Leave my hot wife alone you fat bastard. after all she did I decided to keep her {thumbup}


NOW I AM INCHARGE OF MONEY AND BANK ACCOUNTS


:beer:

ahh another day of this crap...today went the best outta any other day. Basically meaning nothing went wrong...after i told him to retorque everything down to spec, we dropped the engine into the bay along wit the tranny and TC. 3 of the mounts are completed except for the front one. The throttle cable, AC, power steering, and some other sensors n stuff are done. Both the axles are in, the brakes are on ready for wheels. Some of the IC piping is on... tomorrow is the last day and the outcome of this mess which has seem to come into line now thx to help from some guys on here and a fellow mechanic friend of mine around here who works for a Toyota sports tuning shop (good stuff at the shop. 2jz gsV300, TRD supra pushin nearly 800). Anyways...tomorrow we only need a lil bit of work... (Radiator needs to be put on, some more senors, rest of the soft IC/hard piping, intake/bov, bolt up down pipe, plastic undertray, driveshaft, fill tranny/TC, and change rear diff oil, put on the wheels, start the car and take it for a drive PRAYING TO GOD that it runs as it should...then come back, give it a thorough wash and take it out for a night breakin that damn clutch in properly.

btw: is there any things i should know before i diagnose the condition of the car? ie: weird noises i should be hearing cuz i have a new clutch setup, anything of that sort would help. thx!

Before you seal the deal make sure it goes into gear. I did my clutch only to find out the pressure plate was faulty and when I turned the car on it toated a brand new pressure plate and the newly resurfaced flywheel which was installed correctly. Make sure linkage is on correctly. If anyone pushed the clutch peddle in while slave was off tranny, you will have to bleed the clutch.

Shane

so make sure it pops into gear BEFORE i turn the car on? ie: run it thru every gear and if it goes in smooth, its all good to go and start it up?

currently only fluids i have are Redline MT90 (3qt), Redline 75/90 (2qts) for the tranny/tc/rear diff. Any other fluids i'll need?

^^ Exactly!! The mitsubishi wrc mechanics just take bout 10 mins...all they need is just to get under the car!! The engine does'nt need to be removed!!

i know the engine doesnt need to be removed to change fluids.. that'd really suck if it did

Well i have found that BG or Penzoil Syncromesh is best in the tranny and Redline best in the TC and Dif. I have heard some bad storys about using the Redline in the tranny but hey some people like it so take that the way you want. For the TC and Dif make sure you use the HEAVY Redline.

Ya before you start the car make sure it goes into all the gears and depending how he disconnected the clutch cylinder you might not need to bleed the clutch. But anyway push in the clutch a couple times and make sure it feels alright. Im guessing you installed a new TOB so im hoping he installed that the right way becouse if not you will not be a happy person!

Double check all your connections ocnce agian and make sure the to turn the key over and let the fuel pump pressurize the line and make sure there are no leaks in the fuel line connections.

Once done give it a start and you should be good to go. OH and basically you have around a 500 mile break in period so get the car to a welder and have them fix that piece if you decide to. No hard clutch drops and no slipping the clutch. I didnt even run throught the gears hard afer i installed mine. Anyway GOOD LUCK!

Chris

After running Redline in my tranny for about a year, I'd say Redline 'finally' likes to be 'nice' with syncros once it warms up. A warmup on a summer day is about 10 min. A warmup on a winter day, is about 30 to 45min. Until that point, I really try to baby the tranny. Is it better than stock? Slightly ... but ... I think I'm going to try BG or Pennz. in the near future.

Cheers,

jcnel.

how do i know if i need to bleed the clutch? will the clutch feel diff or something? ... ya i installed the TOB myself and made sure it was right. Not sure if i got the HEAVY redline, does it matter if its the regular redline 75w90?

o man.. not another "what fluid should i use" thread. this guy has plenty else to worry about without us barking our opinions on what fluid he should use. He's got enough to worry about.

Just put the stock fluid in there, and hope you don't have real problems from the clutchjob.

You can do your research on the board later to find out what fluids are best. There are a number of threads on that topic...

ive ready countlessly on what fluids are for the evo. But its many diff opinions...some people love redline, some say its barely better than stock, some say the 75w90 have killed the TC, some say they love it in the TC, its just all diff words flying around

seriously.. you can change fluids.. in both difs, and the tranny in less than an hour. Don't be too worried about what you put in there now. And you're right.. most of it is opinions.

Just get that baby running again, and put an end to this thread. It's the scariest thing i've ever read.

ooh i am not gonna take an hour changling fluids i know that. I've read the how to and what not on how to get it done correct and in a good amount of time. Dont wanna get a oil pump so just gonna run a hose and a funnel. I understand tranny is lil under 3qts and tc and rear diff is like .58qts. anyways, yea i prefer just running the heavy gear oils in the tc/rear diff

believe me, thats all i want right now....have the car running. So far looks A-OK! but never know...so will see what happens and pray the outcome wasnt as bad as the beginning. :brings a priest to bless the Evo before i start her up:

A pump is just a few bucks from your local autoparts store. I'm not sure how you're going to get fluid into your transfer case through a hose and funnel. Think about how much fluid you're going to waste by trying the funnel and hose method and ask yourself if the few bucks you're saving by not getting a pump is worth it.

YOu will know if the clutch needs to be bled if you press it and it goes to the floor with hardly any peddle feel at all. Buy a pump makes fluid changes way easier.

Shane

wow. 10 bucks says you have extra bolts lying around when your done.

<Note to self> If I see a silver EVO for sale from Merced, run...

or if you see one on Ebay

f.u.c.k him by the trany dude

wow... sounds like what i was possibly about to go through as well... i have a friend who is a pretty good mechanic in my eyes, but as i read this horror story i could totally picture the exact same thing happening to me! looks like i will be saving up ~500 for the install now cuz i think im too scared to attempt this on our own...

ah.. and wrc cars are nothing like the street cars other than similar exterior.. rally cars are made to be serviced quick.

You know you have to get the clutch plate seated down on the flywheel completely before torquing it down, right? Otherwise, that 13 ft-lbs won't even get the clutch fingers compressed.

i'll be babying my clutch from now on and saving up the $500 for when i need to take in to a PROFESSIONAL.

ok for all those who were in doubt of it...its done and it runs fine. Only problem i have is the reverse light wont come on when in R...the temp is all the way down in C i guess cuz the coolant hasnt flowed throughout the engine yet? had to bleed the clutch...i cant feel the pull that well, might be loose throttle cable, i think tires are a lil deflated from sittin around and umm...needs a wash desperately inside n out. No SES light so thats always a great thing. Thanks to the few of you that helped out!

good to hear bro!

thx!

Check the wire that runs to the reverse light switch. Also check the wire that runs to the coolant temperature sensor. They're probably not connected. Good to hear you got that thing running!

dude i'm sorry that happened... i was planning on doing the clutch myself... now i have 2nd thoughts

where are the reverse lamp wires and the coolant temp wires??

i, once again thank EvoM members for helping me out in my time of need. IF it wasnt for this site, i'm more than sure this car wouldnt be running right now. If my Throttle cable isnt the cause of me not being able to feel the "pull" around 3500rpm, what else would it be? Cuz when i take off i kinda give it a lil punch to about 3000rpm to see if it pulls hard like before, but it doesnt. No G forces felt. What could be the cause besides maybe a loose throttle cable? BTW, the clutch feels WAY diff, i actually stalled! I let off the clutch about 1.5 inches and boom shut off i was like whoa! Before, wit my old clutch that i was used to, i could let off about 4 inches and then start givin it some gas. Feels different but great. Just wanna get to the problem of why im not feeling the pull i should in a evo wit a brand new clutch.

Reverse light switch is circled in red:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/at...id=48604&stc=1

#9 is the water temp switch:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/at...id=48603&stc=1

this helps... where does each of the plugs start from? liek the reverse light switch, i know where it goes, but where does the line start? same with the temp, thx for the pics btw it helps a lot

There should be a wire that runs to that area. Just look around and you should be able to find it and plug it in. The same applies for both switches.

anyone have any suggestions for the power question. It might be throttle cable havent cheked, but wanna know before i go out there if there are any other solutions. It grabs hard, when i let off it moves but not as well as it should. I just cant feel the G forces. Its not stalling or moving slow. it gets up in traffic and what not, i just dont feel the hard pull like a evo should feel like

Are the revs shooting up when boost hits?

Perhaps you have a boost leak. You try tightening down all the hose clamps?

do you even have boost? do you have a gauge..
if it's boosting at first, then tailing off quickly.. sounds like you may have a leak..

no no misunderstanding....i have a boost gauge, boost rises, doesnt taper down (havent went beyond 4k). Revs go up as normal. i just cant feel the G forces like i usually do. like that pull u get soon as the clutch is up and the gas is down u feel the evo taking off like a beast and feel the in-lift i just dont feel that. no leaks, my boost gauge, idle everything is fine. Any other suggestions?

How do you know you don't have a leak? Have you pressure tested your intake after putting everything back together?

The only other thing I can think of is that your clutch isn't fully disengaging. Do you have any play at the top of your clutch pedal? Meaning, can you step on your clutch pedal slightly before you feel it start to disengage? You're supposed to have about 1/2" of play before clutch disengagement starts.

yeah....make sure your clutch has play first 1/2 to 1inch. If it doesn't it may not be fully disengaging . If it does full disenagage then hopefully it isn't spinning the clutch when you normally feel pull. Do it once for a few seconds then stop fast jump out and open the hood and sniff around for any weird smells

Well I kinda think I kno wha ur sayin n ithink dats it....when I let off clutcj about 1inch, it shut off I was surprised cuz before I had about 2.5-3in of play before it started to want to shut off. Is that it? I was just assuming it was cuz its aftermarket clutch. Any1 wit the same act setup could prob help. I haven't checked if it smells prob the best way to find out is pull over n smell the tranny area. So should I bleed it more or what?

try to bleed it more....then make sure the let out and play are correct in the pedal ....then go into 3rd gear full disengaged and run it hard through that gear and then stop asap and smell....that should tell you if its slipping....i have a act and never had to adjust or bleed anything. But its a little different anyway.
Dave

Dude, bite the bullet and take your car somewhere that knows the Evo to have them look it over before you have something really screw up. You have done well to get to where you are now with all things considered, but do yourself and your Evo a huge favor and just take it somewhere to have it thouroughly looked over. It might cost you a little bit now, but if something is not right it will save you some big time $$$$ and headaches later......

hahah wtf you pulled the whole engine for a tranny job?

ya, and for his engine work he is going to pull his seats out :D



J/k

Hate to say it, should have sprung for the $600 install at Gruppe-S which they quoted you.
See link:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=106738

ok i took it for a drive heres the issues: Steering wheel doesnt sit striaght, it leans to the left at all times, so in order to go straight steering wheel is tilted to the left a bit. I thought he had torqued the wheels down incorrectly so i fixed that problem and that isnt the issue, maybe the struts arent put on straight? also, the car doesnt hit full boost at around 3500rpm, it hits lil below 1.0bar on my boost gauge. Also, i didnt change rear differential yet, i hear a loud metalish howling noise towards the rear is it cuz its not well lubricated? Also, the water temp plug is plugged in and the gauge still isnt responding.

alignment maybe? You did practically tear the whole car apart.

Maybe your piping or the tubing is leaking. loud metal howling noise, isn't that your transfer case going bad?

which pipes do u suggest i check? I checked the IC piping leading to the Throttle body, from the IC, the intake is on snug to the turbo, BOV is doing fine, i tightened the clamps for the IC piping leading to the turbo, where else?

To check for boost leaks, check all joints between the turbo and your throttle body. There's a gasket between the turbo and turbo outlet elbow. Then there's the hose that connects the turbo outlet elbow to the lower ic pipe and from the lower ic pipe to the intercooler inlet. Check every joint on the upper ic pipe side. Perhaps the BOV has been reinstalled backwards.

As for why your car is now pulling to one side.. There are two bolts that mount the strut to the hub. The upper of the two is an eccentric bolt. Most likely, he put one on backwards and now your camber and toe are off. There's an arrow on the bolt head. Mine were both pointed inwards. Just make sure both sides are pointed either inwards or both outwards.

Do you have a shop manual? I really suggest you get one as the diagrams help tremendously.

No hha the bov is installed correct.... Yea u solved my prob...the bolts were put on in the opposite direction damn this mechanic!!...and ill have to take off the horrid undertray again and I guess the pipe connected to the turbo is loose. Wouldn't the idle be ****ty if the clamps were loose?

One problem down, a few more to go! I'd check all the wires leading up to your sensors. Perhaps they got damaged during the work.

The more things you take apart, the more things you have to troubleshoot once it's all back together. At least you've been forced to learn a lot about your car through this whole ordeal. This knowledge will definitely help you in the future when you mod your car more.

Im in shock just looking at those pics. When I did my clutch I didnt even have to take the Down Pipe loose, let alone remove the entire engine. Hind sites 20/20 but you shoulda made your mechanic follow Joes instructions exactly.
I feel really bad for you guys. You definitly need a new tranny with that mount broken off. One launch and its done. No question about it.

I never really saw how they changed the clutch on my Evo.. But I don't think they pulled out the engine in anyway..

Oh my god, I just noticed this post. I feel for you man :crap: :crap: . This is why I always recommend anyone to pay up and get a real PRO to do the job. IT took you guys over 30 hours :lol: :lol: . My record of replacing a stock Evo clutch is 2 hours and 15 minutes. but thats besides the point. Let this be a lesson to all on how not to try and save yourself some bucks. Get the job done right, no damage, happy customer. You should've shipped your Evo over to me, probably cheaper that all you headaches {thumbup}

Gil-superz

In my experience, boost leaks are rarely as easy as going in and tightening down the hose clamps. I suggest building a simple boost leak tester, connect it to the turbo inlet, pump air into the system and listen for leaks.

All you need to do to fix boost leaks is to go about it in a order method. In other words you need to follow the flow of air and recheck everything in its path. Stock hose clamps are no good and will expand when overtightened. Everyone should invest in t-bolt style clamps for the entire air path. If you still are having problems you should invest in taking the car to a quality technician, he should be able to fix all of your problems.

Gil-superz

Sometimes other things can leak though... TB seals, BISS, injectors, etc...

I hope you didn't pay that mechanic any money. He should be paying you money for your suffering.

if you have air in the clutch line that you need to bleed, it would be difficult to shift the. it seems you can shift okay. it means that your clutch is adjusted way too high, meaning, when you press the clutch pedal it pulls the pedal way too far from the flywheel and since your clutch is new, you may or may not have any slipping yet. adjustment is under the dash, look where the rod pushes the master cylinder and shorten the rod by adjusting the screw. if you adjust too much you might not be able to shift or it will be difficult because the clutch is not released from the flywheel. so, the goal is to adjust the screw to shorten the rod that pushes the master cylinder, do it little by little until you get the feel that clutch is grabbing okay, if it is the other way around, it means you are making it worse and turn the nut the opposite way. if you use the search function there is a visual picture from the manual. good luck!

do u think thats the cause of my power decrease?? I mean the clutch being like that is fine, i dont mind it being that way unless its slowing down my car. I just gotta figure out why my car doesnt hit full boost it hits shy of 1.0bar (14.7psi) and i know the evo is boostin 19psi so i def know something is wrong, i was taking the car up at WOT, and usually at around 3-3.5k rpm it pulls hard and just rises drastically, but the rpms climbed slow. I tightened the sh*t out of those IC hose clamps. maybe i tightened it too hard? could that be the prob? Also, the temp gauge still doesnt come on and i plugged the sensor in, and also the reverse light doesnt come on and i plugged the sensor ontop of the tranny, what else could it be? Main concern is: the boost issue. THx for the help!

sucks

oh my god dude. it runs so sell it, and get your friend to give you the diff. you lost

Amen Brotha! At least one or two vendors on these forums would dispute the worth of t-bolt clamps but once you tighten those suckers down you're not going to have a leak.

Man, I haven't seen a mess that big since I rebuilt my first (and last) Porsche flat six! And I didn't even break or screw up anything...

If I were you I would run that car over a bridge then collect insurance.

why? So i dont have scratch marks on my tranny? and a broken ear piece that doesnt concern me too much? and if it does i can get it welded. It is a big mess but u guys act as if he poured acid into the tranny and threw soil into the engine. The car's done, it runs right? I am not a perfectionist, if the tranny has scratches n what not, im not gonna launch the car off a bridge. The boost issue, i talked to 2k4evoviii and he found out what was wrong with it within 2 seconds...the copper pellets int he vacuum lines running from the turbo prob fell out cuz the mechanic d/c the lines. I'm happy with my evo and just cuz a mechanic decided to install the clutch THE LONG WAY doesnt make me wanna throw my car off a cliff. Things can be fixed. Not much fixing to do so im satisified. And i went ahead and paid him his 300 dollars....haha jk didnt pay him.

Hes not a family friend anymore. Kick him out and make him pay for everything he damaged.

omfg~~!~~!~ Ive never seen anyone take the entire motor out of the vehicle for a clutch job.. geezus

did you ever get your car to run?

with crappy long install like this, that clutch better last you forever! and you better run 11's!

lol

hell look at him,if thats the guy in the pic that said he can do it.if he comes near your car,RUN A WAY!!!

Those bastard Evo's are a prick to work on starting from the Evo 7 onwards unfortunately has to have its engine dropped due to its ACD diff housing getting in the way of the cross member.Trying to pry the bearing off can still be done from the top but to refit the entire assembly is a prick to do....
I'm avoiding a clutch change on my JDM 8 with the 6 speed for this reason.... Mechanics here in Malaysia love to scratch and grease the rest of the parts on the engine bay...Hate that!!

:dunno: Turbotrix can do an install in 3hrs max. Thanks for the laugh. Next time have the professionals do it

Speechless

After reading this post seeing those pics IM AFRAID TO HAVE MY CLUTCH REPLACED. :crap:

Dammm! that's crazy!

that guy is lucky that he wasnt working on my evo.:shoot:

good luck with the car.:crap:

Thanks for all the laughs. That clutch job looked like something you'd see where I'm from. If you drive downtown past Autozone on a weekend you can see some coon-asses taking the engine out in the parking lot. LOL. Using a tree and a cumber-long to take and engine out. I am glad you got your car back together, but if I'm you I'm spray painting that crack, and paying someone to detail the hell out of the car so I can trade it in on an MR. :lol: