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vince126 Nov 16, 2009 07:23 PM


Originally Posted by AJR-Coco (Post 7717451)
My intake is sold ladies and gentlemen...

Stock boost supposedly should be 1.1 bar around 17 psi taper around 15 psi
23 Psi taper down to 20 psi sounds normal but cranking the PSI up i suggest you get a tune. AND your car will run really bad if you crank up your boost with no aftermarket exhaust

The exhaust basically help you get more air flowing out when there is more pressure. So basically the more psi with the TBE it makes a huge difference

By the way my turbo is for sale! i am going with an aftermarket getting my MR 6SPD reinforced by shepard and cranking it to 30 PSI

im on the works P2 flash, its suppose to be 20psi all day. and it was fine when i was in california, as soon as i put 94 oct + colder temp, i started seeing 23-24psi peaks.

i dont think its a real problem, but i would rather get a real tune and push out some more power.


as for the MTL and Mt90 good to see good results :)

AJR-Coco Nov 16, 2009 08:58 PM

A correct tune will always give you the max potential to your car! But i don't see why putting in 94 oct and colder temp will make you boost higher?

007WRX Nov 16, 2009 09:51 PM

The colder temp totally changes the density of the air. Thats why your car always feels faster at night, more boost!

vince126 Nov 16, 2009 09:56 PM


Originally Posted by 007WRX (Post 7717937)
The colder air totally changes the density of the air. Thats why your car always feels faster at night, more boost!

QFT

i'll wait until i get a response from Works regarding the MBC before i throw it in. they use their own lines from the stock BCS, so i need to know exactly what they did anything else with the vac lines. i dont think its a problem since im removing the stock BCS out of the system completely, and the lines going to and from it.

the LICP can cause boost pressure to go up also, since there will be less piping in the intake charge. im lookin forward to seeing some good results...when it gets here anyways lol.

AJR-Coco Nov 17, 2009 12:05 AM

Sorry but what i don't understand is why would colder temp change the density of air would give you more boost?

I thought having colder air/temp will allow better cooling, which means the car would pull a little bit faster, but does not create more boost. The reason is because the engine wants to put more fuel to reach the operating temperature.

why would the air affect the boost i thought the boost was controlled by the actuator?

samurai85 Nov 17, 2009 11:34 AM

OK so this still doesn't answer my question.
Why am I boosting 20psi spike to 23psi? Stock everything....NO MBC/EBC.
I thought evo's boost solenoid doesnt do ECU controlled boost, so i don't understand why I am boosting so high.

vince126 Nov 17, 2009 12:34 PM


Originally Posted by samurai85 (Post 7719281)
OK so this still doesn't answer my question.
Why am I boosting 20psi spike to 23psi? Stock everything....NO MBC/EBC.
I thought evo's boost solenoid doesnt do ECU controlled boost, so i don't understand why I am boosting so high.

dont worry, most Evo IX do that, especially now that its getting cold. just keep running 94oct gas and wait for a tune, or run an MBC. the stock Evo does run extremely rich, so a temporary boost spike is really no concern as long as you run good gas.

as for boost increase i really cant get into any more depth than we already told you lol.

cold air is denser, therefore the turbo has become much muh more efficient by the time its 3500rpm the turbo would compress much more air volumn due to the fact that its denser than it would when it was hot out therefore reaching your targeted boost too fast and overshoots.

Your car sees this and quickly cuts the boost to protect itself.

you can google it if you wish, you probably find some better answers out there.

apagan01 Nov 17, 2009 01:50 PM


Originally Posted by vince126 (Post 7717003)
great idea, ive been really surprised lately of what Lordco can bring in lol, and they give awesome discounts to the military. I got a set of Hawks HPS pads for the Suby for 140$!!!

i just picked up Redline MT90 and Redline MTL for dirt cheap there. i think they will be my source of parts from now on.

ive been looking for the Vibrant MAF Adaptor so i can run Amsoil cone filter, but they said 3-6 weeks....at least they can get it.

the ricer in me likes to hear the WHOOOOSSSHHHH sound of the spool lol.

Get if from AMS i think is the same price, or lancershop.com for the MAF adaptor

apagan01 Nov 17, 2009 01:53 PM


Originally Posted by samurai85 (Post 7717421)
I am using MTL+MT90 mix in my MR tranny and its very smooth. I like it a lot. But i don't dare put anything but OEM fluids in the rear diff and transfer case haha i've heard of too many horror stories, even amsoil i'm afraid.

Many to many customers running the lfuid in the TC and rear diff and they have had zero issues, think about it synthetic VS non synthetic ;)

vince126 Nov 17, 2009 02:17 PM


Originally Posted by apagan01 (Post 7719691)
Get if from AMS i think is the same price, or lancershop.com for the MAF adaptor

i found a distributor in Edmonton that will ship amsoil stuff :X unfortunately it was too late, i already bought the MT90 and MTL from lordco with a good discount. I still wished i went with Amsoil instead, but Redline is fine.

BUT i ordered the Amsoil severe gear, got to my door for 30$ : / 12$ shipping is a little crazy. I was more worried about my Transfer case than the transmission since i still have the clutch pill in.

i just contacted lancershop and im sending them the money tonight :)

now all i need is the Amsoil filter!

Apagan you are just sneaky, popping up all over the place.

samurai85 Nov 17, 2009 03:15 PM

Details on this clutch pill? I've read about it but forgot the details.

josel_atr Nov 17, 2009 03:21 PM

hey guys, go in the Northwest section, Aaron from ER just posted some details on the Dyno Day in Mid Dec.

vince126 Nov 17, 2009 03:23 PM


Originally Posted by samurai85 (Post 7719942)
Details on this clutch pill? I've read about it but forgot the details.

i prevents the heavy shock load when you dropping the clutch (which you shouldnt) it prevents the clutch from transferring all the load traight to the transmission and transfer case, if your wheels dont spin. it delays full clutch engagement, so you'll burn your clutch instead of blowing up your T-case and or Transmission.

im going to remove mine when i put the SS Clutch line in, the pill itself is in the slave cylinder i believe, there are lots of instructions here on how to remove it.

it just makes the clutch feels much more predictable apparently.

samurai85 Nov 17, 2009 03:36 PM


Originally Posted by vince126 (Post 7719967)
i prevents the heavy shock load when you dropping the clutch (which you shouldnt) it prevents the clutch from transferring all the load traight to the transmission and transfer case, if your wheels dont spin. it delays full clutch engagement, so you'll burn your clutch instead of blowing up your T-case and or Transmission.

im going to remove mine when i put the SS Clutch line in, the pill itself is in the slave cylinder i believe, there are lots of instructions here on how to remove it.

it just makes the clutch feels much more predictable apparently.

Interesting... thanks for the explanation. I just looked it up.
For anyone interested: http://www.evomoto.com/tech_info.php...=3_4&tech_id=4 , good read!

What do you guys think of the ETS intake filter?

007WRX Nov 17, 2009 03:54 PM

I have the HKS Hybrid filter in mine. Noticed a little increase in noise.

Random shot:

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2602/...44aca439_o.jpg


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