I am pretty sure that when going w/ Revolver cams, it is highly recommended to go w/ a stand-alone. David Buschur did some cam swaps from HKS 280s to Revolvers on various evos and they all saw nice gains. However, they were all cars running AEM EMS. So if you will only be sticking w/ the stock ECU, your cam choices won't entail Revolver, JUN, Piper and the others with wild ramp rates. The MAF is just unable to read properly with these cams. Maybe someday someone will figure it out, but for now, no one I have heard of has had good enough luck to warrant going with them when running stock ecu.
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u CAN run aggressive cams on the stock ECU, however the highest gains r seen on a standalone. u can also get the MAP sensor kit from MACH V which will work with stock ECU as well. there are hundreds of evo members on MLR that run big cams on stock ECU's. this is all tuner dependent...
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Originally Posted by housedj
u CAN run aggressive cams on the stock ECU, however the highest gains r seen on a standalone. u can also get the MAP sensor kit from MACH V which will work with stock ECU as well. there are hundreds of evo members on MLR that run big cams on stock ECU's. this is all tuner dependent...
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all i'm saying is that there are other cams out there that dont require valvetrain work to see similar gains when running stock ecu.
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Maybe I was too vague in my original question. I was asking if anyone had firsthand knowledge of which set of 280's produced more power comparitively. My thinking was this: given the same mods on the same car, if you intslled HKS, then Comp 280's, which would give the most usable HP & trq, I now realize that I should have been more specific based upon the vast assortment of answers received.
While I appriciate all the replies that I've received, I'm not looking at any cams that require an extencive list of support mods other than what I listed in my original post(ie. head work, springs,retainers,etc.). So that eliminates Jun,Revolver,etc, etc. I'm basically down to HKS,Buddy Club,Comp, Crower. I've never heard of Helix cams before and just recently heard of GSC. I'm tending to think bsaed on available info that the 272's would be the best compromise. I'm looking for the most bang for the buck,best quality & reliability at the best price, so any recommendations along these lines would be great. Thanks again for all the replies. |
nigletsyz,
What kind of power are you producing, seems like you and I have very simuler mods, minus the LICP and cams. I was thinking of going with a 280/272, how do you like it? |
i just put my hks 280s in 2 days ago, and i love them
it pulls so hard all the way to 7grand, cant wait to get tuned |
So your driving with them un-tuned and notice a big diff, any loss down low? What other mods do you have?
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Originally Posted by Ted B
In short, if one cannot interpret a cam card, he won't be able to intelligently discuss cam differences.
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How about it?
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Originally Posted by Sgt Blamo
How about it?
I was just talking to someone that was quoting this 13 month old dynosheet to someone and I realized it is time to hit the dyno and update the sig so we can see what these cams are really doing now at 123.71mph traps on stock turbo. Notions like, "you need AEM or standalone to run these cams", "you need standalone to get these to idle", "280's are too long of a duration for stock turbo car", "you want high lift cams with your stock ecu", "you need upgraded valvetrain to run HKS 280's", "HKS cams damage your valve seals" is all nonsense. With 134 camshaft installations in the Evo application under my belt I have yet to see any proof to any of these claims. Many cars, I have installed, uninstalled and reinstalled shorter duration cams to 280 duration. HKS 280 280 is my recommendation. Compcams are a little tough to find. HKS cams have been proven over and over again. You can't really argue with Buschur's testing of the 280 over the 272 dyno of +15whp months ago. I have not seen Compcams 280's shine as of yet, however I have installed them in other Evo's. If you decided on a shorted duration cam without the need for upgraded valvetrain. GSC cams would get my vote. Keep in mind Kyle that we can both install these AND tune your car locally or at Fynetune next weekend if you are interested. PM me if you want more information. {thumbup} |
Originally Posted by housedj
sgt blamo, the most important feature on cams is LIFT!!!! cams with lift make the most power but people 1/2ass their cam installs so they either don't make as much as they thought or they end up with the dreded "lifter tick". if u want a 280 cam, Tomei is the ONLY choice as they have 11.8mm of lift. it is HIGHLY recommended that u build the head to run a cam this aggressive as these cams are designed for a 6-10K rpm range. the only cams more aggressive than those are the Piper Drag Race cams. 290 duration with 12mm lift. u will need their valve springs & need to switch to mechanical lifters to run those.
these r the supporting mods needed for a cam install to be done correctly & to make the MOST power: built head (preferrably Cosworth) head bolts (ARP, JUN) pistons (Omega or Tomei) rods/rod bolts (Carrillo) head gasket (Cometic) timing belt (kevlar-Greddy, Tomei) valve springs (JUN) valve guides (JUN) Ti retainers (JUN) cam gears (Tomei, HKS, JUN) intake manifold (HKS Kansai Service, JUN) addl fuel mods to support extra flow reflash w/at least 4hrs of undisturbed dyno time (or MoTeC ECU-preferred) depending on the tuner, expect anywhere from 80-125WHP increase from the above setup... {thumbup} |
Originally Posted by CO_VR4
. . . Lobe ramp angles and many other aspects of cam design don't lend themselves to cam card comparison.
Which only furthers my point. |
How the idle ? anyone have a dyno graphs with these cams installed ?
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http://www.amsperformance.com/store/...roducts_id=974
ONLY $50 MORE THAN HKS............ |
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