The "housing" for the bearing would be machined, possibly with the caliper mounts integrated. The ball joint mount would also be machined, then welded on. The strut mount and steering arm would be fabricated.
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
(Post 11724044)
::cool: :santa: {blob}
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Originally Posted by Nimpoc
(Post 11724938)
What's the story with these? I missed the thread...
R/TErnie got mad at me for "copying" him when I posted them on FB. Then he blocked me. |
Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
(Post 11724956)
There was no thread Then he blocked me.
Proud of you anyway for going through that detailed process of making those exacting bends & welds{thumbup} |
What about burying a spherical in there to give the top of the spring tip/tilt/rotation freedom like the Hypercoil mount, without the fluid?
Originally Posted by Dallas J
(Post 11720215)
Seems like the general group here is a bunch of makers and builders, here's a place to show off things you made not bought. Or maybe you have a killer idea and a napkin sketch for another maker to run with.
I'll start with something I think I need. I posted yesterday about bending a rear ohlin shock shaft. To reduce at least one source of bending load I'm going to make a coaxial spring perch. I measured a few things on the shock yesterday and replacing the lower spacer with a perch I can retain the boot keeper and will use up the excess thread between top bolt and adjuster. If I need a little more space, I can also remake the centering spacer shorter since its excessively tall. Simple, but should work perfect. https://i.imgur.com/NWtCmpd.jpg |
Originally Posted by Dallas J
(Post 11724112)
An upright weldment would be interesting, seems like there would be at least one machined part in the ball joint mount. Ive thought about doing my control arm as a tubular weldment but in the end I just like billet more.. More freedom of form.
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1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by Meathooker
we made sheetmetal welded spindles for our minibaja. it worked out well for what we did - but i'm not sure how much weight there is to be lost with that method.
I'm not saying Dallas's stuff is heavy, I'm just excited to see what Jordan can come up with when I have the money. |
Originally Posted by MinusPrevious
(Post 11724960)
Wut? Didnt know it came down to that. Its not like theres a Pat.Pending on that part. If someone wanted to make their own, why not?
Proud of you anyway for going through that detailed process of making those exacting bends & welds{thumbup} |
Its not that complicated of a part though. I'm sure Racefab and the several other companies that make them all look similar due to the simplicity of the part. And I thought you couldnt get them from prof awesome anymore but I'm not sure.
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Originally Posted by nollij
(Post 11725021)
His unhappiness stems from the notion that his part was copied and then the person copying the part is marketing and selling it.
Maybe if he had been willing sell me a set, I wouldn't have made my own and decided to sell them. These were made based off of the stock arm, and measurements that I myself took. His "design" was not copied. Further, maybe ford should be mad at chevy, since chevy makes cars, just like ford makes cars. Seeing as how out of the several people I've talked to feel I'm not in the wrong, I'm not too concerned about what R/TErnie thinks. Its not like I got my hands on a set of his arms, and built mine based off of that. Like what MAP has done to several Magnus products. What I've done here is quite different. |
Originally Posted by nollij
(Post 11725021)
His unhappiness stems from the notion that his part was copied and then the person copying the part is marketing and selling it.
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Originally Posted by kaj
(Post 11725054)
except they weren't copied.
I imagine there are cases where two people on opposite ends of the earth do come up with the same idea at the same time. But, that is not what happened here. Once, you see a solution, it is hard to see your own, original solution. |
Originally Posted by nollij
(Post 11725100)
Well... except all the other aftermarket variants use rod ends. R/T's uses a threaded ball joint similar to the one pictured on the last page (guessing it is a ball joint for a '68 chrysler as well since you have the same height issue). It IS a fairly simple part though.
I imagine there are cases where two people on opposite ends of the earth do come up with the same idea at the same time. But, that is not what happened here. Once, you see a solution, it is hard to see your own, original solution. there was only one solution, bend the bar so it goes around the wheel. Other than that you find ways to connect it to the car. You can choose on bushings and other OEM options or do race car stuff like everybody else does. None of us see how one person coming up with trailing arm that makes more clearance means they're the only person allowed to make one. |
I always wondered about stifness issues with using a simple bent tube for a trailing arm.. as any fore-aft movement there will induce toe changes..
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Originally Posted by nollij
(Post 11725100)
Well... except all the other aftermarket variants use rod ends. R/T's uses a threaded ball joint similar to the one pictured on the last page (guessing it is a ball joint for a '68 chrysler as well since you have the same height issue). It IS a fairly simple part though.
I imagine there are cases where two people on opposite ends of the earth do come up with the same idea at the same time. But, that is not what happened here. Once, you see a solution, it is hard to see your own, original solution. Maybe, if he had made his arms available, I wouldn't have made my own. That's how badly I wanted/needed a set of arms. I literally went and made my own. I sourced a ball joint, made my own measurements for wheel clearance, sourced a front bushing, drew them in solid works (fab guy did this), made a jig (also fab guy), and made arms (also fab guy). My fab guy never even saw a picture of R/TErnie's arms. Had I not used a thread ball joint, we probably would have machined a sleeve and ran press fit ball joints. Simply because ball joints last longer on a street car, and are less expensive to replace than a spherical bearing. All this because in November 2016, I talked him about getting a set, but he needed a group buy of 3 or 5. I couldn't really find anyone interested. I PM'ed him on FB again in January 2017 with no response. So, since I needed a trailing arm, I had my own made. Basically, your argument is invalid. Kiki, its a piece of 1" .120 wall 4130. I don't think it's going anywhere. |
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