Standard 12pt deep socket works fine with the ARPs in my experience.

Bags and containers work but I've found that if I'm new to an area of the car and it has different length fasteners in the same mating surface it's not the best option. I will take a piece of cardboard and draw a rough outline of the mating surface. I will then poke holes through it where the bolts go and put the correct fastener in the hole. It takes the guesswork out of it and actually stores pretty easily.

Yep. That's what I was thinking.

Any 12mm 12 point socket will work on the factory head bolts.

For torqueing ARP head studs I have a 1/2" drive 1/2" 12 point shallow socket (the ARP 12pt nut is 1/2" 12 point sized). Its deeper than a 3/8" drive socket so it clears the stud, but still short so it doesn't flex as much. Use it with a 3" extension on a 1/2" drive torque wrench to make torqueing the studs easier. And again, less twist/flex than using smaller diameter 3/8" drive stuff.

ARP main studs use a 12mm 12pt nut. So I have the same setup as I do for the head studs, just with the appropriate socket.

Another method to keep your bolts organized is to just keep them inserted in or on/in the parts you took off. I would sometimes get a costco picnic table, make sure no kids or pets are around, cover with disposable table cloth and set it to one side of the garage to stack parts on top of chronologically. Works like a charm as long as nobody knocks over the damn table....

That's how I do it one one of my shelves. Between that and a Sharpie, I keep things in order well enough I can leave it for months at a time.

Some parts are held on with more than one length of bolt. Keep an eye out for that and take note!.

Guys I am stuck getting the crank case bolt out, I've bolted a piece of angle iron to the flywheel bolt holes at the other end to stop the crank turning and I am heaving on a breaker to a point where I am starting to bend my engine stand with the weight, any suggestions?


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...6f2e439e82.jpg

Impact. If you don't have access to one or don't have air I recommend buying one of the Milwaukee M18 High Torques. More power than my snapon air. If you only need it once you can get it from home Depot and return it afterwards .

see photo heavy duty kinchrome wouldn't do it

Hm, well that's gnarly, I've done quite a few of these now and never had an issue getting the crank pulley bolt off. What PSI air are you running? That bolt is torqued to like 150 ftlbs if I remember correctly, you'll need quite a bit of power to get it off, I don't think you can do it without air(and alot of it).

I did a quick search to make sure I wasn't missing something(it's been a while since I've pulled a 4G apart) and I found this which may be insightful:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/la...-pulley-2.html

I'm just under 90 psi which should put out a fair wack, the gun is rated at 1400 lbs but obviously not enough or need more air.

It must be tighter then 130 lb as I'm virtually sitting on the bar

I could load the block and take it to my local mechanic for a shot

Those ratings are usually very optimistic and taken at high pressure. Are you able to turn up the air to like 120 or 150 PSI? If not, you may just want to take it to a shop and have them gun it off.
With that said, I've broken these loose with very beefy electric impacts, although it'll vary a bit engine from engine.