Headers
 

Hello I have both a 04 ralliart 2.4 manual and a 05 lancer es 2.0 auto and im trying to find out if headers for a 2.0 can be used on my 2.4?

How did you get on resolving this "minor" issue?

scheduled with asm, so officially going with ATS carbon hybrid 1-way front, 1.5-way rear, and sheepey csf radiator with spal fan.

i think that's gonna be it for now, maybe some minor weight reduction, but hopefully it nets me some decent time for 2021. not much else i'm looking to do for now.. baby steps. may bump up the front spring rate if things are a little too loose.

It is inherent in the design of the evo cooling system. Having the radiator cap on the "high pressure" side of the radiator will result in pushing coolant at high rpm, period. Read up on it here.
https://www.stewartcomponents.com/in...formation_id=9
https://www.stewartcomponents.com/in...ormation_id=11

Really what needs to be done is to do a cross flow, single pass radiator with an expansion tank (with the cap on the expansion tank) on the water pump inlet side of the radiator.

Good reads there. I knew about the downflow high pressure issue but to me it does seem interesting few discuss it here but we have lots of track cars.

This winter the plan is to get radiator rear mounted with using OEM water pump as long as it holds though that may be backwards from what you said. If the OEM pump pulls from the cool side of the radiator and feeds the motor, then we would be doing Pump - motor - hotside/expansion tank - cool side rad - back to pump.

put the expansion tank on the cool side of the rad. It makes a noticeable difference.

Dan lays things out pretty nicely in this article as well. I've been considering converting to evo 9 cooling and moving to a pressurized expansion tank on the lower tank as well.

https://professionalawesome.com/how-...nd-race-ready/

Wish I knew about that before pulling my head to replace the headgasket... It was only pushing coolant on track and everything I read on the forum said it was a hg failure and needed to be dealt with before serious damage to the head.
Oh well the valves were leaking like crazy anyway so not all is lost.

Where's the mood button.....Cyl 3 on left, cyl 4 on right. No I haven't looked past this yet. Crushing it on Friday's practice (Daytona btw), go into Qual laps Saturday morning, bounce through the bus-stop, mph wouldn't increase, power decrease, noise, oil spray on windshield from front catch can suddenly getting tons of oil and pressure. Bag of peanuts to the correct guess after teardown lol........AGAIN.....F**#*#(*$@#&($*#@&$(@*#$&@(#* &. The drysump was flawless except for the catch can location and it's smog effect, oil pressures were best I've ever seen. Me thinks mechanical failure. MAP SPEC 2.0 so I beams and 1400hd's......hard to think I actually stretched a rod at 300 whp.


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...bbb911afea.jpg

Bye bye piston^^^^^

Damn, dude. Sorry to hear...

Tuner thinks it could have "melted" instead of "crushed" since the diode is still there just based on the pic.

Maybe it leaned out for some reason and you melted the plug and lifted the head from detonation. Block might be okay.

Things like this make me want to order one of those snake camera things to see where you cant fit. Hope its just a plug and not the rest :crap:

that sucks man. from only 300whp?