Originally Posted by Spec'd
Nice writeup ... Why not pull the head and install some ARP headstuds
at the same time ? |
Originally Posted by Spec'd
Nice writeup ... Why not pull the head and install some ARP headstuds
at the same time ? You can install head studs one at a time with the head on :) But thats another story |
on honda's before, i've used string instead of air to keep the valves in place. just put string into the cylinder through the spark plug hole till it covers the piston and crank the motor by hand till it presses the valves up, and leave enough string outside to pull it out when you're finished. then there's no need to pull the timing belt, but this method will work too, i just didn't always have access to a compressor.
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Originally Posted by hopper
You can install head studs one at a time with the head on :) But thats another story
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Originally Posted by hondafan
on honda's before, i've used string instead of air to keep the valves in place. just put string into the cylinder through the spark plug hole till it covers the piston and crank the motor by hand till it presses the valves up, and leave enough string outside to pull it out when you're finished. then there's no need to pull the timing belt, but this method will work too, i just didn't always have access to a compressor.
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Originally Posted by marksae
How can you rotate the engine to move the pistons if you leave the timing belt on? .
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After taking a good look under the hood ... It seems like you would be able
to save a lot of work and time by more or less using marksae's method of changing valve springs and retainers. It appears that removing the head would be alot of extra work. The main thing I find difficult is removing the head from a perfectly good running engine with 7600 miles on it. |
Nice write up, at what amount of psi does the piston start to move to bdc? So the compressed air will def. move the piston?
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Originally Posted by manOfaith
Nice write up, at what amount of psi does the piston start to move to bdc? So the compressed air will def. move the piston?
IMO, the risk of the piston moving on you while you're trying to change the springs and retainers is not worth it. If there was a sudden increase in volume, there could be enough of a pressure drop to cause your valves to fall into the combustion chamber. |
Originally Posted by Spec'd
(Post 3750318)
After taking a good look under the hood ... It seems like you would be able
to save a lot of work and time by more or less using marksae's method of changing valve springs and retainers. It appears that removing the head would be alot of extra work. |
lines, hoses, draining fluids, once the head is off you should really have it checked by a machine shop as well to make sure it's true.
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Here is one tip that is not mentioned in the writeup. When re-installing the keepers I found it MUCH easier to spread some axle grease on the keeper and on a small screwdriver to hold the keeper on while re-installing. It makes it much easer to position the keepers on the valve when they stick to it and makes it harder to drop them.
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ive done this install a few times already on a few evos. I dont think it is necessairy to pull the head to do this, and i do infact think it is a waste of time, however if you are doing headstuds pull the head. I have a homemade valve spring compressor and i am pretty tired of it. Miller sells the specific tool for 240 but I think that the push pull type spring compressor is going to be my next purchase :) Nice write up. I thought about doing it a while back.
Anthony |
just so you all know the universal valve spring compresor that he has list has been dicontinued,
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This tool http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog will save you tons of time. Much easier to use than a spring compressor. Nice write-up.
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