seems like a complicated solution to something a hammer could fix.

:D

I wish it where that easy! :crap:

Sounds like you need a bigger hammer then :lol:

What are you going to hit with the hammer? A punch? Hitting metal on metal in rising fuel vapor sounds like a good time....

On my pump the support bracket was up a little higher so I was able to just adjust the hose.

I tried the double gasket route, but did not have those nifty barrel nut things. But when I first put the pump in I did not notice any issues. It was only once the tank got to be close to empty, and I could hear the sucking. So I did not have any fuel pressure issues, but the sucking noise let me to start looking. I adjusted the height of the pumps just to be safe.

I am on the same pumps as you.

Figured I would update this thread since I am adding to this setup. After experiencing a clacking noise in my MIVEC gear I decided to freshen up the motor, which had ~65K miles on my Curt Brown 10:1 2L and about 90K miles on my Curt Brown ported head with R2's. I had originally purchased the R2 cams wanting to do a stroker motor so I decided to have Curt build me a 2.15L with the Eagle 94mm crank and their extreme rods with Asymetric JE pistons.

Crank is 94mm Eagle 2037005900B7
JE Asymmetrical 297479
Eagle extreme connecting rods CRS5900MBXD

Motor (short block and head) arrived last week so parts are on their way and should arrive January 3rd to put it back together.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...d4b25ff57b.jpg

I then pulled the engine trans and pressure washed the engine compartment and subframe. I'll update as I make progress.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...162fa8c28b.jpg

I think I found the source of what I thought was my MIVEC gear making a clacking noise. When I pulled the front plastic cover off the 2L I found the entire front of the oil pump housing was covered in thick black grease. Upon further inspection the timing belt tensioner had taken a dump likely causing the time belt to slap against something. It was late last night when I took this apart so I haven't tried to determine what the belt was hitting. Now just debating whether to use or return the $375 new MIVEC gear I purchased. The pics below are after I spent 20 minutes trying to wipe it clean.


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...d8e84521ae.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...566bebcec6.jpg

Wow, I've never seen that happen. How many miles were on it? What were you revving that engine to?

Cut that mivec gear a few degrees extra 😁. Let me know if you can make it to 50° adv lol.

Nice to see an update. Sounds like you are lucky that the timing belt didn't skip some teeth. Will you be putting it on the dyno after its all back together?

Not sure if there is any benefit in spool past 40-42deg

Lucky indeed and yes, will generate DynoJet numbers. Still have access to the same dyno with my historic graphs.

~70K miles & ~9K

I wonder if it was a fluke, or if those of us running our cars hard should look into replacing that more often.

Gen 1 or Gen 2 GTX3582R?
And what are your thoughts of the 1.06 A/R ATP TS T4 turbine housing vs the 1.01 A/R V-band turbine housing in terms of bottom-end spool response, transient response and top end power?

Gen 1

I posted all the data comparing the two, but difficult to answer your question. Ran the vband housing on a long tube runner and the T4 TS on a short tube runner so obviously the short tube runner will provide better spool. The 1.01 a/r v-band TS is equivalent to a 1.01 a/r OS in terms of cross sectional flow area so it is significantly larger than a 1.06 a/r TS that is probably equivalent to a 0.75 a/r OS in terms of cross sectional flow area.