mRVRsport

I will attempt to test out (& document) Alternate configurations to the stock DRL Option that's provided by the dealer >

LED Daytime Running Lights - $670*
+ Required > Front Corner Extension - $160
Total $830

Ex: 2013


First, I want to give credit to Wes (who came up with this particular location AND method in - Project Blackout)

Also, these modifications should work with headlight units in the ASX, RVR and even Lancers & EVOs!

*****

Proof of Concept - Prototype v.01




Turned on my HID Xenons, just to see how it looks all together.


Wiring (hookup & power on) and initial LED placement tests








Xenons are on here.

RA012124

Make sure they're firing down towards the headlights to get that overall glow throughout the headlights. Are you going to jump it to the parking lights harness? I just shoved my positive lead into the bulb socket, but I don't think it will hold for long that way. I'm also worried about the little bumps/notches I had to tape over on the headlights leaving a big pocket of air between the strip and headlight.

mRVRsport

The LED ribbon I have currently are front firing, so if I wanted to point them "down", there's no way for me to utilize the self-stick backing tape to secure it to current location...

I am using a custom wiring harness/plug that's a direct fit into the parking light socket. But, I will have to come up with something else if I want to power BOTH the parking bulb & these LEDs.

RA012124

Next time you test them, just lay the strip bulbs facing down into the headlights, close the hood, and turn off the your garage lights. I want you to feel the shock and awe as I did tonight to my surprise

TEXAS TRAVISTY

looks slick

dondi0210

Very Nice!

mRVRsport

Thanks guys.
I've gotten so much inspiration from all of you already, this is just my small contribution back to the community.

By no means this is the final "product". I'm just testing out what Wes has started.
I would Really like to have the LED strip INSIDE the lens housing.
But, from what Burton had pointed out, it does seem to be perma-sealed and I hate to break that seal knowing/seeing what happens to HID lens once moisture gets into the housing.
So, for now this is the best logical solution.

Also I'm wanting to tap into the stock DRL wiring/control instead of splicing into the parking lights, I'll let you guys know when I find more info on that..

RA012124

Aren't DRLs basically an ignition source? So just use a test light and see which one of the fuse slots turn on with ignition? I think that's what I should of done too. use one of those Fuse Tap add on adapters.

mRVRsport

No argument there.
It IS another way to accomplish the same result.

cadilak78

You guys are ahead of me on this one. I've been trying to find a Hayne's manual for our SUV's but they don't exist. I'm wanting to do HID's (or LED's) in my foglight housing and be able to use them without the headlights on. I did that on my last car for my "DRL's" Being able to splice them into the DRL wires would be ideal though, just haven't had the time to do so yet.

Good job by both of you!

captain766

I sent you a PM regarding this too, but figured out how to attach the install manual for the OEM DRLs here.

The OEM DRLs plug into and are controlled by the ETACs-ECU. They turn off under the following conditions:
1. Park lights or Headlights are on.
2. Parking Break is set.
3. Ignition is turned off (of course).

BTBean

I've thought about using one of these ^ and then running a lead to a power distribution block under the hood to wire all of the lights into. It would keep you from splicing into the other wires (although posi-taps are killer) and would make it easy to remove.

Burtonrider1002

I'm doing something similar. I ran a 10AWG wire to the rear cargo area and when I ever get around to it I will be using a dist. block to wire in a few things. I'm going to use it for power for my trailer wiring harness (I'm going to have LED lights on the jet ski trailer, minimal draw), and I want to add a 12V cigarette plug outlet back there for w/e I want to power (99% of the time my emergency flashlight will be plugged in, just so it's ready when I want it). In the future I may also use that dist. block for powering a second dash cam that would be pointed to the rear of the vehicle. This would be for security reasons (motion sensor for parking lots), and also if I ever get rear ended or w/e (imagine showing the police or your insurance a video of the asshat behind you texting as he plowed into your car).


Sorry, that was kinda off topic lol, but basically I agree, a distribution block is a great idea. It will also allow you to fuse each device separately for a safe amperage. And, if you want your lights controlled by something already wired into the car, you can always use a relay so as to not overload the OEM circuit.

PTlander

Hello everyone, thank you so much for these info.

I am still having problem to locate a 12V source to power up the LED inside the engine compartment fuse box. I want to use the fuse tap adapter also. Does anyone have any success? Please help.

Thank you so much,
pt

RA012124

I believe I tapped into the wire leading to my parking lights so that they are only on when I have my parking lights on. If you want them as DRLs, just get a test light and tap into every fuse with the accessory on.