kido Racing was worth taking a shot.
So today, I found time to install the setup, and must say, it's very easy(if you have experience with doing suspension work before.) Installing the front did not have any surprises, and the Kido Racing coilover setup is a perfect application with no kind of fabrication. The rear was even easier in that you only have to take the false floor surrounding the spare tire to obtain the bolts holding the struts in from the interior. You do not have to take the subwoofer or any of the side panels off in the trunk.
I do not plan on autocrossing, nor even racing Dory, in that I already have a DSM for that purpose. With that said, I can't honestly give an opinion in the area of "competitive racing." In other words, I can't tell you if the coilover setup gives understeer, or oversteer. I can tell you, that at the softest setting, the street ride is nice and firm, so I can only imagine if I balanced out the front and rear with some added stiffness to the setting. I can also comment that on circular/cloverleaf onramps/offramps, there is much less body sway or side to side roll.
Some may justify that the front strut tower brace gives the same improvement, but that's just hard for me to believe. Then again, I opted to go with the coilover setup before a strut tower brace to give my opinion on body roll. It would be nice in the future if an aftermarket sway bar can be offered, but again, who needs it unless you'll actually be autocrossing. It was just a note I put in the back of my head when I noticed how small the sway bar was.
The quality looks and feels very nice, and definitely looks as expensive as some of the higher end coilovers in the market. Only time and mileage will tell on how truly good of a quality this setup is and worth the money. So feel free to ask any questions, as the pictures should answer it all...
Opened up the trunk this sunshiny morning...
Attachment 317335
I started with what I thought was going to be the harder side to do first. The rear setup...
Attachment 317336
After realizing that I didn't have to take the entire trunk apart to get to the bolts, I was good to go...
Attachment 317337
Attachment 317338
Then of course came the front side, which I wish I had a scale to weigh the difference as the OEM strut was obviously heavier than the aftermarket setup. I extended the setup to try and match the OEM setup if you wanted the ride height to stay in bubba mode...
Attachment 317339
It's somewhat hard to see, but the bottom adjustable collar on the front is black in color, where the rear is a matching blue to the locking collar. In the picture on the rear, you can see, there is still more room to go lower.
Attachment 317340
Attachment 317341
Here's a picture almost a year ago in April when we first got her...
Attachment 317342
And today after I washed Dory...
Attachment 317343
Attachment 317344
Attachment 317345
Measurement-wise, I went with a safe 5" from the bottom of the fender to the top of the center of the rim on both front and rear.
I highly considered going air ride, talking with friends who have airbags on their respective rides, and even considered locating the compressor and hardware forward the engine bay, to keep the trunk space free. I've talked with reps from AirLift and AccuAir and was still not convinced after weighing out my options.
I refused to cut or heat the springs as I come from the lowrider world in the early 90's, and have seen a good amount of bad mishaps happen to cars when lowered in that fashion. Considering my wife drives Dory more than I do, it wasn't even a consideration. Not to mention, I'm not cutting springs on a $20,000
when there are other options.When it came down to it, the research I did with Kido Racing was worth taking a shot.
So today, I found time to install the setup, and must say, it's very easy(if you have experience with doing suspension work before.) Installing the front did not have any surprises, and the Kido Racing coilover setup is a perfect application with no kind of fabrication. The rear was even easier in that you only have to take the false floor surrounding the spare tire to obtain the bolts holding the struts in from the interior. You do not have to take the subwoofer or any of the side panels off in the trunk.
I do not plan on autocrossing, nor even racing Dory, in that I already have a DSM for that purpose. With that said, I can't honestly give an opinion in the area of "competitive racing." In other words, I can't tell you if the coilover setup gives understeer, or oversteer. I can tell you, that at the softest setting, the street ride is nice and firm, so I can only imagine if I balanced out the front and rear with some added stiffness to the setting. I can also comment that on circular/cloverleaf onramps/offramps, there is much less body sway or side to side roll.
Some may justify that the front strut tower brace gives the same improvement, but that's just hard for me to believe. Then again, I opted to go with the coilover setup before a strut tower brace to give my opinion on body roll. It would be nice in the future if an aftermarket sway bar can be offered, but again, who needs it unless you'll actually be autocrossing. It was just a note I put in the back of my head when I noticed how small the sway bar was.
The quality looks and feels very nice, and definitely looks as expensive as some of the higher end coilovers in the market. Only time and mileage will tell on how truly good of a quality this setup is and worth the money. So feel free to ask any questions, as the pictures should answer it all...
Opened up the trunk this sunshiny morning...
Attachment 317335
I started with what I thought was going to be the harder side to do first. The rear setup...
Attachment 317336
After realizing that I didn't have to take the entire trunk apart to get to the bolts, I was good to go...
Attachment 317337
Attachment 317338
Then of course came the front side, which I wish I had a scale to weigh the difference as the OEM strut was obviously heavier than the aftermarket setup. I extended the setup to try and match the OEM setup if you wanted the ride height to stay in bubba mode...
Attachment 317339
It's somewhat hard to see, but the bottom adjustable collar on the front is black in color, where the rear is a matching blue to the locking collar. In the picture on the rear, you can see, there is still more room to go lower.
Attachment 317340
Attachment 317341
Here's a picture almost a year ago in April when we first got her...
Attachment 317342
And today after I washed Dory...
Attachment 317343
Attachment 317344
Attachment 317345
Measurement-wise, I went with a safe 5" from the bottom of the fender to the top of the center of the rim on both front and rear.
Dec 11, 2018, 01:47 AM
#56
Newbie
Questions
Curious how far I can go and how much I can do with my 2018 Outlander Sport with it being 4x4 and all. Any info would be great. I’m new to the Mitsu world for about a year now. But plan on learning more thanks in advance for the info.
Apr 27, 2020, 11:04 AM
#57
Newbie
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: bermuda
Posts: 1
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Kids Coilovers
hello
your car looks very nice. I have the same one. I just can't find coilers for it. would you mind telling me how you got the ones you put on your car? ie what site what model car etc..I would like to get the exact same ones you have. I want to lower my car 2-3 inches maybe more
thank you
Phil
your car looks very nice. I have the same one. I just can't find coilers for it. would you mind telling me how you got the ones you put on your car? ie what site what model car etc..I would like to get the exact same ones you have. I want to lower my car 2-3 inches maybe more
thank you
Phil
Well, after researching for a year, reading a good amount of threads here, I finally buckled down and asked for the Kido Racing coilovers for Valentine's Day.
I highly considered going air ride, talking with friends who have airbags on their respective rides, and even considered locating the compressor and hardware forward the engine bay, to keep the trunk space free. I've talked with reps from AirLift and AccuAir and was still not convinced after weighing out my options.
I refused to cut or heat the springs as I come from the lowrider world in the early 90's, and have seen a good amount of bad mishaps happen to cars when lowered in that fashion. Considering my wife drives Dory more than I do, it wasn't even a consideration. Not to mention, I'm not cutting springs on a $20,000 when there are other options.
When it came down to it, the research I did with Kido Racing was worth taking a shot.
So today, I found time to install the setup, and must say, it's very easy(if you have experience with doing suspension work before.) Installing the front did not have any surprises, and the Kido Racing coilover setup is a perfect application with no kind of fabrication. The rear was even easier in that you only have to take the false floor surrounding the spare tire to obtain the bolts holding the struts in from the interior. You do not have to take the subwoofer or any of the side panels off in the trunk.
I do not plan on autocrossing, nor even racing Dory, in that I already have a DSM for that purpose. With that said, I can't honestly give an opinion in the area of "competitive racing." In other words, I can't tell you if the coilover setup gives understeer, or oversteer. I can tell you, that at the softest setting, the street ride is nice and firm, so I can only imagine if I balanced out the front and rear with some added stiffness to the setting. I can also comment that on circular/cloverleaf onramps/offramps, there is much less body sway or side to side roll.
Some may justify that the front strut tower brace gives the same improvement, but that's just hard for me to believe. Then again, I opted to go with the coilover setup before a strut tower brace to give my opinion on body roll. It would be nice in the future if an aftermarket sway bar can be offered, but again, who needs it unless you'll actually be autocrossing. It was just a note I put in the back of my head when I noticed how small the sway bar was.
The quality looks and feels very nice, and definitely looks as expensive as some of the higher end coilovers in the market. Only time and mileage will tell on how truly good of a quality this setup is and worth the money. So feel free to ask any questions, as the pictures should answer it all...
Opened up the trunk this sunshiny morning...
Attachment 317335
I started with what I thought was going to be the harder side to do first. The rear setup...
Attachment 317336
After realizing that I didn't have to take the entire trunk apart to get to the bolts, I was good to go...
Attachment 317337
Attachment 317338
Then of course came the front side, which I wish I had a scale to weigh the difference as the OEM strut was obviously heavier than the aftermarket setup. I extended the setup to try and match the OEM setup if you wanted the ride height to stay in bubba mode...
Attachment 317339
It's somewhat hard to see, but the bottom adjustable collar on the front is black in color, where the rear is a matching blue to the locking collar. In the picture on the rear, you can see, there is still more room to go lower.
Attachment 317340
Attachment 317341
Here's a picture almost a year ago in April when we first got her...
Attachment 317342
And today after I washed Dory...
Attachment 317343
Attachment 317344
Attachment 317345
Measurement-wise, I went with a safe 5" from the bottom of the fender to the top of the center of the rim on both front and rear.
I highly considered going air ride, talking with friends who have airbags on their respective rides, and even considered locating the compressor and hardware forward the engine bay, to keep the trunk space free. I've talked with reps from AirLift and AccuAir and was still not convinced after weighing out my options.
I refused to cut or heat the springs as I come from the lowrider world in the early 90's, and have seen a good amount of bad mishaps happen to cars when lowered in that fashion. Considering my wife drives Dory more than I do, it wasn't even a consideration. Not to mention, I'm not cutting springs on a $20,000
when there are other options.When it came down to it, the research I did with Kido Racing was worth taking a shot.
So today, I found time to install the setup, and must say, it's very easy(if you have experience with doing suspension work before.) Installing the front did not have any surprises, and the Kido Racing coilover setup is a perfect application with no kind of fabrication. The rear was even easier in that you only have to take the false floor surrounding the spare tire to obtain the bolts holding the struts in from the interior. You do not have to take the subwoofer or any of the side panels off in the trunk.
I do not plan on autocrossing, nor even racing Dory, in that I already have a DSM for that purpose. With that said, I can't honestly give an opinion in the area of "competitive racing." In other words, I can't tell you if the coilover setup gives understeer, or oversteer. I can tell you, that at the softest setting, the street ride is nice and firm, so I can only imagine if I balanced out the front and rear with some added stiffness to the setting. I can also comment that on circular/cloverleaf onramps/offramps, there is much less body sway or side to side roll.
Some may justify that the front strut tower brace gives the same improvement, but that's just hard for me to believe. Then again, I opted to go with the coilover setup before a strut tower brace to give my opinion on body roll. It would be nice in the future if an aftermarket sway bar can be offered, but again, who needs it unless you'll actually be autocrossing. It was just a note I put in the back of my head when I noticed how small the sway bar was.
The quality looks and feels very nice, and definitely looks as expensive as some of the higher end coilovers in the market. Only time and mileage will tell on how truly good of a quality this setup is and worth the money. So feel free to ask any questions, as the pictures should answer it all...
Opened up the trunk this sunshiny morning...
Attachment 317335
I started with what I thought was going to be the harder side to do first. The rear setup...
Attachment 317336
After realizing that I didn't have to take the entire trunk apart to get to the bolts, I was good to go...
Attachment 317337
Attachment 317338
Then of course came the front side, which I wish I had a scale to weigh the difference as the OEM strut was obviously heavier than the aftermarket setup. I extended the setup to try and match the OEM setup if you wanted the ride height to stay in bubba mode...
Attachment 317339
It's somewhat hard to see, but the bottom adjustable collar on the front is black in color, where the rear is a matching blue to the locking collar. In the picture on the rear, you can see, there is still more room to go lower.
Attachment 317340
Attachment 317341
Here's a picture almost a year ago in April when we first got her...
Attachment 317342
And today after I washed Dory...
Attachment 317343
Attachment 317344
Attachment 317345
Measurement-wise, I went with a safe 5" from the bottom of the fender to the top of the center of the rim on both front and rear.
Apr 27, 2020, 12:48 PM
#58
Evolving Member
Not sure if these are still available, in any case these would have to come from overseas. There are plenty of options available, including Outlander Sport specific, and in addition all 08+ Lancer coilovers except Evo X will fit (there are tons of choices). Most go with lancer ones since there are so many options. If you haven't joined the FB group please join. The forum is "semi-active". The FB is current has a lot of members/knowledge and can answer all your questions much faster than here. Name of the group is "Mitsubishi Outlander Sport/RVR/ASX Enthusiasts"
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