That's nice to hear, but can you offer any hard proof to back up this comment. Don't take insult of this question, just inquiring as an informed and educated buyer. {thumbup}
I guess some searching is in order.

I would think the evidence of having been constantly tuning evos all over the United States for the past three years would be about as conclusive as you can get in this regard

There is no doubt that I have tuned more evos than an other tuner in trhe United States

The way bad news and BS flys around this Evolutionm.net community I am sure there would be dozens and dozens of Dyno Flash customers complaining by the score if there were any issues of this kind

The fact is that no tuner can warrant that modified cars will be 100% reliable, especially where in many cases the parts and installation are slected and installed by third parties.

However, this said, I am very proud of the success that I have had with my tuning and the almost total lack of any problems which my customers have experienced

I really think it boarders on the idiotic for any long time member here to dispute the fact that my customers have enjoyed a very postive reliability record

Seondly, if you want to VERIFY and observe how the stock ecu works, all you have to do is fix your high and low octane ignition maps the same and then log and obesrve when and under what conditions the ecu will pull timing.

My position is not a guess or a "feeling" its repeatable and verifyiable.

Thanks for your concern

I really don't know how to take this comment honestly and to whom it is directed. So I will just make a quick assessment and comment, so please don't take offense. Just because someone is a long time member and ask's questions as to the nature of your reliablity in your tunes does not make someone blind to the fact that some have not had positive experiences with your tunes. No one is perfect, but one should not try to make it sound as so. Many people are pleased with some tuner's, and some are not. Also, it is not about the quantity of the work, but the quality that matters. Not to insinuate anything ill. Also, why would you say,"it boarders on the idiotic for any long time member here to dispute the fact that my customers have enjoyed a very postive reliability record"?? Why would any member new or old to question a vendor about the reliability of his tune be idiotic makes no sense. This should not be based on length of time being a member, that's just being an intelligent and responsible consumer.

As soon as I get my cable for EcuFlash, I will review my tune and upload my map and data logs for review.

Have a nice night.

I appologize if I came off as sounding harsh. However, this particular subject is a sore point for me as I have always strived to make my tuning calibrations ultra conservative and reliable yet since day ONE of my business I have had to fend off accusations and insinuations from competeing vendors about the manner in which I tune.

After three years of this it is growing old.

I think my point is very clear but I will elaborate in case i did not make it clear enough

I have tuned a LOT of evos using the methods I have developed over the past three years

My CUSTOMERS DO NOT have any issues of knock related engine failures

This is after installing my tunes in several thousand evos and some of them going over 100,000 miles

LONG TIME MEMBERS on these forums SHOULD be aware of these facts

I would expect a brand new Evo owner may have concerns but people who have been active on these forums should already know that the Dyno Flash is a tested and established tuning product and has had a good reliability record

:) al may not always get everything right (make sure you very clearly state what you want when getting him to flash, such that there can be absolutely no discrepency), but his tunes are proven. I have had 2 flashes from him. I've had my communication errors and such with him, but the tunes in and of themselves are quite good. The first flash gave noticeable gains, and let me tell you, if I could not nuke the motor... it was a good tune. Then I got another flash for big injectors and cams, car runs beautifully. I got ecu+ and there is definately a -little- room for improvement, but when anything goes wrong or something unexpected happens, I just pull my ecu+ tune and go back to Al's tune, which is just as safe as stock. No knock, a good deal too rich (but prolly something to do with our miscommunication), but still making more power. Now that I have ecuflash (haven't used it yet), I'll actually be able to look at his tune and figure out what makes it so powerful yet safe, and maybe expound on it further to push the car to the limits that I'd like it to meet.

Dayton EVO

FWIW I had the same reservations that you did when I was considering getting a DynoFlash. And while nothing in this world is truly 100% Al is not just trying to sell you. While there are other tuners out there Al has tuned more Evos than the rest with very good results.

I did the research that you have alluded to and found that the DynoFlashes are comfortably safe. Besides how else are you going to get your Evo tuned for this price by a pro!

That being said, Al is hard to get a hold of sometimes but that is because he is busy--really.

could we please keep this on topic:beer:

I'd love to keep this on topic. anyone w/ ecu+ know why the ecuflash program might not be READING my ecu? Do I have to do that jumper/switch thing if I just want to read it at this point? I thought it was neccessary if you wanted to write to it. If so, or even if you have good info on how it's to be done (i suck at electronics) please PM me with any info you find helpful. Tom hasn't answered my email.

I'd otherwise have a couple tunes to post up I'm sure.

Ok, I understand what you guys are saying and I have not alluded to do any searchs. I have found every positive and every bad (I even read the ones that got deleted, of course before they were wiped at that time)and read many thousands of posts on here since the inception of this site, even before becoming a member. So with this said, back to the topic of this thread. {thumbup}

As for posting up my current tune/map, there will be no issues posting in this thread for review correct?







BTW, he tuned my Evo a while back and I was just making a neutral assessment. So by no means am I new to his tuning.:lol:

im almost begging to wake up one day and see my flash in the email box :(

Do not make the low and high octane maps the same!!!

1. Recently I've had an EVO IX on my dyno with Tuner 'A' flash and I audibly heard knocking in the engine and the spark plugs and had pieces of ALuminum bedded all over the electrode tip and ceramic. This was on a EVO IX with only 1800 miles!!! poor engine... The timing was solid as a rock and never changed, yet it was detonating badly.

2. The manufacturer puts a low octane timing map for a reason!! If you run the boost too high, if your tune is too aggresive, then it start to revert to lower timing #'s.
It's there for a safety reason! It's there so if there is detonation going on it will learn and run lower timing to avoid detonation. A good analogy would be shoving your hand in a pot of boiling water, you'll get burned each time over and over again. Or you can 'learn' that the water will hurt you and avoid the boiling water!! You don't want to be running the car on the knock sensor all the time, especially a turbo car. Will it blow up the car? eventually it will hurt something.

No competent tuner will set these maps the same for a customers car driven on the street.

Good points. I guess for those of us who have been provided flat maps, we should back off the low octane map a bit. I am thinking about the same percentages that the stock maps provide. Is that correct?

What about the arguement that going into the low octane map keeps you there too long. Whereas if you let the ECU (not the ignition map as mine is flat also) timing adjust for knock it recovers more quickly. Is the timing is pulled by the knock sensor filters via another algorithm?

Which brings me to an important question. How long does it take you to go back into the high octane map provided all of the engine parameters give the ECU the green light?

Also do you know how the load is calculated by the ECU???

back on topic...

I've been doing a bunch of logging/tuning over the last couple of days using the EVOScan scan software & a simple log reader created by an Evom member. The result is a whole new and improved map with which I get ZERO knock counts in basically any hard acceleration situation.

Using some of the advise of others I've scaled down my low octain/timing maps from the high ones. From what I've seen as long as you don't knock you will always be in the high map. I like the safety of the ECU having the room to be able to pull timing & add fuel with the two maps. I can honestly say the car pulls MUCH harder now then when I had both maps the same and I dyno'ed last weekend (300HP & 290ishTQ)

My mods are K&N panel filter, 3" TBE, Walbro, & MBC spiking to 1.5bar. All I have left to due now is tune the midrage area which I've highlighted in GREY for more power and its done.
http://images1.snapfish.com/34749%3B...%3A88587nu0mrj

http://images1.snapfish.com/34749%3B...A%3A7956nu0mrj

http://images1.snapfish.com/34749%3B...A%3A7954nu0mrj

Good job!
With a little knowledge and patience it's not that hard to make the car run well and be safe.

My personal EVO has a stock motor, cams, IC, ect & one of our GT3076 turbo kits, it makes 385-390whp on our dyno on 93 oct. We took it to the CMP practice session last week and Mark Daddio & John K drove the car hard for two days at the road course, guess what? my timing stays just where i put it! I dyno'd the car after the abusive weekend and the car actually picked up 5whp and runs in the high octane map. If the car is tuned correctly it will stay in the high octane maps, if there is detonation or a bad tune, it will start reverting to the low ocatane map areas. The car would not last long on a road course if it was detonating.

I'm not sure about how long and how many knock events it takes to actually start interpolating between the low octane maps. I also don't know if and how long it takes to go back to full high octane timing. I do know that if you are detonating and the ecu is keeping the low timing there for a long time then there is probably something causing it. You can reset your battery to start off at the high octane maps again but I would address the issue of why the car is starting to run in the low octane map region first. And also you don't want to be riding on the knock sensor all the time, it's just not safe.