I did mine with the car on risers, with the wheel still on the car. I had a good angle for a small torch, but didn't need it. See below.


I used a good fitting allen wrench socket and a 12" 3/8 drive L-bar. Since I had a very tight fit with the socket, I decided to give it a try before heating it. The 12" L-bar does not give huge leverage, but I heard the distinctive "crack" from breaking the locktite bond, and unthreaded it out in about 30 seconds. YMMV, so don't use this example as a new set of install instructions :) IN OTHER WORDS, FOLLOW THE FP INSTRUCTIONS TO THE LETTER. :)

THIS IS INCORRECT. ANYTIME you crank your motor, the oil pump is pumping as long at it is primed (i.e., not a brand new motor build). The oil pump is driven by the timing belt. If you want to get oil pressure without actually starting your motor and are very careful, pull the MFI fuse or disable the fuel pump circuit to avoid washing down your cylinder walls, pull the spark plugs to give less compression resistance, and turn your motor over in 10 second bursts until you have oil pressure on the gauge.

Remember, feeding the turbo from the filter gets it pressure earlier in the oil feed circuit than feeding from the head, so it won't take as long to get pressure to the turbo as before...

lol

I will be installing mine today....I was hoping to get the new 80mm cover so I can do both at the same time but looks like it's 2 weeks out. : (

i just drained my bank account buying this turbo and now i gotta spend 150 on the line kit:eek:!!! i hope itll be ok for a couple of months with the regular one. and i am relatively new with evos but i am reading about priming the turbo when putting it in and when i put a new turbo in on my wrx i just pulled the ignition fuse so there the car wouldnt turn over and waited for the oil light to come on. i can do the same on my evo right?

I did not prime the turbo when I did swap. The turbo should already have a little bit of oil on the shaft. This will be enough till the pump sends it up. I ran the stock line for a few months before changeing over in order to retain my warrenty.

cool that makes me feel better. thanks!! yeah i mean pulling the fuse was easy on my subie do ill try it on the evo for some cheap insurance. i bought my turbo used so do you think it still has oil on it?

Just unplug the coil pack harness and crank over the engine atleast 3 times for about 10sec. each time.
If you bought their version 1 oil line they will credit what you paid for it towards the new line.
(I only paid $30) Thanks FP !!!
It was very easy to install. {thumbup}

ill buy it off him

i just have the stock one right now. i was planning on buying just the stainless line but now its not on their website and i dont wanna spend 150 on the new one. i have no cash right now

it took this long for a oil line wow

That's what I thought as well, but when I didn't get any oil after several tries, I chalked it up to increased pressure while the motor was actually running. I wasn't very clear when I said "the oil won't pump", poor choice of terms on my part. When I first installed the turbo I primed it without actually running the engine, but that was without the new line ... so honestly I wasn't sure what the deal was. That's why I phrased it the way I did.

This is what I didn't do:
"pull the spark plugs to give less compression resistance, and turn your motor over in 10 second bursts until you have oil pressure on the gauge."

I remember that as being part of the Red's install instructions and I'm sure that's what made the difference. Good call! http://images.ibsrv.net/ibsrv/res/sr...e_thumbsup.gif

Still, running the engine for 2 to 3 seconds (with the turbo slightly primed with oil right before connecting the line to the turbo) saves all the time of pulling the plugs, etc... and then putting it back together.

(not yelling http://images.ibsrv.net/ibsrv/res/sr...ilies/cool.gif this is for others ) But ALSO Remember That You Don't Need To Do Either, Unless You Obsess Like I Do About Testing "NEW" Stuff Out Till You're Sure It Works Right ! I wanted to make sure that I had used the correct oil filter housing outlet, as I said, I was one of the 1st to try the install and was trying to be careful that I had done things correctly. I have encountered mistakes in instructions on more than one occasion. Because this was a new procedure and I was unfamiliar with this part of the car, I wanted to test it before just buttoning things up and driving it.

As far as the small torch issue, ultimately that's what I went back to. I only had a small butane torch, so when that didn't work after about a canister of fuel, I figured that the flame wasn't hot enough and tried a bigger torch.

But because of the room issue, I went back to the smaller torch and turned the flame way up, and kept reloading the pen torch - finally it cracked loose as everyone else describes.

My comments are for guys that might use a biger torch, or wondering why the thing isn't breaking loose as you might expect.

I used an 8mm socket head (like the instructions mention), the point is, A regular L style or T handle allen wrench that you might be tempted to use will likely not do the job.

I don't think trying it without heat is good advice, which is what I think you mean by "so don't use this example as a new set of install instructions"

My comments are for those who are going to do this themselves.
Hopefully they can anticipate some issues that might come up.

I wonder why the FP turbos require this oil line / pressure solution and the BBK / Blouch turbos don't ???

^^ FP explained that in its original post on this line. Their testing on some engines showed that feeding from the head did not provide the minimum pressure that Mitsu spec'd for the STOCK turbo, particularly when you add it use above the factory rev limit. Bigger turbos, like the RED (and the BBK, for that matter) have higher oil demands, particularly when people run them on built motors with looser tolerances, or use them for "spirited" driving. The factory provided an oiling solution that was engineered for the intended envelope of using those parts. Upgrade the demand, and the factory solution does not have the safety margin that was needed. So, FP designed a solution that fed off the filter housing, where the oil pressure was much higher and earlier in the "food chain".

I bet it would be a very useful upgrade for the Blouch turbos as well, but Blouch has not done (or if they have, has not published) the testing that resulted in FP making the recommendation.

I think what everyone is forgetting is that Mitsubishi made this recommendation. FP is only reacting to Mitsubishi's findings. Now why the other big names haven't replied well maybe it's because not too many people who purchased the other stock appearing turbos to 30-40psi. I think getting all upset about this is really a waste of energy. This is a way of keeping your turbo from blowing especially if your going to run 30psi everytime you turn the car on. I run on wastegate pressure on my DD. On the weekends I run 28psi the max I was tuned for.

Agreed...I think the FP line could be a nice addition for any stock like turbo...

i have a question for everyone. if i buy an fp red used off of someone will they warranty my turbo even if i have the updated 200 oil line or no?