@unkn0wn. cool. you might want to cover that large positive terminal :). also there's several areas on the transmission/body to use as a ground post. the connections doesn't have to be on the battery post. you can also use a battery switch so you can tuck away the positive connections. if you only have one wire to the battery post then it would be more convenient and cleaner looking

I have the ABS terminal cover for it but it no longer fits due to that top fuel pump power wire. A little time behind with the dremel & we should be good!

maybe use a remote fuse terminal? you can stack all those connections like this and still end up with the OE fuse and cover on top. just an idea.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...6f34b153df.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...e64ebf5f71.jpg
i can switch to battery under the seat (only)...
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...fb4f60cff6.jpg
battery setup in the engine bay (only) or i can use both. I normally switch one off as backup

my extra battery is now for fast charging phones/camera and power a tire inflator at the paddock :)

but most importantly you need to cover up the + connection(s). I feel i'm going to accidentally put a tool tray on top of that :)

Spent the better part of the weekend just trying to get one of my wheels off. Yes, just trying to get the damn. wheel. off. the. car. Two studs stripped and began spinning in the hub. After removing the whole freaking hub with the rotor and caliper still attached I was able to weld the studs to the hub and break the studs off. Thankfully, @Fsae_Alum came to the rescue with some spare parts.

Lesson learned: If your lug nuts seem in the least bit worn or questionable chuck them in the trash immediately and get new ones.

now imagine you had ARP studs :) thats what I had to deal with. no more aluminum lugnut sockets for me!
I tried several drill bits and sockets. I even drilled my bicep when the bit broke. I eventually just destroyed the wheel (SBC RPF1)

Oh man if the lug nut rounded off that would have just added to the fun. I worked as a technician through college and removed hundreds, maybe 1000's of wheels and I've never experienced or seen such a catasphrophuck of a situation like I did with this car. About a month ago one of the top nuts on my 3 month old Ohlins coilovers also stripped so maybe this car is just cursed lol

Hey hey hey cursed is my thing lol. Sucks to hear about your Ohlins I still haven't put mine together yet and I hate to hear that.

yeah the aluminum lugnut socket was expanding and semi rounding off the lugnuts, then completely rounded them off when loosening the lugnuts.
a nut breaker would have been your new bestfriend. it helped me out with some rusty shocks on my HomeDepot hauler van. kept one in every toolbox since.

The nut is fairly small, maybe a M12? And the thread is super fine, so just be careful. The hardware may also be stainless which is notorious for galling. I'm not sure what went wrong with mine as I hand-tightened everything down easily (maybe why it came loose in the first place?) a little anti-seize would probably have helped..

I was thinking about getting something like that, but when I found out the studs were spinning easily at ~1000rpm's on my impact I knew the whole mf'er had to come out for the MIG welder. Thankfully, everything is accessible and it was a pretty easy job. The wheel bearing design also allowed for a good amount of clearance to the back of the threads for the welder to get some good beads on it. It seemed like the Mitsubishi engineers may have planned for this lol

I have noticed that when you wash the car and you let it sit. Water collects on the wheel studs. This builds rust and corrosion on the metals. I sometimes use a wire brush to clear the stud of rust or drive the car after washing so that the water dries out.

worse if you use a caked brake dust dissolver like sonax. maybe a leaf blower would help :)

@unkn0wn. where did you buy that JDM high output alternator from and hos much did it cost? Only other reputable high output alternator that I have seen for our car is the Lamspeed one that is around $500.

Looks pretty clean! I'm unable to use the stock fusible link because the wire gauge for everything is so large. I replaced that with the Blue Sea terminal fuse block to accommodate the larger gauge wires.

I got some of the wires rerouted & added the positive cover to clean it up a bit. I'll post some more pics when I get home.

I ordered this one from rhdjapan & it was about $830 shipped.

https://www.rhdjapan.com/advance-hig...ct9a-ct9w.html

Ordered on the 15th & delivered to my door on the 19th in LA. Overall 10/10 experiance & I'd order from them again.

+1 for RHDJapan, have ordered multiple Ralliart parts for my X through them.

Thanks. I'm a bit confused with the fat wires/hi amp alt...then small battery :) do you have big plans? if not, 6ga can go up to 10ft atleast for normal car stuff