Not sure if that oil leak is normal or not. A lot of oil gets tossed around, even at idle. Are you running a BB turbo? Low compression? Low leak down numbers? Otherwise, you may just need a new cap. Get yourself a good serial-to-USB cable (not all are compatible, so get the right one) and you should be able to datalog that wideband (assuming the sensor is still good, of course).
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Originally Posted by kaj
(Post 11868638)
Not sure if that oil leak is normal or not. A lot of oil gets tossed around, even at idle. Are you running a BB turbo? Low compression? Low leak down numbers? Otherwise, you may just need a new cap. Get yourself a good serial-to-USB cable (not all are compatible, so get the right one) and you should be able to datalog that wideband (assuming the sensor is still good, of course).
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Took apart the interior last night to follow that wire. You were on the right path, it goes up to my AFR gauge. Found one of the bolts for the drivers seat was cross threaded and half way in... spooky. I'm looking for a Tactrix cable now, seems like I need the 1.3, but this is the only one I can find is ~$130..??!? Is this basically my only option? :crap:
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You used to be able to find used 1.3s for about $100ish... but they are getting few and far between, now that the platform isn't as popular as it once was (and being sold back and forth, along with their parts). $130 is waaaay worth it.
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Originally Posted by kaj
(Post 11868898)
You used to be able to find used 1.3s for about $100ish... but they are getting few and far between, now that the platform isn't as popular as it once was (and being sold back and forth, along with their parts). $130 is waaaay worth it.
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It is really expensive for the parts/construction, but you're paying for the convenience and how useful it is. If you can find the parts, you could always make your own. :confused:
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Originally Posted by kaj
(Post 11868905)
It is really expensive for the parts/construction, but you're paying for the convenience and how useful it is. If you can find the parts, you could always make your own. :confused:
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Quick update - Found the source of the rough idle. 2 of 4 coil packs had come loose... Doh! Snugged them up and the idle is smooth, no longer jumpy/breaking up. Driveability and throttle response greatly increased. Still seeing a lean AFR on cold start.. Waiting for Tactrix Cable in the mail, will update more then.
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Couldn't get ECUFlash to recognize my ECU with the Tactrix Cable. I only spent a couple hours on it, but it won't recognize my RomID. From what I've read, I need to update my rommetadata folder with meta data from the Tephra Mod V7 thread, but I can't figure out how to get into my rommetadata folder.. Been busy with my project car trying to get that up and running for racing season. Besides the fact that I haven't been able to datalog, I believe that based on the symptoms I have now, that my IACV is going out. Lean AFR's on cold start, when having lean AFR's and I try to go in 1st it will die/bog out, when the car is at full operational temp it runs great. As soon as the temp passes the first tick on the gauge, AFR's steady out to normal ~14.7-~15.2. However I'm not getting the common "dies at stop lights" symptom... I got in contact with the previous owner to see if he knew what was going on - he said that when it was dyno'd they had to replace the IACV with a used unit. Is an OEM IACV really worth ~$300-~$400?!? or are some people having luck with the knock off IACV's?
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I've always taken IACVs from random Mitsubishis in the wrecking yards. I haven't heard many good thing about aftermarket IACVs.
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All right I'm back to trying to seriously diagnose this issue. I want to try a few other things before messing with my IACV, because I'm not fully convinced that's the issue yet besides the fact that I only have problems at idle. The screws are stripped on the IACV and I dont want to mess with it right before my event this coming weekend. Light mods, mostly bolt ons. It has mild cams, EGR delete, balance shaft delete and is converted from MAF to Speed Density. Stock block only like ~320HP, rebuilt engine has less than ~10k miles. Problem began out of the blue - rough idle (sounds like misfire) with 18+ AFR's until warmed up, then rough idle goes away and AFR is back to normal like ~14.7. Sometimes on cold startup it will fire up and go to 1500rpms then die or when it's still running lean and i try to take off in 1st gear it will die (at the very least noticeably less power and seems to bog - only when AFR's are lean). No CELs, is this due to the fact that I have a tune, or will it still throw a CEL if it has a tune on it? I don't think it has anything to do with the tune, was recently tuned less than a year ago.
Here's what I've tried -Boost leak test - fixed all leaks, TB shafts are ok, injector O rings didnt seem to leak -Tightened Coil Packs -Checked sensors What I'm going to try -Check spark plugs -Clean PCV -Reset ECU - unplug battery for 1 hour -Try to get my datalogging working, and go from there Quick question - if I reset my ecu, will that erase the tune I have? just worried about messing up my tune somehow.. |
DCing the battery will not affect your tune. It's a good way to start with a clean slate, then see what happens.
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I had issues with breaking up during boost to the point that the car shut off, turns out I had a bad fuel pump. That caused my AFR to lean out and broke 2 of the 4 spark plugs, and I was also having all sorts of issues with idle and even cruising at a normal speed.
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Originally Posted by c_sautter
(Post 11876297)
I had issues with breaking up during boost to the point that the car shut off, turns out I had a bad fuel pump. That caused my AFR to lean out and broke 2 of the 4 spark plugs, and I was also having all sorts of issues with idle and even cruising at a normal speed.
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in my 8 sometimes the car leans or richens a bit when i let it idle, was told it does that to adjust fuel trims..
and i've seen the same in multiple evos as well. you can also have a leak on the manifold gaskets, how much boost is it holding when u do the boost leak test? |
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