heat and space...

Earlier Evos had the exhaust on the other side.

meh nothing some heat wrap can solve, and or a shield to protect the pump. Or even better do a center exit straight pipe :D

and use the exhaust for aero purposes like Formula 1. :D

could also spray/coat the muffler with something that expels the heat i suppose. i have that on my downpipe, it's pretty amazing

The pumps are not the most robust. Not sure they'd survive the exhaust heat even with thermal wrap. The line for the Evap canister (only found on usdm cars) is also exactly the same 5/16" hard line as the factory ACD. That's because it is the same line that JDM/eudm cars use for their rear mounted ACD. Mitsu were just reusing it for the Evap setup.

also, when the oil in the pump heats up, the chances are the pump pressure will drop below 15 bar.

While the pumps may be rated at 15bar, no tune Ive logged has ever shown more than 100psi.

true, but it will throw the error and shut down the pump. It is quite sensitive to fluid viscosity and if the tolerances get a bit loose, plus hot thin fluid, it will loose the pressure. I really would not run it anywhere near the exhaust.

i am pretty sure my superpro bushings (lca donut) are on their way out. has anyone had any luck with the whiteline kca469s? more or less a similar part. i've seen the kca400m, but wary of the nvh increase.

I have the 400's on the X, works great.

i heard they're a killer over sharp bumps, can fail pretty quick if you street drive a lot (i do), as well as unsmooth surfaces (really crappy lots, and bumpy curbing) - was looking at the 469s for a little more compliance.

So interesting testing this weekend. We had some really tight corners with digs and I was struggling hard with getting power down on exit with hopping. I have had a few ideas lately of another cause of corner exit and testing this weekend was good learning along with bringing up new questions and thoughts.

Ok, here is my idea of what at least my car is doing. Around apex, Im getting back on throttle heavily which I can do cause my rear diff is extra spicy. I most definitely have inside rear in the air and depending how tight the corner is, it can be very high. When I get on throttle the outside rear slips and lets the inside slam down which has a sudden increase in grip stopping the slide. That sudden increase in grip lets the outside catch and re-lift the inside along rebound pulling it up. That continues till the lateral load doesnt allow the outside to slip.

So the goal needs to be to lift a tire off throttle but have it quickly but gently set back down on throttle so both rear wheels are doing work and not lifting on throttle.

Over the weekend I dropped rear bar rate but before thinking about rebound potentially being a cause I was increasing to compensate trying to keep entry balance. The bar change was pretty much un noticed but the rebound definitely made hopping worse everywhere. I was like 2/24 clicks from full on the flags. So I dropped -12 from full rebound and the change was dramatic. Car was rotating under throttle but pretty much no feel change off throttle.

On my list of internal questions.

• How do keep minimal wheel lift off throttle, minimal rebound, but also have lift rotation?
• Can I drop rear bar a lot more to the point rear rebound can be increased for entry but have less effect on exit?
• Will bumping front rebound help with inside rear drop rate (if one corner goes down the other must come up)?
• Will Toe-in help with the outside rear slip/hop?

Im still convinced more rear spring is the answer, and toe-in will help that outside not slip as hard.

Next Steps:

• Put in softer bar that is similar at full stiff than current bar at full soft to play with going even softer
• Add 1/8" toe-in. Currently at 0.
• Play with significantly increased front rebound

What I have now is pretty dang good. Its easy to drive, and is just doing almost everything well. But theirs still room for improvement so Im always hunting for that next little bump knowing I have a baseline I can come back to.

Dallas have you tried trial & error using delrin packing with your bump rubber on the front shocks
to find the sweet spot of when to stop front diagonal nose dive ? Your tyre psi is the last cusion.

No because that would come into play with off throttle more than on throttle roll and that will just cause understeer especially on tight stuff where the force vector is promoting even more dive.

Im also pretty against using something like bump stops for controlling roll because they dont act like a spring and create step loading and in the front we definitely dont want that. Bump stops are great for saving things in a big bump but usually non-linear and naturally over damped.