What did you do to/for your Outlander Sport (ASX / RVR) today?
Oct 26, 2015, 07:44 AM
#751
congrats! easiest way is to Plastidip it black - can use Glossifier on top of the black if you want it shiny. use 5-6 coats, and if you change your mind, it just peels right off. i've done the side vents of my Evo X, and some chrome trim on my G37 with it.
not a whole lot of aftermarket stuff for the OS.
here for accessories: https://www.mitsubishiparts.net/part...subcat1=181980
try Aliexpress (and eBay) for misc bits:
http://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?...hText=2012+rvr
don't do a front end bra - they trap moisture and will make your paint cloudy, unless you remove it on a regular basis (pain-in-the-****). ok to put on for a long road trip if you remove it after, but not something to leave on all the time.
not a whole lot of aftermarket stuff for the OS.
here for accessories: https://www.mitsubishiparts.net/part...subcat1=181980
try Aliexpress (and eBay) for misc bits:
http://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?...hText=2012+rvr
don't do a front end bra - they trap moisture and will make your paint cloudy, unless you remove it on a regular basis (pain-in-the-****). ok to put on for a long road trip if you remove it after, but not something to leave on all the time.
Oct 26, 2015, 07:49 AM
#752
Vinyl wrap that I had extra laying around from wrapping my roof. I had the stock wind deflector but it didn't do anything. And the bras are too expensive and I read all the time that they damage the paint and promote rot. Now that winter is coming salt will destroy my hood. I think it will be good protection for now
Thumbs Up!
Oct 28, 2015, 07:35 AM
#756
Evolved Member
A word of caution from a safety advocate; be prepared for significant drop in light output.
Accidentally I had a chance to see these aftermarket LED tail lights (both smoked and red) side by side with the OEM one about a month ago in Germany. The light output was the worst with the smoked one, somewhat better with the red LED version and the OEM was the brightest. The difference was even more pronounced in bright daylight. The turn signal and the reverse light were barely visible on the smoked version in bright light. If one really wants to go with the LED, he/she should pick rather the red one.
Nearly all the videos and most of the pictures advertising these products are shot in pitch darkness. Ask yourself, why? Some examples are here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jKVKxX0MiSA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vG4sM_QqKgM
Accidentally I had a chance to see these aftermarket LED tail lights (both smoked and red) side by side with the OEM one about a month ago in Germany. The light output was the worst with the smoked one, somewhat better with the red LED version and the OEM was the brightest. The difference was even more pronounced in bright daylight. The turn signal and the reverse light were barely visible on the smoked version in bright light. If one really wants to go with the LED, he/she should pick rather the red one.
Nearly all the videos and most of the pictures advertising these products are shot in pitch darkness. Ask yourself, why? Some examples are here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jKVKxX0MiSA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vG4sM_QqKgM
Oct 28, 2015, 09:46 AM
#757
Finally, I was able to locate a video, where the light output between the stock tail light and the aftermarket LED unit can be seen and compared directly:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p4bCXnJBMpg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p4bCXnJBMpg
Oct 28, 2015, 03:24 PM
#758
Evolved Member
Oct 29, 2015, 10:27 AM
#759
Evolved Member
Decor trim or dash noise silencer - It always gets worse before it gets better
I have been fighting with a cold weather related dashboard noise for a while. I think most people could have lived with it and just turn the volume of the stereo up. Not me.
The noise appeared to come from the top of the dashboard (slightly right from the center line) and disappeared as the cabin temperature rose. I put foam between the plastic and the defroster duct end but the popping like noise stayed. At some point (regretfully) I purchased and applied 3M dry silicone spray (08897), because I suspected that the noise is due to rubbing of the ends of the connecting plastic dashboard pieces. Once the silicone dried the issue become even worse. The silicone formed a film that in cold temperatures (near and below the freezing mark) increased the friction and new noises appeared. To fix this and also, yielding to my wife's complaint about the too monochromatic interior, I purchased a product named as gap molding (from Ebay, a 5m roll for $12) and installed it in some places. The result is shown in the attached pictures. It can be removed without any residues so, it is perfectly reversible mod. She likes it, I would prefer the silver version (as I learned that now many colors are available not just red, blue, and white). The "silicon spray damage" now has been taken care of but the original noise was still there.
In my desperate attempt I have found out that the back side of the sound insulating felt layer placed under the top of the dashboard is a sheet of paper (at least for the Japanese made cars, I cannot comment on the US production units) and this paper makes the popping noise upon touching to the flexing plastic near the windshield. I opened the top of the dashboard by prying between the defroster duct and the plastic and pushed some foams between the paper and the plastic. Popped the clips back and now it seems that the original noise is gone.
Take home messages: do not use dry silicon spray and do not give up if something bothers you.
The noise appeared to come from the top of the dashboard (slightly right from the center line) and disappeared as the cabin temperature rose. I put foam between the plastic and the defroster duct end but the popping like noise stayed. At some point (regretfully) I purchased and applied 3M dry silicone spray (08897), because I suspected that the noise is due to rubbing of the ends of the connecting plastic dashboard pieces. Once the silicone dried the issue become even worse. The silicone formed a film that in cold temperatures (near and below the freezing mark) increased the friction and new noises appeared. To fix this and also, yielding to my wife's complaint about the too monochromatic interior, I purchased a product named as gap molding (from Ebay, a 5m roll for $12) and installed it in some places. The result is shown in the attached pictures. It can be removed without any residues so, it is perfectly reversible mod. She likes it, I would prefer the silver version (as I learned that now many colors are available not just red, blue, and white). The "silicon spray damage" now has been taken care of but the original noise was still there.
In my desperate attempt I have found out that the back side of the sound insulating felt layer placed under the top of the dashboard is a sheet of paper (at least for the Japanese made cars, I cannot comment on the US production units) and this paper makes the popping noise upon touching to the flexing plastic near the windshield. I opened the top of the dashboard by prying between the defroster duct and the plastic and pushed some foams between the paper and the plastic. Popped the clips back and now it seems that the original noise is gone.
Take home messages: do not use dry silicon spray and do not give up if something bothers you.
Oct 29, 2015, 02:04 PM
#760
Evolved Member
Started removing the rear emblems today. Off came the MITSUBISHI name and the AWC emblems. Might move the AWC emblem to under the RVR lettering. Still have the diamonds (will likely replace with the large letters a la LAND ROVER). Still undecided about the RVR letters but they might get replaced with the Cyrillic version (backwards first R) if I get around to ordering it. I was surprised how easily the letters came off and there is no colour change underneath - surprised me for an almost 5 year old car. A little rubbing alcohol removed the glue and a quick claybar/wax treatment and you can't tell they were ever there.
Oct 30, 2015, 05:51 AM
#761
Evolved Member
I have been fighting with a cold weather related dashboard noise for a while. I think most people could have lived with it and just turn the volume of the stereo up. Not me.
The noise appeared to come from the top of the dashboard (slightly right from the center line) and disappeared as the cabin temperature rose. I put foam between the plastic and the defroster duct end but the popping like noise stayed. At some point (regretfully) I purchased and applied 3M dry silicone spray (08897), because I suspected that the noise is due to rubbing of the ends of the connecting plastic dashboard pieces. Once the silicone dried the issue become even worse. The silicone formed a film that in cold temperatures (near and below the freezing mark) increased the friction and new noises appeared. To fix this and also, yielding to my wife's complaint about the too monochromatic interior, I purchased a product named as gap molding (from Ebay, a 5m roll for $12) and installed it in some places. The result is shown in the attached pictures. It can be removed without any residues so, it is perfectly reversible mod. She likes it, I would prefer the silver version (as I learned that now many colors are available not just red, blue, and white). The "silicon spray damage" now has been taken care of but the original noise was still there.
In my desperate attempt I have found out that the back side of the sound insulating felt layer placed under the top of the dashboard is a sheet of paper (at least for the Japanese made cars, I cannot comment on the US production units) and this paper makes the popping noise upon touching to the flexing plastic near the windshield. I opened the top of the dashboard by prying between the defroster duct and the plastic and pushed some foams between the paper and the plastic. Popped the clips back and now it seems that the original noise is gone.
Take home messages: do not use dry silicon spray and do not give up if something bothers you.
The noise appeared to come from the top of the dashboard (slightly right from the center line) and disappeared as the cabin temperature rose. I put foam between the plastic and the defroster duct end but the popping like noise stayed. At some point (regretfully) I purchased and applied 3M dry silicone spray (08897), because I suspected that the noise is due to rubbing of the ends of the connecting plastic dashboard pieces. Once the silicone dried the issue become even worse. The silicone formed a film that in cold temperatures (near and below the freezing mark) increased the friction and new noises appeared. To fix this and also, yielding to my wife's complaint about the too monochromatic interior, I purchased a product named as gap molding (from Ebay, a 5m roll for $12) and installed it in some places. The result is shown in the attached pictures. It can be removed without any residues so, it is perfectly reversible mod. She likes it, I would prefer the silver version (as I learned that now many colors are available not just red, blue, and white). The "silicon spray damage" now has been taken care of but the original noise was still there.
In my desperate attempt I have found out that the back side of the sound insulating felt layer placed under the top of the dashboard is a sheet of paper (at least for the Japanese made cars, I cannot comment on the US production units) and this paper makes the popping noise upon touching to the flexing plastic near the windshield. I opened the top of the dashboard by prying between the defroster duct and the plastic and pushed some foams between the paper and the plastic. Popped the clips back and now it seems that the original noise is gone.
Take home messages: do not use dry silicon spray and do not give up if something bothers you.
Thanks so much for the info., the popping has been bothering me for years!!!! I have pulled the speedo to find it and the radio cluster, but no success. you are saying you pulled the radio bezel out and shoved foam in between the ac vents? or did you go a step further and pull the ac vents out and have to go deeper towards the windshield???
Oct 30, 2015, 07:13 AM
#762
Evolved Member
Thanks so much for the info., the popping has been bothering me for years!!!! I have pulled the speedo to find it and the radio cluster, but no success. you are saying you pulled the radio bezel out and shoved foam in between the ac vents? or did you go a step further and pull the ac vents out and have to go deeper towards the windshield???
What helped me is to pry open (position of the clips are indicated by red arrows) the defroster vent/dashboard connection just under the windshield (see the green arrows on the attached pictures). I tucked liberal amount of foamy sheets under the forward section as the arrow indicates. This lifted up slightly this forward section and the popping sound seems to be gone. I only had issue with the passenger side for some reason. Hope this clarification and image helps. It is extremely difficult to locate the exact source of the noise as the sound waves are bouncing in all directions from the various surfaces.
Oct 30, 2015, 10:50 AM
#764
Evolved Member
Just a bit of a difference during assembly of the OS/RVR can put you either side (rubbing/no rubbing).
Oct 30, 2015, 12:31 PM
#765
Evolved Member
Yeah my popping has always had the same popping starting around the end of year 1. I have tried a few time but where is sounds like the popping is coming from I could never find it. To me it sounded like it was always coming from right under the top of the dash at the point where the rounded top speedo cluster meets up with the top flat part of the dash. I have pulled it apart numerous times and could never find it so this is great news for me.