You can kinda see what I have here, best pic I could find without looking to hard. :)

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._4275607_n.jpg

I drilled and tapped the fittings, there are baffels on the valve cover, keep the fittings above the baffles and I don't see why you will have a problem. I ran alot of boost and alot of rpm, and didn't overly fill the can.

Fathouse

WHy does the dip stick pop up???

Looks good Fathouse! I plan on putting mine in that area since moving the battery to the back left me plenty of room.

never though about that,..... hmmm. my 61mm dbb has around 9K HARD miles, but when I turn the car off it recently started making a noise as it spooled down,.. hmmm.

sorry to get off of topic but gives me and whoever else might have this problem an idea.... {thumbup}:mitsu:

i RUn 2 valves inline in addition to my Saikou dual catch cans. I run 34-35psi and have no blow by issues or dipstick pop out issues. Here's what my setup looks like.

Like others said, it may be related to your seals. It could also be your PCV is not strong enough for your high boost levels.

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...th_PCVVLVE.jpg

The dip stick pops out because either your pressurizing the crank case through the valve cover or your creating a lot of crank pressure and those valve cover ports are not large enough to release it properly.

The stock check valve sucks. I was able to use the power of my lunges to blow through mine.

Catch cans collect water from condensation, that is why most people see water in them or the milky looking mixture.

If your oil dipstick is poping out, vent to atmosphere (both valve cover ports). This will also ensure complete bone dry intake piping. I've been venting to atmosphere for the past 30k miles and I currently have 36k miles. Dip stick never flew off and my intercooler/pipes are all bone dry. And on top of it, i was running 24 psi on stock turbo and 31 psi on my HTA green.

If your already venting to atmosphere and the dip stick pops out, then your valve cover ports are not allowing you to efficiently relieve crank case pressure. Time to get creative and drill/tap new relief ports.


Any one ever see those Honda setups where people are running crazy amounts of valve cover ports going to a huge catch can with multiple breathers venting to atmosphere? Well I was told supposedly they are freeing 20-40 hp by relieving all that pressure. Makes me wonder, would our engines have similar gains?

well actually no it wouldn't
if after increasing the cam cover breather size hole openings and pipe etc to a can (with breather) and still have issues
the other trouble is the size of the hole/tube/shaft/pipe from the crank case to the cam cover is the issue for engines with large crank case pressures
other engines i've seen have 1.5" id vent
how you would implement an extra vent externally etc is not something i've looked at but just thought i'd throw the idea up

the job of the regulator is to keep the oil in the pan, so im sure its only assisting in more pressure down at the oil pan building up .. so if anything its only making my situation worse.

so what i understand is you can recirculate your catch can back into the pan only if you have a check valve between the tube thats dumping it back? id like to drain it back to the pan, whether it be by the dipstick or other means.. just curious.

I dont know how much oil this motor will spit out at 40psi, so i want to keep as much of it as i possibly can in the pan.

appreciate all the help/feedback/pictures everyone.

fathouse you have a setup similar to what i showed a picture of right? i spoke to JID he road courses his evo, he told me not to copy his setup because it fills up with oil to fast and requires to be drained back to the pan.. if i can drain back good oil to the pan i wouldn't mind doing that, i see no harm in it.... but can we drain this oil back to the pan safely thats being pushed into the catch can? i see honda guys doing it, but i dont wanna be draining back contaminated oil.

The problem with venting to atmosphere is that you'll always have a positive pressure in the engine before you get any flow. How much pressure of course is a function of how large the breathing ports are, Location, and where the blow-by is coming from. So its hard to say how much pressure builds up and any give area of the engine.
<br />
<br />
I'm a big proponent of creating a vacuum in the crankcase as is done from the factory. Problem of course is that with modded motors we get even more blow-by and end up with oil in our intake. The solution is a catch can inline with a vent tube similar to whats shown below, or better yet a coelecence filter separating the top and bottom to help get the aerated oil out of the air.
<br />
<br />
The mesh should help give the oil something to grab on to while the air separates. One thing to think about, the blow-by is air that has already mixed with fuel. If that is allowed to just sit in the engine without being positively removed then eventually fuel vapors will condense mixing with the oil. Actively vacuuming the air out via the intake manifold off boost and intake pipe on boost will help prevent washing out the oil.
<br />
<br />
While I'm just a lowly M.E. and not a chem engineer, I cant imagine gas has any business doing in a modded cars oil ;)


https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/me...atch-can-1.jpg

What I dont get is how is a closed can going to relieve pressure from the engine if its closed up and not released to atmosphere? seems like its going to do nothing.. i want the air to escape from the engine not recirculate and maintain the pressure.

too add my 0.02 im currently running a cusco oil catch can, i would make it a dual catch can setup run a t setup t off a vacuum line from the valve by the cam sensor and also the valve by the intake mani, run those 2 to a catch can and recirc back to the intake, should help alleviate that... if that dont completely fix it, are you tightening down your oil dipstick, becuz you shouldnt have crankcase pressure issues, unless possibly your pcv is malfunctioning.
sorry couldnt be more help then that
good luck
dastallion out

when i think about scavenging the crankcase with a non-drysump system, this is the only thing that comes to mind.

I have seen these used for decades on dragsters & such.....however i have not seen them in use on a turbo car.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/V...uation-Systems

Ok i see. so its getting shot back into the intake manifold rather then atmosphere and this in return doesn't lose any vacuum. makes sense now.

sounds like your slightly confusing 2 issues
the first issue is venting AIR pressure from the crankcase this has nothing to do with oil/oil pressure to a degree.
simply the AIR pressure built needs an escape. as said improving breathers at the cam cover helps lots as of course the cam cover is linked to the sump by 2 iirc AIR ways. the bottle neck at medium sump pressures is the cam cover breather holes / breather pipe diameters.
issue 2 is the pressures in the sump prevent or slow down oil returning to sump down the drain holes and this is where you can start to have oil forced thru turbo seals and into breather system
i think thats right anyway :cool:

If you run it back to the intake, it will suck oil. No catch can will ever get all of it.