That was a clear mistake on my end, nobody gave me the wrong information I just conveyed it wrong. I talked to Nick about it over the phone and I misunderstood what he was saying.

I think this was roughly 4-5 months ago when we discussed so I don't have the exact conversation stored in the ole' peanut tank. Like I said, it was a mistake on my end and apologize, I have since around December, mentioned to everyone I spoke to that Buschur uses Ibeams only.

I guess I was misinformed, lol. Sorry about that Chris, it wasn't a pun on you guys or anything, I just thought you didn't sell them any more. Bill told me at one point you didn't sell Buschur anymore, maybe I misunderstood or it changed since then. I also didn't see many if any, buschur parts under the X section last I checked.

Regardless, sorry about that.

So about how what power are typical "H", "I" and "X" beams suited for? Like one of the previous posts I don't think there's are reason to "over build" your car. Don't think I need rods capable of 300whp/cylinder (X beams) b/c there's no way in hell I'm ever going to break 500whp...I was told it's not neccesarily the amount of HP but rather the amount of TQ that effs these up. So what rods would be good for say 450wtq that won't really have a drop dead date on them since it's a daily driver???

Correct MAP sells our parts. I said nothing negative about them, I said to find out about our parts call us directly.

I asked Nick about the rods today, he was not aware of this thread. I asked him what rods we use, his answer to me was Manley TT's, I said, "What kind of beams do they have." He looked at me like I was retarded and said, "I beams."

I think NOT over building a shortblock is the stupidest thing anyone can do. Everyone's power goal when they start out is enough for 11.9's. Then it's 10.9's because you get bored quickly.............we build our engines so when you change your mind you can go 8's and leave it in the car.

^x2...the part price difference is minuscule compared to the effort/cost of installation.

I would just do the Manley TT's...pretty much the industry standard...or my other choice would be the MAP X beam rods...both are great and will do the job.

If you want to be baller the cosworth internals are solid too but i think manley and MAP rods are better.

Im running Wiseco Pistons and Wiseco Rods. I am making 400 on pump and 500 on E85 on a Garrett 3076. I think thats as far as I am willing to go for road course work but if I do go any further, I was wondering if anyone is on the Wiseco/Manley and what power they are making...

i just blew my engine a weekend , so this thread is became very handy now LOL

How did you blow your engine and what was the circumstances. Info like that helps prevent others from doing the same thing.

damn. little bit of drama in this thread.

so i am wondering, who thinks its worth while to go with the MAP X-beams instead of the Manley TT's because of the 7/16" rod studs instead of 3/8"?

^^^ +1

I chose this route for this reason. Though they are still bolts, not studs.

However I am going to say that the person who puts your engine to gether is at least as important as the parts you put in it.

motor-sport section.

well i will be putting it together.

what route did you choose?

I don't get why the H robs aren't good when they are rated up to 600whp? Like the op my goal ultimately is 450whp but FP red with cams and a built block so for the price and goal I thought these cams would be perfect!

Building an engine for 450 whp is stupid when it cost so little extra to build it for 1,000. We offer engines that will take you from stock to 8's, nobody ever says, "I want 450 whp" and sticks to that. They get bored and go up.