AWCAWD

When reversing I normally use the rearview mirrors,
so it seemed logical to me to put the rear display above the mirror in the same field of view. Somewhat similar logic goes with the front display: when going forward one looks at the edge of the hood, so the closest to this field of view is the bottom of the windshield at the center. I do not have a back-up camera but I suspect in bright sunlight the image is washed out (at least in the OS due to the angled center console). This is the situation when the additional beeping comes handy.

Yes, if you use hitch often I would recommend a switch to cut the power between the reverse light and the control box. There are two or three blank switches depending on the model you have. One more note: you definitely want a switch for the front sensors. Heavy rain, and snowfall activate the sensors and they would beep quite frequently without a switch.
I think they are paintable and also some sellers offer a wide variety of colors. It is highly unlikely that you will find the exact color match. For the most common colors: silver, white, red, black and grey the color difference could be negligible
I found a deep brown set for sale for $9.50 with free shipping:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4Pcs-Univers...EAAOSwnONZDKGY
This seller below offers several colors for a slightly higher ($17/kit) price:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Parking-Se...8AAOSwnbZYCG0S

Slow3v

Installed the factory (base) touchscreen radio and a pair of Kicker 3/4" tweeters to my '15 ES. It was originally equipped with the non-touchscreen radio and 4 speaker stereo.

I picked up a used (like new) touchscreen out of a '15 Lancer on eBay for $120, and it is plug and play. Now I can enjoy HD Radio and a nicer looking headunit, with slightly better sound quality and a more premium appearance. I added a set of Kicker 3/4" tweeters ($33, Amazon.com) to the factory sail panels. I had OEM tweeter harness' present behind the sail panels, so I tapped into those with plastic wire taps. I used the included "bass blockers" with the Kicker tweeters, and everything sounds great - a much needed improvement for sure.

All in all, for around $155, I recommend an upgrade like this to anyone with a base ES and the lackluster 4 speaker stereo.

For anyone that does this, the factory tweeter harness' are color coded. The blue wire is (+), the pink wire is (-) confirmed with my multimeter. If you wire these backwards, the speakers will be out of phase with the tweeters and it will cause a slight sound canceling effect.

AWCAWD

Nice work. I am also happy with the upgrade.
Interestingly in my 2012 the color code for the tweeter wires is the opposite and I have also checked it (pls see the attached wiring diagram).

Slow3v

I think there was a change with 13+ but don't quote me. Either way, for me, both doors had the same color wiring and the multimeter confirmed +/- to be the same for each!

AWCAWD

Possible roof rail additions (and even removal) has been discussed here earlier:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ou...oof-rails.html
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ou...-sport-es.html
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ou...l-removal.html

I have been looking for ways to add one for a while. The OEM version is not only insanely expensive but also not my favorite (the beauty is in the eye of the beholder I admit). The Aliexpress, Ebay imitations have limited use due to the fixing methods. I like the one that uses the four fix points but did not like that it is not directional.

Took a deep dive and pulled a pair of roof rails ($17+tax) from a wrecked 2010 Outlander and with some work I adapted it for the OS/RVR.
I ended up cutting both ends of the rails to the proper sizes as the center base plate seemed too difficult to reattach to the desired position and also the the slight arching of the rail appeared to be a better fit with my selection. I had to dremel/file/sand quite a bit of the bottom of the base plates. Besides the already existing four fix points I have drilled a whole to the roof molding trim only (can be plugged if I tired of the rails) and using construction glue I fixed a nut at the rear end of the gutters at each side (the result is like the spare tire fixing nut at the bottom of the trunk). I now have functional roof rails with three solid anchor points each side.
The project was not simple, I only recommend doing if one has the patience and some creativity for such work. Few pictures are attached for reference.

Landshark

looks great! a different look from factory, but nice.

leave the cross bars off when you're not using them for slightly better gas mileage, and less wind noise ....-

AWCAWD

Thanks.
My intention was to create a different look. I have not purchased the crossbars yet and intend to put them on only when needed. The benefit of the roof rails is that putting/removing the crossbars on takes a fraction of the time than installing the crossbars to the four fix-points.

AWCAWD

I do not wish to dominate this thread but lately the the activity of the forum has dropped so I decided to report some of the work I did recently.
I live in the rust belt and five years of such weather presented its first casualty.
I have noticed few days ago a chirping noise at idle and at low rpms.
It turned out that the welding on the heat shield designed to protect the drive shaft on the AWD models had perforated and allowed the shield to rattle. Only the AWD models are vulnerable to this. The difference between the FWD and AWD exhaust systems are displayed in the attached drawing. An image to locate this piece is also shown for reference.
I am afraid there is no pretty solution to this issue. I have used two clamps to tighten the shield to the pipe (will add pictures of my own). I am also not sure how efficient this shield is by default but I decided to keep it for now.

Landshark

did the same with big hose clamps on my Evo - the heatshields are the first victim to rust.

i took preventative measures with the OS and hit the underside with Fluid Film before every winter. so far, so good.

AWCAWD

During my last trip to my favorite junk yard I picked up a retractable cargo cover from an Audi A6 Avant for few bucks. I have disassembled it, cut the frame, trimmed the fabric/vinyl, rewound the spring and finally reassembled it before it was ready to be installed. The result is shown in the pictures. Now I have options whether I want the SUV type or hatch type cargo cover.

Hazenhigh

my shield went bad too, tied it with some wired, no more rattle, but recently i looked under and i am starting to see some surface rust on some parts under there, any recommendations to remedy this?

Landshark

Fluid Film the underside - i bought some in spray cans at Lowe's, and got a gallon of it at Advanced Auto to apply with a paint brush to get around areas i don't want to blast with the spray (exhaust, brakes, some rubber bits you want to avoid).

http://www.fluid-film.com/

Hazenhigh

thx for the info

AWCAWD

How many cans have you used for complete undercoating?
Thanks.

Landshark

around 2?

i don't get crazy with it - a guy i work with does inside the doors and frame rail of his truck - i just get the "visible" parts of the underside.

this will be my first time using the non-aerosol in the gallon can. i figured i can be a little more precise with it on a paintbrush. it stinks a bit if you get it on the exhaust, until it burns off.