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2015 outlander sport es 2.4L transmission issues

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Old Aug 7, 2018, 04:35 PM
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2015 outlander sport es 2.4L transmission issues

Has anyone experienced valve body issues with their transmission like tcc solenoid an if so how much did cost to get replaced an did you go threw the service department at the dealership?been bouncing back an forth with this issue all help greatly appreciated !!!
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Old Aug 8, 2018, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Jwilson87 View Post
Has anyone experienced valve body issues with their transmission like tcc solenoid an if so how much did cost to get replaced an did you go threw the service department at the dealership?been bouncing back an forth with this issue all help greatly appreciated !!!
As always, you should provide a bit more details to get somewhat valuable help.
1. Is your powertrain still under warranty? If so your expenses will be covered whatever the remedy will be. I suspect you might be out of warranty because of mileage (2015) that is why you are asking about cost.That would mean that the transmission fluid must have been changed (perhaps even more than once).
2. Have you changed the transmission fluid and if you did what exact fluid did you put in? ONLY DIAQUEEN CVT J4 is acceptable. Do not experiment with any widely available and cheaper alternatives. If you do not know whether it was changed I would recommend to get it done. You cannot do it yourself unless you have a proper pump as you have to take the old fluid out of the transmission cooler as well. Some dealership charges twice the amount of fluid required as they flush the system with new fluid first and then add the second batch to fill. Simply draining the fluid will not provide a proper change.
3. Are you the original owner of the car or another words did this erratic behavior occurred suddenly or you are just new to the CVT equipped cars? Many people coming from cars equipped with regular automatic transmission feel that the shifting of the CVT is not responsive enough.
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Old Aug 8, 2018, 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by AWCAWD View Post
As always, you should provide a bit more details to get somewhat valuable help.
1. Is your powertrain still under warranty? If so your expenses will be covered whatever the remedy will be. I suspect you might be out of warranty because of mileage (2015) that is why you are asking about cost.That would mean that the transmission fluid must have been changed (perhaps even more than once).
2. Have you changed the transmission fluid and if you did what exact fluid did you put in? ONLY DIAQUEEN CVT J4 is acceptable. Do not experiment with any widely available and cheaper alternatives. If you do not know whether it was changed I would recommend to get it done. You cannot do it yourself unless you have a proper pump as you have to take the old fluid out of the transmission cooler as well. Some dealership charges twice the amount of fluid required as they flush the system with new fluid first and then add the second batch to fill. Simply draining the fluid will not provide a proper change.
3. Are you the original owner of the car or another words did this erratic behavior occurred suddenly or you are just new to the CVT equipped cars? Many people coming from cars equipped with regular automatic transmission feel that the shifting of the CVT is not responsive enough.
powertrain is out of warranty by 16,000 miles, yes transmission fluid has been changed with DIAQUEEN CVT J4, and yes I am the original owner of the car had a 2013 Hyundai accent before this no issue like this ever i dont be at up on the car all highway miles error code p1740 comes up which is telling me tcc solenoid malfunction did research and found that's connected to the valve body but it acts right when it wants to
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Old Aug 8, 2018, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Jwilson87 View Post
powertrain is out of warranty by 16,000 miles, yes transmission fluid has been changed with DIAQUEEN CVT J4, and yes I am the original owner of the car had a 2013 Hyundai accent before this no issue like this ever i dont be at up on the car all highway miles error code p1740 comes up which is telling me tcc solenoid malfunction did research and found that's connected to the valve body but it acts right when it wants to
Meaning the rpms get erratic when at a stop an engine acts like it wants to stall but its intermittent sometimes it does it an sometimes it dont
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Old Aug 8, 2018, 09:10 PM
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I am sorry for your troubles. It can happen to anyone of us, so we would like to hear the most detailed description possible.
P1740 is a fairly generic code. If you have not done so you may need to use a more specific code reader (e.g. MUT III used by the dealers). It may resolve the last digit and helps you to nail down the problem:

P1741 Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) control error
P1742 Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) solenoid failed on (turns on MIL)
P1743 Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) solenoid failed on (turns on TCIL)
P1744 Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) system mechanically stuck in off position
P1745 Monitoring of percentage change in gear ratio
P1746 Electronic Pressure Control (EPC) solenoid open circuit (low input)
P1747 Electronic Pressure Control (EPC) solenoid short circuit (high input)
P1749 Electronic Pressure Control (EPC) solenoid failed low.
Not all the above are necessarily applicable for CVTs, they are all Mitsubishi specific codes for automatic transmissions (CVT and conventional)

Do you get a "Service required warning" in the central display with a gear symbol and an exclamation mark within? If not it would be odd. Most people with this problem complained about the service light before actual symptoms.
I believe there is a diagnosis for the dealer for this. You should find the procedure in the service manual: Your problem could be either mechanical or electrical depending on the exact cause/code.
2011 OS service manual availability
How does your CVT fluid look? It should be fairly light yellowish the most.
Here is another source for the diagnosis (go to page 23A-32):
CVT diagnosis

Last edited by AWCAWD; Aug 9, 2018 at 08:58 AM. Reason: adding another source for diagnosis step-by-step procedure
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Old Aug 9, 2018, 06:33 AM
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Just one more comment: The 2.0 and 2.4 engines have somewhat different CVTs. Also, from 2015 on the 2.0 L versions have also received some modifications.This topic has already been discussed here before:
2.0 L and 2.4 L OS/RVR models have different CVTs
The diagnosis posted above is from the 2.0L (2011) service manual. It could not be night-and-day difference but there might be some caveats with the introduction of the "stepping/shifting" versions.
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Old Aug 9, 2018, 02:14 PM
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Yes I have got the transmission service require light before buts it's just like the check engine light they dont stay on long enough so I can get to the dealership for them to check it an when I do which is next day the dealership says theres nothing wrong an the car is running fine after taking it for a test drive an this been going on since 97,000 m
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Old Aug 10, 2018, 07:40 AM
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If I were in your shoes I would do the following first:
Based on your mileage your car should be running on the third batch of CVT fluid. I do not know with how much confidence you can state that your transmission contains the proper fluid and the change was done appropriately. I would buy the product pictured below and ask the dealers how they perform the change. There is no room for trust here, you passed that stage. You buy the sealed product (do not accept any bulk fluid offered by the dealer no matter what they say, you need min. 7.1 L of it if the dealer has the proper pump, if not 11 L) and have the change and flush done in front of your sight or do it yourself but you will need a pump. Your transmission is not dead, so buying or rebuilding a transmission is not warranted yet not to mention the trust involved in the rebuild (which I would not have). Currently you need to improve the performance. This is your best and cheapest bet.
For reference I am attaching the procedure for the CVT fluid replacement. As you see simple draining only replaces 5.5 L of the total 7.1 L. This leaves 22% of your old fluid in the system (mostly in the cooler and the tubes to and from). Even if you do the second flush this procedure will still keep ~5% of the old fluid ( as you dilute the 1.6 L 22% concentrated CVT fluid left in to 7.1 L total volume). Now you may appreciate how a sloppy job (say simple drain and refill) even with the proper fluid is endangering your CVT. I do not even want to go to evaluate what the consequences are for using the incorrect fluid.
If you decide to buy the valve body assembly keep in mind that you have a Jatco JF016E / CVT8 Transmission and not a JF011E. Good luck and keep us informed.


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Last edited by AWCAWD; Aug 10, 2018 at 08:15 AM.
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Old Aug 10, 2018, 10:42 AM
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When i had my 2015 2.4L GT, it did that all the time (the rpm bounce at a stop and felt like stalling) . The dealer told me that i had a dirty throttle and would be 130 to clean it out.
I said no and cleaned it myself. It worked for a while and it was bad again.

Ended up trading the car in at 50K miles.
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Old Aug 10, 2018, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by AWCAWD View Post
If I were in your shoes I would do the following first:
Based on your mileage your car should be running on the third batch of CVT fluid. I do not know with how much confidence you can state that your transmission contains the proper fluid and the change was done appropriately. I would buy the product pictured below and ask the dealers how they perform the change. There is no room for trust here, you passed that stage. You buy the sealed product (do not accept any bulk fluid offered by the dealer no matter what they say, you need min. 7.1 L of it if the dealer has the proper pump, if not 11 L) and have the change and flush done in front of your sight or do it yourself but you will need a pump. Your transmission is not dead, so buying or rebuilding a transmission is not warranted yet not to mention the trust involved in the rebuild (which I would not have). Currently you need to improve the performance. This is your best and cheapest bet.
For reference I am attaching the procedure for the CVT fluid replacement. As you see simple draining only replaces 5.5 L of the total 7.1 L. This leaves 22% of your old fluid in the system (mostly in the cooler and the tubes to and from). Even if you do the second flush this procedure will still keep ~5% of the old fluid ( as you dilute the 1.6 L 22% concentrated CVT fluid left in to 7.1 L total volume). Now you may appreciate how a sloppy job (say simple drain and refill) even with the proper fluid is endangering your CVT. I do not even want to go to evaluate what the consequences are for using the incorrect fluid.
If you decide to buy the valve body assembly keep in mind that you have a Jatco JF016E / CVT8 Transmission and not a JF011E. Good luck and keep us informed.


.
Thank you for the assistance I swear you been big help you have given me more info on this issue than the dealership, and the corporation
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Old Aug 10, 2018, 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by jono119 View Post
When i had my 2015 2.4L GT, it did that all the time (the rpm bounce at a stop and felt like stalling) . The dealer told me that i had a dirty throttle and would be 130 to clean it out.
I said no and cleaned it myself. It worked for a while and it was bad again.

Ended up trading the car in at 50K miles.
Damn I guess I'm not only one with this issue
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