If that ever does fail make sure to send out to one of use for dissection so we can reverse engineer it since no longer available. RIP

Yea, seriously. I miss that guy. He was the best.

But at this point I don't think he'd mind me sharing some details. Here's a video of the bearings in comparison to stock. I was shipping it back because the low drag seals (in blue) fell out after an off track excursion. In terms of drag the magic was mainly in the seals. In terms of the bearing life he said it was mainly in the grease used by Mitsubishi vs what Timken used for Curt's bearings. Timken was his partner in this project.

He always said "bearing guy" lol. But I'm still on his front's after 2 years as well. Out of the box I never got them to spin like that though, I assumed they needed breaking in. Subtle visual changes in his, the flat stud mounting surface isn't the same as oem, a bit thinner and there's welding discoloration at the center.

Alright folks, Throttle by wire (TBW) stuff starting and looking for a first round of feedback because some of you have thought through this stuff already. I'm planning EvoX throttle assy (I have the assy, will be making an adapter but saving that as a task when new 3d scanner gets here) and Bosch 68mm throttle body. Here's some bulleted thoughts, argue and critique away :)

• 68mm throttle body is bigger than stock 60mm, works out to be a great sizing for ported stock manifold. Seems no reason to go 60mm, and bigger than 68mm isn't necessary without going to a higher flow manifold which is outside the realm of this implementation
• O-ring on both sides cause RTV is lame. I spent a good bit of time tonight with O-ring calculators to get 25% crush on a 2.5mm o-ring and have 66-80% void fill and it looks pretty good. But I'm not an O-ring expert, just the minimal I've learned doing a few rounds of basic implementations
• EvoX pedal is arguably not as nice feeling as the GTR assembly (both readily available on Ebay and other sources) but EvoX is cheaper and easier to find. Evo pedal has very little damping force though it does match the feel of the stock cable assembly.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...6180418d54.jpg
So, what do ya'll think? Doesn't necessarily need to be for anyone but me, but if you were making choices for yourself what would you want?

Advantages?

I'd do the same, Bosch 68mm DBW with X pedal.

As far as o-rings go I don't mess around with math too much. There are charts online for gland dimensions to get adequate squish in pressure or vacuum conditions with any standard dash size o-ring I tend to favor standard dash sizes vs metric because they're readily available from tons of distributors in a variety of flavors and fairly cheap prices, unless you need something exotic. I also like to keep spares with me, because you'll never know when you may need one.

can we get cruise control? lol

All the good stuff. Rev Matching, ditching OEM IAC, Cruise Control, Throttle mapping, motion damping (throttle chop mid corner for example), Traction Control, etc...

Maybe we dont use all of this stuff, but once the hardware is in place any of these things are just configuring the ECU. 68mm TB is a nice little bump in area without being too aggressive.

Great point. I used an 80mm OD and 2.5mm dia O-ring and then used an online calculator to get the squish and void area right. That part wasnt hard but the availability of the 80mm O-ring certainly isnt as convenient as something a local hardware store might have. I'll see if I can find a common SAE size thats not to big diameter (something in the .100" range would be great).

now we're talking!

You had me at IAC.

-102 up to -170 are all 0.103" diameter.

Looks like 150 or 151 could work. I'll look up a groove size and see it fits well in the 84mm OD and 68mm ID sealing face. I do like the idea of locally available replacements for sure. Though I would certainly send with viton seals. Buna probably fine and locally more available but viton is nice upgrade.

There are other benefits too. Like throttle controlled safeties to save things in a safer way than cutting spark or fuel. Or using the throttle body position and timing in tandem to control power in an attempt to keep turbo spooled when moderate lifts of throttle are needed. But that gets into more advanced tuning thats above my head.

I'm not a fan at all of my X pedal's compared to the 9, especially in "position." You'd have to resolve that by getting it closer like the 9 is already, but again we'd have to see it mounted to know if that's an issue due to the upper mounts.

Tis why nasa bumped mechanical TB's this year, because at nationals people were doing all sorts of craziness with DBW.

With the new 3d scanner, my first project to start on it is to scan both stock and EvoX pedal assemblies to get the pedal range right. I don't know if the range of throw is the same between the two and the X looks like it really needs to have a good stop to not break the rigid plastic where the stock CT9A pedal just flexes.

I can scan the parts now with my current scanner but saving for some learning with the new one.

EDIT: Also talking with Myles, he prefers the GTR pedal assembly feel over EvoX. I think that's what's in the gringo teg. But I'm going to try and get one of those also to scan to see if that fits any better or the difference in feel. I think he said there's more damping in the pedal where the X is just sprung with pretty much no damping.

I went 68mm bosch e throttle, Initially i retrofitted a subaru legacy accelerator position sensor but it was a pain. Evo X pedal would have been far nicer. I have a pedalbox also and i used a rotary encoder sensor like a throttle body sensor now which is far more reliable.

Unless youve got a Motec or lyfe racing etc ecu you wont really gain much from it its more of a headache than anything. Throttle blip doesnt work properly with the run of the mill ecu companies e.g link haltech etc because you cant run 3d tables incorporating brake pressure and what not like you can with motec. Motec you can also adjust the throttle motor PID etc which link and haltech and what not dont allow you to do. Ive never managed to get throttle blip working properly on the link or haltech. So apart from possibly setting up cruise control ( which would be a pain as youd need to wire up buttons for it etc also which take up inputs in the ecu) and ditching factory idle control there isnt alot to gain from them.

Traction control would be possible but again youd need to wire all of your wheelspeed sensors up to the ecu in order to set it up which uses up precious inputs on your ecu. and i dont think it would be sophisticated TC like a Bosch unit or something would give you.


If i was to do it all again i would probably have stayed mechanical and worked out a way to get a cable up from my pedal box to the TB.