At Hyundai we have a recall on some salt belt state vehicles for rust.
We spray affected areas with a cavity wax and then we spray undercoating. I can get you the brand if your interested. Must be LEGIT if dealers use it |
Originally Posted by supak1111
(Post 11679633)
It too expensive, $200 a quart of the stuff, you know how much undercoat or bed lining you can buy for $200? They don't even sell it for customers only commercial use, but you can find it on ebay/amazon. Also its not durable, like at all. Any place a rock hits it it will come right off. If you do some research on these water nano coatings (there are a lot) they are so bad that they come off by them selfs in 6 months. This stuff is good for some stuff tho, say a funnel you always use to pore your oil though, if it was coated you would never have to clean the funnel. Or the oil tray used for changing you oil... Spray your shoes...
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VALU Gard
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You gotta search but there's rust inhibiting semi-drying oils around. They work on rust, they work on dirt, they work on clean metal and are good for about one or two winters. I used to buy this stuff in a five gallon container and spray down my vehicles. It works but is messy. The trouble is it takes a little effort to apply and most people are short on effort. In Canada this is an industry.
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I just got a recall for my front sub-frame. I should drop that off this weekend..
If I can get a new one, that would make cleaning and protecting the bottom of the car even sweeter. |
Being part of this thread is making me want to go do undercoating to my Evo now lol. I'm by Chicago, we get some **** weather here and they use too much salt on the roads which is really the issue around here.
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For sure. A few years back They started using brine on the major roads in Vermont. Can you imagine that! it is just eating cars...
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In my opinion... Oil based rustproofing that you apply annually is the best way to go. Wax based is okay too, but you have to check for cracks and chips yearly. Rubberized undercoating/rocker guard doesn't belong on a car unless it's brand new. I always cringe when people spray that stuff on an old car. It traps in moisture and ends up flaking off with the rust behind it. Unless it's a new, clean surface I would not apply it.
For those of you with older cars I would strongly suggest oil based rust proofing. I've used a few different kinds with success, my favorite being the ProForm one I buy by the pale and apply it with a rustproofing gun. Oil based sticks well, drives out moisture, and creeps into seams and joints. It's easy to spray in the rockers through access holes, in control arm drainage holes, framerail holes, drains in the bottom of the doors, etc and covers everything with a coat of oil. Just because you spray the underside of the car with a can of gravel guard, that doesn't mean salty slush and brine isn't gonna make its way in through the holes I mentioned and rust out the metal which has nothing on it. Brand new car I would get wax based/rubberized coated and then maintained early, or even oil coated yearly after that. Old car, soak it in oil based rustproofing yearly. I live in Ontario where they use salt like it's going out of style. Many times the overuse of salt at lights and stop signs acts like gravel and makes you slide more than if there was nothing there.... I've had good luck with oil based up here, perhaps something worth looking into. It's messy but it works well. |
Ive been in the OEM vehicle manufacturing industry for many years. Today we are using a petroleum, wax based, self healing undercoat. Very robust & skins over so it can even be painted over. Does not get too soft in hot weather
All the road chemicals being used (salts & the chlorides) devastates aluminum, steel & electrical systems |
Originally Posted by six40
(Post 11681883)
In my opinion... Oil based rustproofing that you apply annually is the best way to go. Wax based is okay too, but you have to check for cracks and chips yearly. Rubberized undercoating/rocker guard doesn't belong on a car unless it's brand new. I always cringe when people spray that stuff on an old car. It traps in moisture and ends up flaking off with the rust behind it. Unless it's a new, clean surface I would not apply it.
For those of you with older cars I would strongly suggest oil based rust proofing. I've used a few different kinds with success, my favorite being the ProForm one I buy by the pale and apply it with a rustproofing gun. Oil based sticks well, drives out moisture, and creeps into seams and joints. It's easy to spray in the rockers through access holes, in control arm drainage holes, framerail holes, drains in the bottom of the doors, etc and covers everything with a coat of oil. Just because you spray the underside of the car with a can of gravel guard, that doesn't mean salty slush and brine isn't gonna make its way in through the holes I mentioned and rust out the metal which has nothing on it. Brand new car I would get wax based/rubberized coated and then maintained early, or even oil coated yearly after that. Old car, soak it in oil based rustproofing yearly. I live in Ontario where they use salt like it's going out of style. Many times the overuse of salt at lights and stop signs acts like gravel and makes you slide more than if there was nothing there.... I've had good luck with oil based up here, perhaps something worth looking into. It's messy but it works well. |
Is there an aftermarket application for this now?
Originally Posted by MinusPrevious
(Post 11682018)
Ive been in the OEM vehicle manufacturing industry for many years. Today we are using a petroleum, wax based, self healing undercoat. Very robust & skins over so it can even be painted over. Does not get too soft in hot weather
All the road chemicals being used (salts & the chlorides) devastates aluminum, steel & electrical systems |
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