I was ok with the ends being welded on. I was less ok finding out that they're welded together in the middle when it broke in half.

I read that in the FSB thread - surprising, I'll take a look but I didn't notice anything that indicated it, so I guess it's a pretty smooth job they did there. hopefully I don't see the load you do, my car is pretty mild - can't imagine it breaking mid corner doing 80 or something though :eek:

Question regarding this FSB - I've got a 25.4mm hollow bar on my Mini for the rear, and the fact that it's hollow makes it roughly as stiff as a 22mm solid.

Was wondering if the case was the same with this tanabe bar? I haven't seen any specs on how much stiffer it is, but it must be pretty darn close to the stock fsb since it's hollow...

Also, can someone let me know where exactly on the bar it connects to the car? I want to add some McMaster carr tape on it

Hollow bars completely depends on the ID. Just by diameter (ignoring leg change), for your example the ID would be,


(25.4^4-22^4)^(1/4)=20.65".


Basically, Do^4 - Di^4 = Deq^4 or Do^4 - Deq^4 = Do^4 (because algebra)


BUT, just looking at diameters is bad swaybar math. The leg length also has a big role (what you adjust in an adjustable bar), as well as the angle of the leg (does it go straight to from the bushing to the end link or come out then turn).

Any update on the FSB difference?

Considering getting a Whiteline 26mm FSB while I do the clutch replacement.

MR Bilstein shocks / Robi spec springs / Super Pro bushings / RCK / Cusco adjustable sway bar mount
/ Rear trail arm bushing upgrade / 24mm RSB + mount bracket is only what I got,

Got H&R camber bolt to get -2.8 deg front camber / rear is -1.2 deg

Need to re-arrange my stock rear LSD plates in near future,
and ordered J-speed front fender brace.

After reading threads, seems like larger FSB is not good for tight corners / quick turn-in feel, but would benefit mid-high speed corer stability?

My local track is Inje Speedium, and it has quite a bit of altitude change (~130 ft), but mostly mid-high speed corners.

Hope to hear advice before ordering a whilteline FSB. :) Thanks!

What is the spring rate on the Robi springs? IMHO, you cant run both, a high rate suspension spring coupled w/a high rate FSB (its one or the other)

Most serious track guys choose to run just a high rate track spring w/the stock FSB w/adjustable endlinks.

Too much FSB rate coupled w/high spring rate, leads to severe understeer & the potential for lifting the inside front tire when cornering :crap:

Thanks for your reply.

I think it is about 20% higher rate + 1" drop for the front (although progressive),
and about same rate + 1" drop (w/ KYB shock, and maybe less than 1/4" drop w/ MR Bilstein) for the rear.

I don't think Robispec springs are "high rate" compared to most coilover setups.

I can still play a bit with Cusco adjustable sway bar bracket to 86% / 100% / 116% with the aftermarket FSB. :)

im bumping this - i'm considering going back to the stock FSB to counter some corner entry push I have on the car - did we ever determine how much stiffer is this than the stock FSB? If it's not much, I may just get ciro's fsb brackets that can go 15% softer on its soft setting. if I did either, what's the best way to help with the increased roll up front? add a few clicks of compression in the front shocks?

Hi Sam

Just commenting on adding compression. From my understanding, a single adjustable coilover is mainly a rebound adjustment with a combined compression movement (very slight). The upper adjustment knob is mainly REBOUND

Need Dallas to comment on the rate difference

If you don't want to swap your fsb then I would assume the next best thing would put your RSB to the stiffest, increase rebound on your rear and reduce a little up front.

If you dont have FSB adjustable bracket, certainly get or make some. Its super useful on any bar to have that adjustment range. Also, the cusco brackets can be swapped left to right and right to left which will give you an extra soft setting. So you could effectively get about 70% bar rate from what you have now with that change to see if you should have less front bar.

As for rate, Ive measured (by dimension and by load/displacement) the rear Tanabe bar but not the front. Cant seem to find a rate or rate difference from stock online in my quick search.

these? https://www.maperformance.com/produc...ishi-evo-8-9-x

i'm not sure what you mean by right to left and left to right

Yep, those. The brackets have a L and R stamped into it and 4 holes. 3 of the holes are meant for an 8/9 and shift over one set for the X. You can actually make use of that 4th hole as a low side adjustment point if you put the "R" stamped bracket on the left side of the car. It will certainly make more sense once you have it in the car though.

One bit of tip though, find some button head screws to replace the normal bracket bolts or the heads get in the way when putting the swaybar link nut on.

is that last tip only if they're flipped? otherwise i'm not quite visualizing the situation, but I'm willing to try the mildly softer setting first

Nope, doesnt matter if you flip or not. Two of the swaybar bracket holes just happen to line up with the mounting holes so it gets in the way of a socket to get on the nut. I will certainly make more sense once you do it.